WEBVTT 00:00:34.000 --> 00:00:35.480 Hello, viewers, 00:00:35.520 --> 00:00:38.920 you join me in an exciting place at a critical time. 00:00:38.960 --> 00:00:41.760 It is 5:45 in the morning. 00:00:41.840 --> 00:00:46.600 I am in a land that is equally fascinating and baffling; 00:00:46.640 --> 00:00:49.400 a country that is charming and hospitable, 00:00:49.440 --> 00:00:52.920 but where we from the West tread in fear and trepidation, 00:00:52.960 --> 00:00:55.640 believing that the slightest transgression of good etiquette 00:00:55.680 --> 00:00:59.120 is like slapping somebody's sainted mother in the face. 00:00:59.160 --> 00:01:01.560 It's a country I've been to many times before 00:01:01.600 --> 00:01:04.120 but never really understood. 00:01:04.160 --> 00:01:07.360 So join me over six episodes 00:01:07.400 --> 00:01:10.000 as I explore the enduring mystery 00:01:10.040 --> 00:01:13.520 that is the land of this... 00:01:17.920 --> 00:01:19.680 Which was supposed to be the rising sun, 00:01:19.720 --> 00:01:22.120 but it hasn't really worked out, has it? 00:01:22.160 --> 00:01:23.760 It's a good job it didn't look like that 00:01:23.800 --> 00:01:25.480 when they named Japan, otherwise it would be 00:01:25.520 --> 00:01:29.320 the Land of the Gray Overcast. 00:01:29.360 --> 00:01:31.840 The flag would be rubbish. 00:01:47.880 --> 00:01:50.400 We all know travelogues: 00:01:50.440 --> 00:01:52.840 beautiful views, tranquil music, 00:01:52.880 --> 00:01:55.080 exquisite local food, 00:01:55.120 --> 00:01:56.640 some traditional dress, 00:01:56.680 --> 00:01:58.640 and the presenter saying something charming 00:01:58.680 --> 00:02:00.080 and English to a local. 00:02:00.120 --> 00:02:02.520 Are you mad? 00:02:02.560 --> 00:02:05.280 And we all think we sort of know Japan. 00:02:05.320 --> 00:02:07.920 Cherry blossom, very busy crossroads, 00:02:07.960 --> 00:02:09.480 kei cars, samurai, 00:02:09.520 --> 00:02:11.520 and seizure-inducing animations. 00:02:11.560 --> 00:02:12.920 I've got a part, owing to my excellent 00:02:12.960 --> 00:02:14.160 Japanese language skills. 00:02:14.400 --> 00:02:15.480 I'm a dog. 00:02:19.800 --> 00:02:22.240 But dig a little deeper, 00:02:22.280 --> 00:02:24.960 and from the most tranquil vistas 00:02:25.000 --> 00:02:27.240 to the most built-up metropoles, 00:02:27.280 --> 00:02:29.320 there is unearthed a fascinating land 00:02:29.360 --> 00:02:31.440 of contradictions: 00:02:31.440 --> 00:02:33.040 the ancient clashing with the new. 00:02:33.080 --> 00:02:34.680 The courteous meeting 00:02:34.720 --> 00:02:36.360 - the furious. 00:02:36.400 --> 00:02:38.240 The musical and the karaoke. 00:02:38.240 --> 00:02:39.680 The microscopic... 00:02:39.720 --> 00:02:41.080 If I clean your ears, 00:02:41.120 --> 00:02:42.960 the video inside of your ears 00:02:43.200 --> 00:02:44.880 is displayed on your iPhone. 00:02:45.120 --> 00:02:48.600 - Isn't that fantastic? - No. 00:02:48.640 --> 00:02:50.080 ...and the ginormous. 00:02:50.320 --> 00:02:53.720 This is the weirdest thing I've ever driven. 00:02:53.760 --> 00:02:56.000 James, I'm coming to shoot you. 00:02:56.040 --> 00:02:56.940 Yes! 00:02:57.240 --> 00:03:00.760 ...traveling by land, sea, air, 00:03:00.800 --> 00:03:02.320 - and go-kart... 00:03:02.360 --> 00:03:05.360 ...as I journey from Japan's icy north 00:03:05.400 --> 00:03:08.720 all the way to its balmy south. 00:03:08.760 --> 00:03:10.440 A British bloke trying to fit in. 00:03:10.480 --> 00:03:12.560 I can't, I feel like a pervert. 00:03:12.600 --> 00:03:14.720 - Literally risking my life... 00:03:16.420 --> 00:03:18.060 Traveling is kind of 00:03:18.100 --> 00:03:21.060 getting me excited. Mmm-mmm-mmm. 00:03:22.380 --> 00:03:24.780 Forwards to Tokyo. 00:03:24.820 --> 00:03:27.460 Plus, yes, some beautiful views. 00:03:29.660 --> 00:03:32.140 A bit of exquisite local food... 00:03:32.180 --> 00:03:33.780 Oh, Jesus Christ. 00:03:33.820 --> 00:03:36.500 ...and traditional-ish dress. 00:03:38.620 --> 00:03:40.860 In advance. 00:03:43.260 --> 00:03:44.580 Right, well, you've seen all the good bits now, 00:03:44.620 --> 00:03:47.780 so here's me driving down a road. 00:03:48.940 --> 00:03:50.820 My actual purpose in coming here, 00:03:50.860 --> 00:03:52.220 because I'm fascinated by the place, 00:03:52.260 --> 00:03:54.500 is not to simply look at all the tourist sites 00:03:54.500 --> 00:03:56.380 and go, "Ooh, isn't that lovely" 00:03:56.420 --> 00:03:57.940 and "isn't that unusual." 00:03:58.020 --> 00:03:59.580 It's to actually find out 00:03:59.620 --> 00:04:02.940 what Japan and being Japanese is about, 00:04:03.020 --> 00:04:05.780 because it is quite possibly 00:04:05.820 --> 00:04:10.500 the most "abroad" place you can go as a British person. 00:04:10.580 --> 00:04:14.820 Everything about it is slightly alien, 00:04:14.860 --> 00:04:19.140 slightly surprising, and, dare I say it, confusing. 00:04:19.180 --> 00:04:23.260 In the interests of that, I've decided not to start 00:04:23.300 --> 00:04:27.260 at the busy Shibuya Junction, or cooing over Mount Fuji, 00:04:27.300 --> 00:04:29.140 or even buying ladies' panties from a vending machine 00:04:29.180 --> 00:04:31.220 in a dark alley. 00:04:31.260 --> 00:04:33.820 Instead, I'm starting here. 00:04:33.860 --> 00:04:37.500 The icy, northernmost island of Hokkaido. 00:04:37.580 --> 00:04:39.220 If somebody mentions Japan, 00:04:39.260 --> 00:04:43.940 you don't really think of this vast, snowy emptiness. 00:04:45.340 --> 00:04:47.580 Now, Hokkaido has only actually been 00:04:47.620 --> 00:04:50.300 part of Japan for the last 150 years or so. 00:04:50.340 --> 00:04:54.820 It's about 20% of the land mass of the whole country, 00:04:54.860 --> 00:04:56.940 but only has five percent of its population. 00:04:57.020 --> 00:05:00.860 A lot of it looks like this and is very, very pretty. 00:05:03.020 --> 00:05:06.700 Amazingly, Hokkaido sits at the same latitude 00:05:06.740 --> 00:05:08.820 as the south of France, 00:05:08.860 --> 00:05:11.140 which is what I'm telling myself 00:05:11.180 --> 00:05:12.860 as I leave the heated seat of my car 00:05:12.900 --> 00:05:15.220 to deliver a long piece to camera 00:05:15.260 --> 00:05:18.860 with rapidly retreating * 00:05:18.900 --> 00:05:20.500 Now bear with me on this one. 00:05:20.540 --> 00:05:23.620 In 1957 there was a Japanese expedition 00:05:23.660 --> 00:05:26.460 to Antarctica using dogs and sleds. 00:05:26.500 --> 00:05:28.500 Now, the expedition was a disaster. 00:05:28.540 --> 00:05:31.140 It had to be abandoned and the dogs were left behind. 00:05:31.180 --> 00:05:33.220 When another expedition went out a year later, 00:05:33.260 --> 00:05:35.100 they found, amazingly, 00:05:35.140 --> 00:05:38.060 that two of them were still alive. 00:05:38.100 --> 00:05:41.060 Those two dogs became national heroes of Japan. 00:05:41.100 --> 00:05:44.580 And as a result of that, it became fashionable in Japan 00:05:44.620 --> 00:05:46.500 to own a husky-type dog. 00:05:46.540 --> 00:05:48.460 And as a result of that, the leisure sport 00:05:48.500 --> 00:05:51.180 of dogsledding returned to Japan. 00:05:51.220 --> 00:05:54.860 I've come here to this, uh, remote part of Hokkaido 00:05:54.900 --> 00:05:58.060 where they do dogsledding using a descendant 00:05:58.100 --> 00:06:00.380 of the Russian version of the sleigh dog, 00:06:00.420 --> 00:06:03.420 known as the Ruski Huskiski. 00:06:03.460 --> 00:06:05.580 And let's be honest, what could be better than this? 00:06:05.620 --> 00:06:08.780 This beautiful scenery, the silence of a sledge. 00:06:08.820 --> 00:06:12.340 It's gonna be like being Prokofiev, it'll be fabulous. 00:06:22.100 --> 00:06:24.420 Right, James, only one in a million people 00:06:24.460 --> 00:06:26.220 will get that reference to Prokofiev at the end. 00:06:26.260 --> 00:06:28.260 Well, they might just think, "There goes James being 00:06:28.300 --> 00:06:30.420 a bit pompous and intellectual again." 00:06:32.140 --> 00:06:34.020 Am I being pompous and intellectual? 00:06:34.060 --> 00:06:35.460 Nobody's ever said that about... well, they've said pompous, 00:06:35.500 --> 00:06:36.900 but they haven't said intellectual. 00:06:36.940 --> 00:06:38.300 Am I being pompous and intellectual, viewers? 00:06:38.340 --> 00:06:40.060 Press the red button now. 00:06:41.420 --> 00:06:43.060 I am. 00:06:43.100 --> 00:06:44.580 Well, all right, shall we just do the end bit again then 00:06:44.620 --> 00:06:47.980 and I'll say it's gonna be like being... 00:06:48.020 --> 00:06:50.700 It's gonna be like being Raymond Briggs. 00:06:50.740 --> 00:06:53.140 What about Elsa from Frozen? 00:06:53.180 --> 00:06:56.380 What? 00:06:56.420 --> 00:06:59.020 I decided to let it go. 00:06:59.060 --> 00:07:01.180 Helping me learn the ropes 00:07:01.220 --> 00:07:04.220 is local sled-head Mr. Terada. 00:07:09.860 --> 00:07:11.220 Not too much brake. 00:07:16.420 --> 00:07:18.460 I can't ski. 00:07:18.500 --> 00:07:22.380 As Terada-san releases the hounds, I try 00:07:22.420 --> 00:07:24.340 desperately to remember the crash course he's given me. 00:07:24.380 --> 00:07:26.940 Irony noted. 00:07:26.980 --> 00:07:28.460 I stand on here. 00:07:28.500 --> 00:07:29.980 If it's going slowly, I can stand like that, 00:07:30.020 --> 00:07:32.060 but if it's accelerating or going around bends, 00:07:32.100 --> 00:07:34.260 I've got to crouch, a bit like a pooping dog, 00:07:34.300 --> 00:07:36.380 and move my weight like that. 00:07:36.420 --> 00:07:39.300 And if you come and have a look at this, 00:07:39.340 --> 00:07:42.900 when you start panicking, there is a brake, 00:07:42.940 --> 00:07:45.420 which is sort of two paddles that go down into the snow, 00:07:45.460 --> 00:07:48.940 so I can stamp on that panic and squeal like a girl. 00:07:48.980 --> 00:07:51.420 And the words I need to know are "Daru," 00:07:51.460 --> 00:07:52.860 that's the name of the lead dog. 00:07:52.900 --> 00:07:54.940 Hai. 00:07:55.980 --> 00:07:58.580 That meant "go." 00:07:58.620 --> 00:08:01.900 Whoa, that's tr... 00:08:03.020 --> 00:08:04.940 That's a lot faster than I expected. 00:08:13.540 --> 00:08:15.540 Oh, whoa. 00:08:20.820 --> 00:08:22.780 I wasn't expecting that bit. 00:08:25.340 --> 00:08:28.100 Can you go a bit slower? 00:08:28.140 --> 00:08:30.100 - Put the brake on. - Oh, put the brake on. 00:08:30.140 --> 00:08:31.580 Okay. 00:08:34.420 --> 00:08:36.340 Oh, God, there's a bendy bit coming up. 00:08:37.700 --> 00:08:38.980 Can't steer! 00:08:39.020 --> 00:08:42.140 Whoa! 00:08:42.180 --> 00:08:43.740 Whoa! 00:08:47.020 --> 00:08:48.700 Sorry. 00:08:55.980 --> 00:08:59.900 Eventually, though, my runnings finally started becoming cool. 00:09:00.940 --> 00:09:02.740 Right. 00:09:06.420 --> 00:09:09.140 So, I don't know how these relatively small dogs 00:09:09.180 --> 00:09:12.220 pull this enormous sled with big fat me on it. 00:09:13.220 --> 00:09:14.580 Whoa! 00:09:18.060 --> 00:09:21.020 This is exhausting. 00:09:21.060 --> 00:09:22.660 I wish I had more time 00:09:22.700 --> 00:09:25.340 to appreciate the lovely scenery here, 00:09:25.340 --> 00:09:28.140 but I'm desperately trying to hang onto this bloody thing. 00:09:28.180 --> 00:09:30.020 Hai, hai, hai! 00:09:30.060 --> 00:09:33.340 Go wide, in Japanese. 00:09:34.580 --> 00:09:36.180 Whoa. 00:09:36.220 --> 00:09:39.340 I'm using a little bit of braking... whoa, whoa, whoa! 00:09:46.060 --> 00:09:48.340 Stop, stop, stop! 00:09:48.420 --> 00:09:49.980 - Stopped. - Oh, very nice. 00:09:52.340 --> 00:09:53.980 - Okay. Yes. - Change, change. 00:09:54.020 --> 00:09:55.420 Here, have... 00:09:56.660 --> 00:09:59.580 Geez, that's the... 00:09:59.660 --> 00:10:01.660 that's the hardest thing I've ever done. 00:10:04.420 --> 00:10:07.220 Cut. 00:10:10.100 --> 00:10:14.820 Here come the rest of the crew in the luxury of a Ski-Doo. 00:10:14.860 --> 00:10:17.460 Oh, well done, everyone. 00:10:23.140 --> 00:10:27.100 They didn't even stop to say congratulations. 00:10:27.140 --> 00:10:28.900 It may have escaped your attention, 00:10:28.940 --> 00:10:31.100 but high-octane physical activity 00:10:31.140 --> 00:10:33.820 is not my cup of matcha. 00:10:33.860 --> 00:10:37.340 Fortunately, though, I have many other thrilling interests 00:10:37.380 --> 00:10:39.420 that I'm eager to share. 00:10:39.460 --> 00:10:42.900 Now I'd like to talk to you for a moment about Japanese poetry. 00:10:42.940 --> 00:10:46.500 But don't be alarmed, I'm merely going to talk about the haiku, 00:10:46.540 --> 00:10:49.660 a very classical ancient Japanese form, 00:10:49.700 --> 00:10:51.100 a very simple form of poetry. 00:10:51.140 --> 00:10:54.340 And each haiku has multiple meanings. 00:10:54.380 --> 00:10:58.340 The most widely accepted form is a line of five syllables, 00:10:58.380 --> 00:11:01.540 a line of seven and then a line of five, 00:11:01.580 --> 00:11:03.980 such as, "Fleecy little lamb 00:11:04.020 --> 00:11:06.340 "Leaps and bounds into the spring 00:11:06.380 --> 00:11:08.060 I see a jumper." 00:11:08.100 --> 00:11:09.860 We're going to head off to a quiet, 00:11:09.900 --> 00:11:12.020 sort of snowy knoll somewhere, 00:11:12.060 --> 00:11:14.540 and I'm going to read one to you. 00:11:22.500 --> 00:11:25.300 "When I think of it as my snow 00:11:25.340 --> 00:11:26.700 "How light it is 00:11:26.740 --> 00:11:28.740 On my bamboo hat." 00:11:30.620 --> 00:11:32.380 Nice, isn't it? 00:11:32.420 --> 00:11:33.980 Actually, should I try and write 00:11:34.020 --> 00:11:35.820 a few haiku of my own on this trip? 00:11:35.860 --> 00:11:38.260 Because that would be quite an interesting challenge. 00:11:38.300 --> 00:11:40.300 You could even write a haiku 00:11:40.340 --> 00:11:42.300 to sum up the entire trip at the end. 00:11:42.340 --> 00:11:44.020 One haiku for the whole thing. 00:11:44.060 --> 00:11:45.660 Well, that's actually what haiku are for, 00:11:45.700 --> 00:11:47.340 because if they're written properly, 00:11:47.380 --> 00:11:50.180 they're so laden with meaning that they can explain 00:11:50.220 --> 00:11:53.500 the whole human condition in five, seven and five syllables. 00:11:53.540 --> 00:11:55.180 Should be a breeze. 00:11:55.220 --> 00:11:58.180 Let's try it. We'll have a few practice haiku on the way. 00:12:00.780 --> 00:12:03.660 Thank you very much. That's the end of double poetry. 00:12:04.740 --> 00:12:07.100 Haiku scene over. 00:12:07.140 --> 00:12:11.580 First city of trip beckons, named Obihiro. 00:12:13.940 --> 00:12:17.340 I say "city," but by Japanese standards, 00:12:17.380 --> 00:12:22.060 with a piffling 169,000 people, it's practically a hamlet. 00:12:22.100 --> 00:12:25.900 Still, having so far met mainly dogs, 00:12:25.940 --> 00:12:29.540 I'm rather keen to find the local boozer. 00:12:32.660 --> 00:12:34.420 These are yatai. 00:12:34.460 --> 00:12:36.900 They're a sort of Japanese friendship concept, if you like. 00:12:36.940 --> 00:12:38.500 Most towns have them. 00:12:38.540 --> 00:12:41.100 In warmer towns, they're usually just a canopy. 00:12:41.140 --> 00:12:44.580 Here, in Hokkaido, because it is cold, they are huts. 00:12:44.620 --> 00:12:49.380 And each one of them is a miniature restaurant and bar, 00:12:49.420 --> 00:12:51.620 and you can go there with your mates or you can go there 00:12:51.660 --> 00:12:53.940 as a couple or you can also, as I'm going to, 00:12:53.980 --> 00:12:56.300 go there on your own because you're lonely, 00:12:56.340 --> 00:12:57.900 maybe a bit depressed. 00:12:57.940 --> 00:13:00.260 The people who are in there will be friendly, 00:13:00.300 --> 00:13:02.460 you snuggle up to them. It's very, very intimate. 00:13:02.500 --> 00:13:07.900 So I'm going to try, since we've just arrived at it... this one. 00:13:14.820 --> 00:13:18.100 - Konbanwa. -May I? 00:13:18.140 --> 00:13:20.860 Excellent. 00:13:20.900 --> 00:13:22.460 As with most social gatherings, 00:13:22.500 --> 00:13:25.420 my entrance is met with laughter. 00:13:27.380 --> 00:13:30.060 I'm now going to use my very formal beginner's Japanese 00:13:30.100 --> 00:13:31.460 to ask for a beer. 00:13:31.500 --> 00:13:32.740 I say... 00:13:34.460 --> 00:13:36.860 Onegaishimasu! 00:13:44.940 --> 00:13:46.340 - Ah, arigato. -Thank you. 00:13:46.380 --> 00:13:48.340 Cheers. 00:13:48.380 --> 00:13:50.580 Kanpai! 00:13:56.900 --> 00:13:59.500 Because I've already exhausted my Japanese, I'm going to resort 00:13:59.540 --> 00:14:00.980 to technology. 00:14:01.020 --> 00:14:04.580 Tonight I am very hungry. 00:14:07.460 --> 00:14:09.820 - Oh! - Okay. 00:14:09.860 --> 00:14:13.620 The second stick translates back into English. 00:14:18.620 --> 00:14:21.620 Fantastic. How good is that? 00:14:21.660 --> 00:14:24.180 Let's see if this works back to front, so... 00:14:24.220 --> 00:14:28.580 Tonight, I am very hungry. 00:14:36.660 --> 00:14:38.660 "Divorce tonight"? 00:14:38.700 --> 00:14:39.700 What is it? 00:14:39.740 --> 00:14:41.580 Technology is rubbish. 00:14:43.140 --> 00:14:44.420 Oh, forget those. 00:14:47.380 --> 00:14:49.380 Shut up. 00:14:53.420 --> 00:14:55.100 Despite the communication problems, 00:14:55.140 --> 00:14:57.020 we're getting on rather well. 00:14:57.060 --> 00:15:02.380 And this tiny, warm restaurant is a cramped haven, 00:15:02.420 --> 00:15:05.860 especially as it tragically can't fit most of the crew. 00:15:05.900 --> 00:15:08.180 - Oh, is it origami? - Origami. 00:15:08.220 --> 00:15:09.540 Oh, origami. Oh, okay, uh... 00:15:09.580 --> 00:15:11.460 - Origami, origami. - Okay. 00:15:11.500 --> 00:15:13.580 I'm five and a half thousand miles 00:15:13.620 --> 00:15:16.740 from home, a stranger in a strange land. 00:15:16.780 --> 00:15:19.140 Which way up is it, that way? 00:15:19.180 --> 00:15:20.340 No, that way. 00:15:23.180 --> 00:15:27.060 But here in the yatai, I feel among friends. 00:15:27.100 --> 00:15:29.460 Oh, no, you're too generous. 00:15:31.940 --> 00:15:34.860 Obviously, I'm not really alone. I have my crew and so on. 00:15:34.900 --> 00:15:36.860 But if you really were traveling around, 00:15:36.900 --> 00:15:39.580 and you were completely on your own of an evening, 00:15:39.620 --> 00:15:42.020 it's so intimate and so close, 00:15:42.060 --> 00:15:44.420 that you have to, you have to talk to the other people 00:15:44.460 --> 00:15:46.460 and have a nice time. 00:15:46.500 --> 00:15:48.460 It's great. 00:15:48.500 --> 00:15:50.340 - This is for you. - Thank you. 00:15:54.180 --> 00:15:56.340 - Sam, this is for you. - Oh, great. 00:15:56.380 --> 00:15:57.580 Actually, it's James. 00:15:59.460 --> 00:16:00.700 I will treasure that. 00:16:02.140 --> 00:16:03.540 I didn't realize I was so funny 00:16:03.580 --> 00:16:06.300 until I came to Japan. 00:16:13.500 --> 00:16:16.060 After my state-of-the-art translation tech 00:16:16.100 --> 00:16:19.380 failed me last night, I've decided to go analog. 00:16:19.420 --> 00:16:22.580 - Just great. Please. - Thank you, thank you. 00:16:22.620 --> 00:16:24.540 Please welcome, now accompanying me on my voyage, 00:16:24.580 --> 00:16:25.940 Masayo. 00:16:25.980 --> 00:16:27.780 Good morning, everybody. 00:16:27.820 --> 00:16:29.260 This is Masayo-san. 00:16:29.300 --> 00:16:30.660 - Konnichiwa. - Konnichiwa. 00:16:30.700 --> 00:16:32.940 And she's my guide. 00:16:36.780 --> 00:16:39.180 I can only say... 00:16:44.220 --> 00:16:46.100 And... 00:16:47.500 --> 00:16:48.660 - That's correct? - Yes. Yes, and... 00:16:53.140 --> 00:16:55.620 And I can say "onegaishimas." 00:16:58.740 --> 00:17:02.900 So I say... 00:17:02.940 --> 00:17:04.340 That's it, for a beer. 00:17:04.380 --> 00:17:06.620 - Fantastic. - That's the most important thing. 00:17:06.660 --> 00:17:09.700 Masayo wants to show me another Japanese take 00:17:09.740 --> 00:17:11.700 on a traditional winter activity, 00:17:11.740 --> 00:17:14.020 and she seems like a civilized type, 00:17:14.020 --> 00:17:17.340 so it's probably something like building a snowman. 00:17:21.900 --> 00:17:24.260 Oh. 00:17:24.260 --> 00:17:26.420 In fact, it's the world's most regulated 00:17:26.460 --> 00:17:28.980 and violent snowball fight. 00:17:31.620 --> 00:17:34.500 Apparently, here in Hokkaido, they've turned snowballs 00:17:34.580 --> 00:17:36.860 into a fully-fledged team sport, 00:17:36.900 --> 00:17:39.500 with strictly controlled snowball sizes, 00:17:39.580 --> 00:17:41.740 contact rules, leagues, uniforms, 00:17:41.780 --> 00:17:44.380 - stadiums and referees. 00:17:44.420 --> 00:17:46.260 The rules... as I'm sure you'll want to play along at home... 00:17:46.340 --> 00:17:49.620 each seven-player team can use up to 90 regulation snowballs 00:17:49.660 --> 00:17:53.580 per round to hit the other team or capture their flag. 00:17:53.620 --> 00:17:55.700 Oh, I see, the people at the back roll the snowballs 00:17:55.740 --> 00:17:59.180 to the forwards, we'd probably call them. 00:17:59.220 --> 00:18:02.780 - It's best of three, and if you take a hit, you're out. - 00:18:05.020 --> 00:18:10.020 Yukigassen means yuki: snow, gassen: war or fight. 00:18:10.020 --> 00:18:12.620 And I'd never heard of it. Maybe you haven't, either. 00:18:12.660 --> 00:18:15.660 But, anyway, can we bring the teams out, please, coach? 00:18:17.900 --> 00:18:20.260 Shigo! 00:18:20.260 --> 00:18:22.260 Shigo. Shigo? 00:18:22.260 --> 00:18:23.700 - "Get together." - "Get together." 00:18:29.780 --> 00:18:31.260 But Masayo's surprise 00:18:31.260 --> 00:18:32.900 doesn't stop there. 00:18:35.260 --> 00:18:37.740 - You want me to play? - Yes, please. 00:18:37.780 --> 00:18:41.020 Please, please enjoy snow-snowball fighting tonight. 00:18:41.020 --> 00:18:43.020 Yeah, I'm sure I'll love it. 00:18:47.100 --> 00:18:49.660 Oh, James, you look so nice. 00:18:49.700 --> 00:18:51.900 - Do I? - You look like a sportsman. 00:18:51.940 --> 00:18:55.420 - Thank you very much - You can do that. Okay? 00:18:57.260 --> 00:19:00.020 Here's a ball from the la... the la... 00:19:00.020 --> 00:19:02.380 - It's rea... it's very hard. - Very, very hard. 00:19:02.420 --> 00:19:03.940 - Very hard. - Feel that. 00:19:03.980 --> 00:19:06.460 - Yeah, it's kind of a ice ball. - Throw it at me. 00:19:06.500 --> 00:19:08.940 Yeah, It's quite hard. 00:19:10.260 --> 00:19:12.220 It's quite small. 00:19:17.180 --> 00:19:19.780 To make this even more schoolyard, 00:19:19.860 --> 00:19:22.900 we're doing boys against the girls. 00:19:22.940 --> 00:19:26.220 Which probably means we fancy them, but we're too shy to say. 00:19:37.260 --> 00:19:39.780 Be careful, be careful. Be careful! 00:19:39.860 --> 00:19:40.980 Come on, James! 00:19:42.660 --> 00:19:43.900 You can throw ball. 00:19:43.940 --> 00:19:45.500 James, go! 00:19:45.580 --> 00:19:47.900 James, go for it! Go for it! 00:19:47.940 --> 00:19:50.900 I'm starting to think Masayo might be a bit of a sadist. 00:19:50.940 --> 00:19:53.460 What are you doing? It's terrible. 00:19:54.500 --> 00:19:56.260 What are you doing? 00:19:57.140 --> 00:19:59.340 Don't let me down! 00:20:01.180 --> 00:20:04.220 I'm hit, which means I'm out. 00:20:04.260 --> 00:20:06.260 As one of my teammates makes very clear. 00:20:06.260 --> 00:20:08.220 You're terrible. 00:20:08.260 --> 00:20:10.860 You're terrible. 00:20:10.900 --> 00:20:12.980 James! Come on! 00:20:13.020 --> 00:20:14.500 I d... I didn't see it coming. 00:20:14.500 --> 00:20:18.020 - James, come on. - Oh, I'm sorry. 00:20:18.020 --> 00:20:19.500 - That's your fault. - I know it's my... 00:20:19.500 --> 00:20:22.580 Because of you, your team lost the first game. 00:20:22.620 --> 00:20:26.140 Look, the Japanese way is to elevate the achievements 00:20:26.180 --> 00:20:28.660 of others while diminishing your own. 00:20:28.700 --> 00:20:30.740 - I know, but... - That was a bit rubbish... 00:20:30.780 --> 00:20:32.500 - That's your fault. - It was my fault, yes. 00:20:32.580 --> 00:20:35.020 You should not... should not be coward. 00:20:35.100 --> 00:20:36.500 - Okay? - Not be...? 00:20:36.500 --> 00:20:37.700 Not be coward. 00:20:37.740 --> 00:20:39.420 - Covered? - Coward. 00:20:39.460 --> 00:20:41.980 Sorry, do you mean "covered" or "coward"? 00:20:42.020 --> 00:20:43.580 Coward! 00:20:43.620 --> 00:20:45.340 - Coward! - I mean coward. 00:20:45.380 --> 00:20:46.340 Scared. 00:20:46.380 --> 00:20:48.740 Yeah. You shouldn't be scared. 00:20:48.780 --> 00:20:50.780 I wasn't scared, I'm just too big, and they could... 00:20:50.860 --> 00:20:53.020 I stuck out from behind the... 00:20:53.020 --> 00:20:54.980 Don't tell me that excuse. 00:20:55.020 --> 00:20:57.700 - Okay. -The next set you should do the best. 00:20:57.740 --> 00:21:00.580 - Okay, next time I will do better. - Okay. 00:21:00.620 --> 00:21:02.700 - Please trust me. - I do. 00:21:02.740 --> 00:21:06.260 - Please don't let me down. - I won't let you down. 00:21:06.260 --> 00:21:08.620 That's like my mother telling me she's disappointed in me. 00:21:08.660 --> 00:21:11.260 It's terrible. 00:21:11.260 --> 00:21:14.020 Right. Stand by. 00:21:14.100 --> 00:21:16.940 My team lost the first set, no small thanks to me. 00:21:16.980 --> 00:21:19.420 So if we lose again, that's it. 00:21:22.260 --> 00:21:24.180 A near miss. 00:21:24.220 --> 00:21:26.100 I like to think that the problem is 00:21:26.140 --> 00:21:28.260 that I'm much taller than the average player, 00:21:28.300 --> 00:21:30.940 not that I'm a bit fat. 00:21:32.420 --> 00:21:34.060 - Oh, I got one! - Very nice. 00:21:34.100 --> 00:21:35.860 - James, go, go! - Go, go! 00:21:35.900 --> 00:21:40.060 Go, go, go, go! Very nice. Go, go. 00:21:40.100 --> 00:21:43.380 I fight tooth and nail. 00:21:44.700 --> 00:21:46.660 But pinned down and screaming for help... 00:21:46.700 --> 00:21:48.540 Where are they? 00:21:48.580 --> 00:21:50.500 James, be careful, be careful! 00:21:51.900 --> 00:21:53.820 I'm hit again. 00:21:53.860 --> 00:21:55.420 Oh, my. Oh, my. 00:22:02.220 --> 00:22:03.820 - Finished, finished. - Who won? 00:22:05.420 --> 00:22:06.740 - Did they? - You lost. 00:22:06.780 --> 00:22:08.620 Oh. 00:22:10.260 --> 00:22:12.540 Thank you. Domo arigato. 00:22:14.740 --> 00:22:16.780 Well, to be honest, I thought it might be a bit pony, 00:22:16.820 --> 00:22:19.020 but it's actually really good. 00:22:19.060 --> 00:22:21.380 It's quite frightening. And it does make a hell of a racket 00:22:21.420 --> 00:22:23.700 when it hits you on the helmet. 00:22:23.740 --> 00:22:24.980 But, um, uh, 00:22:25.020 --> 00:22:28.260 Domo arigato gozaimashita. 00:22:28.300 --> 00:22:30.780 Very, very good game. 00:22:30.820 --> 00:22:34.980 So the red team, the men's team, lost by one hit. 00:22:35.020 --> 00:22:37.940 One person out. That person was knocked out in the first round, 00:22:37.980 --> 00:22:39.580 the only person knocked out of the men's team 00:22:39.620 --> 00:22:41.700 in the first round, and it was me. 00:22:41.740 --> 00:22:45.340 - Yes, it's your fault. - Okay? It's my fault, yes. 00:22:45.380 --> 00:22:48.740 Uh, so I should say to them, I should say... 00:22:48.780 --> 00:22:53.380 - Sumimasen. 00:22:54.220 --> 00:22:57.820 Right, then. Where to next? 00:22:57.860 --> 00:23:00.620 Here. 00:23:04.860 --> 00:23:07.180 It's the next morning, and we're up early, 00:23:07.220 --> 00:23:10.180 with some big plans for the day. 00:23:10.220 --> 00:23:11.940 Unfortunately... 00:23:11.980 --> 00:23:14.940 So, today I've got up at 5:00 00:23:14.980 --> 00:23:17.140 to go to some sort of... 00:23:17.180 --> 00:23:19.940 exclusively Hokkaido horse racing event... 00:23:21.860 --> 00:23:23.020 ...and it's been canceled. 00:23:23.060 --> 00:23:24.140 So, what do you want to do now? 00:23:24.180 --> 00:23:26.220 Can we go inside? 00:23:26.260 --> 00:23:28.260 No. 00:23:28.300 --> 00:23:29.380 No, you can't. 00:23:29.420 --> 00:23:31.060 Is breakfast open yet? 00:23:31.100 --> 00:23:34.740 Breakfast is probably not open for another couple of hours. 00:23:34.780 --> 00:23:38.300 - Has anybody seen my hat? - No. Sorry. 00:23:38.340 --> 00:23:40.580 Does anybody care? 00:23:40.620 --> 00:23:43.020 We have to film something today, 00:23:43.060 --> 00:23:45.540 or the knife-edge finances of the struggling Amazon empire 00:23:45.580 --> 00:23:47.020 will tip into the red, 00:23:47.060 --> 00:23:49.860 so here's my hotel room. 00:23:49.900 --> 00:23:53.420 Ah. Ohayo. Come in. 00:23:53.460 --> 00:23:55.140 I was wanting to talk to you, actually. 00:23:55.180 --> 00:23:57.420 Um, I was going to say that... 00:23:57.460 --> 00:23:59.980 hundreds of years ago, when I was a child in the '70s, 00:24:00.020 --> 00:24:01.700 and everybody was basically a racist, it used to be 00:24:01.740 --> 00:24:05.060 considered great fun to laugh at slightly wonky 00:24:05.100 --> 00:24:07.340 Japanese translations in the instruction books 00:24:07.380 --> 00:24:09.100 that came with, you know, power tools 00:24:09.140 --> 00:24:10.940 and the early Japanese cars, and all that sort of thing. 00:24:10.980 --> 00:24:12.220 Bits that said, "Cement the driver's arm 00:24:12.260 --> 00:24:13.540 to the handle," and so on. 00:24:13.580 --> 00:24:16.300 But actually the translation of Japanese into English 00:24:16.340 --> 00:24:19.180 often yields very, very fetching phrases 00:24:19.220 --> 00:24:21.180 that are actually much nicer than the words we really use. 00:24:21.220 --> 00:24:23.300 For example, the first time I came to Japan... that was 00:24:23.340 --> 00:24:26.380 25, 26 years ago... the little sign 00:24:26.420 --> 00:24:28.580 next to the kettle in the hotel room said 00:24:28.620 --> 00:24:31.460 "electricity pot," which is a much nicer name 00:24:31.500 --> 00:24:32.460 for it than kettle. 00:24:32.500 --> 00:24:33.900 We often still say that at home, 00:24:33.940 --> 00:24:35.020 we say, "I'll fill up the electricity pot." 00:24:35.060 --> 00:24:36.340 Here's another one. 00:24:36.380 --> 00:24:38.500 Um, this is a pencil I bought recently. 00:24:38.540 --> 00:24:40.940 It's Japanese, and it's got all the usual sort of, you know, 00:24:40.980 --> 00:24:42.380 pencil rubbish written on it, 00:24:42.420 --> 00:24:44.500 but then if you look at that side, look, it says, 00:24:44.540 --> 00:24:48.060 "made by elaborate process." 00:24:48.100 --> 00:24:50.380 Now, the original Japanese probably says something 00:24:50.420 --> 00:24:53.180 completely trite, like "finest quality," 00:24:53.220 --> 00:24:55.060 but once their version of that is translated, 00:24:55.100 --> 00:24:56.780 it says "made by elaborate process," 00:24:56.820 --> 00:24:59.340 and I like things that are made by elaborate process. 00:24:59.380 --> 00:25:00.620 And here's another one. 00:25:00.660 --> 00:25:02.980 If I just put my, um, what the crew call 00:25:03.020 --> 00:25:05.420 my children's TV presenter specs on. 00:25:05.460 --> 00:25:09.180 There was a, a sign in the bathroom in the last hotel 00:25:09.220 --> 00:25:11.900 that we were in, and um, it was instructions 00:25:11.940 --> 00:25:13.900 on how to operate the shower, and it says: 00:25:13.940 --> 00:25:18.140 "Slip knob into bracket on opposite wall." 00:25:18.180 --> 00:25:19.860 No idea what it means, really, but it's much nicer 00:25:19.900 --> 00:25:22.100 than just saying whatever it was supposed to say. 00:25:22.140 --> 00:25:24.620 I just thought I'd mention... oh, look, there's my hat. 00:25:24.660 --> 00:25:27.300 Um, I just thought I'd mention that, because we can't go 00:25:27.340 --> 00:25:28.820 to the racing now, and I'm sorry about that, 00:25:28.860 --> 00:25:30.940 but as the Japanese proverb says, 00:25:30.980 --> 00:25:34.580 "Never try to bite your own navel." 00:25:39.660 --> 00:25:41.140 Masayo's taken the day off, 00:25:41.180 --> 00:25:42.500 but as the snow's stopped, 00:25:42.540 --> 00:25:44.300 and the best budget in the world 00:25:44.340 --> 00:25:46.620 doesn't cover a Japanese minibar, 00:25:46.660 --> 00:25:49.460 I've decided to go in search of a simple snack. 00:25:49.500 --> 00:25:53.060 The real problem for me is the language, because 00:25:53.100 --> 00:25:55.540 if I travel to Germany or France, I can't 00:25:55.580 --> 00:25:56.980 really speak those languages properly, 00:25:57.020 --> 00:25:58.380 but I can look at the words, 00:25:58.420 --> 00:26:00.660 and they make a noise in my head. 00:26:00.700 --> 00:26:03.100 And often their words are related to our words, 00:26:03.140 --> 00:26:05.340 and you can work out a few basic things. 00:26:05.380 --> 00:26:07.820 But in Japanese, when you look at the signs, 00:26:07.860 --> 00:26:09.940 there is no noise in your head. 00:26:15.420 --> 00:26:17.580 I know a lot of you are thinking, 00:26:17.620 --> 00:26:19.140 "Oh, James is just being a dork. 00:26:19.180 --> 00:26:22.140 It can't really be that difficult," but it is. 00:26:22.180 --> 00:26:23.460 Come and see. 00:26:26.020 --> 00:26:29.980 Now, this is the food ordering machine, 00:26:30.020 --> 00:26:32.460 but obviously you can't know what any of it is, 00:26:32.500 --> 00:26:33.780 'cause it's all written in kanji. 00:26:33.820 --> 00:26:36.620 And, if you're trying to play along at home, 00:26:36.660 --> 00:26:39.340 know that the numbers and symbols on the picture board 00:26:39.380 --> 00:26:41.820 don't relate to the numbers and symbols on the machine. 00:26:41.860 --> 00:26:45.100 Oh, no, it's different on there, though, isn't it? 00:26:47.500 --> 00:26:49.940 It's none of those... 00:26:51.060 --> 00:26:53.700 The numbers are different. 00:26:53.740 --> 00:26:55.540 So the colors will mean something. 00:26:55.580 --> 00:26:59.660 I think the orange things are... hot... 00:26:59.700 --> 00:27:01.340 or are they? 00:27:01.380 --> 00:27:03.260 Television shows are often accused 00:27:03.300 --> 00:27:06.700 of exaggerating the truth in the name of entertainment. 00:27:06.740 --> 00:27:09.220 This machine genuinely took us 00:27:09.260 --> 00:27:11.780 six full minutes to work out. 00:27:25.260 --> 00:27:26.980 Yes, there you go. Right. 00:27:35.700 --> 00:27:39.420 Even after that, I've only unlocked door number one. 00:27:41.060 --> 00:27:42.060 No? 00:27:45.740 --> 00:27:49.660 So, just to summarize, I went to a very complicated machine 00:27:49.700 --> 00:27:53.060 to buy some noodles, when I could have just asked a man, 00:27:53.100 --> 00:27:55.300 but I got a ticket from the machine, which I then had to 00:27:55.340 --> 00:27:58.340 give to the man, and he tore it in half immediately 00:27:58.380 --> 00:28:00.540 and sent me over to the noodle bar, 00:28:00.580 --> 00:28:02.740 where I offered the ticket to the lady, 00:28:02.780 --> 00:28:04.500 but she didn't want it. 00:28:07.540 --> 00:28:09.140 But three minutes later, 00:28:09.180 --> 00:28:11.900 it turned out I had hit the jackpot after all. 00:28:11.940 --> 00:28:15.380 Ah... wow. Look at that. 00:28:15.420 --> 00:28:17.940 And now everything is okay, 00:28:17.980 --> 00:28:20.380 because I have a bowl of noodles. 00:28:22.940 --> 00:28:24.260 Mmm. 00:28:24.300 --> 00:28:27.260 Japan is famed for its raw fish, 00:28:27.300 --> 00:28:30.340 but a bowl of ramen is what gets things done. 00:28:30.380 --> 00:28:33.340 In face-shatteringly freezing Hokkaido, 00:28:33.380 --> 00:28:37.900 it feels like the beans and sausages of the Orient. 00:28:37.940 --> 00:28:40.300 Anyway, I'm delighted to say that having been 00:28:40.340 --> 00:28:42.500 pelted with it and had my face rubbed in it, 00:28:42.540 --> 00:28:45.740 we're leaving all this snow stuff behind, 00:28:45.780 --> 00:28:48.580 and we're heading for the broad sunlit uplands 00:28:48.620 --> 00:28:51.220 of southeastern Hokkaido. 00:28:51.260 --> 00:28:55.140 Where the haiku are all about fresh, dry tarmac. 00:28:55.180 --> 00:28:59.500 And where, finally, I'm allowed to film a proper scene 00:28:59.540 --> 00:29:02.380 about people making stuff. 00:29:06.900 --> 00:29:09.060 Hidden in this unassuming building 00:29:09.100 --> 00:29:11.700 in the hills of Hokkaido is a forge 00:29:11.740 --> 00:29:14.460 run by a very special man. 00:29:14.500 --> 00:29:17.860 We've come here to meet Korehira Watanabe-san, 00:29:17.900 --> 00:29:20.260 and he is one of the last surviving makers 00:29:20.300 --> 00:29:23.180 of samurai swords. 00:29:23.220 --> 00:29:27.220 This is going to be excellent. 00:29:35.780 --> 00:29:39.180 James-san. Very nice to meet you. 00:29:39.220 --> 00:29:42.180 Anyone who's seen Kill Bill 00:29:42.220 --> 00:29:44.260 knows people will travel the world 00:29:44.300 --> 00:29:47.620 to find an elusive Japanese master swordsmith 00:29:47.660 --> 00:29:51.140 so they can hack ninjas to pieces in style. 00:29:51.180 --> 00:29:55.020 Korehira Watanabe has been honing his craft for 40 years 00:29:55.060 --> 00:29:58.940 and is edging ever closer to the perfect blade. 00:29:58.980 --> 00:30:01.020 And what an edge it is. 00:30:01.060 --> 00:30:03.660 Oh. 00:30:07.060 --> 00:30:08.940 Wow. 00:30:08.980 --> 00:30:10.780 That's spectacular. 00:30:10.820 --> 00:30:12.300 - May I? - Okay. 00:30:12.340 --> 00:30:15.180 Domo arigato. 00:30:15.220 --> 00:30:17.900 Oh, that is achingly gorgeous. Look at that. 00:30:17.940 --> 00:30:19.020 - Oh... - No? 00:30:20.020 --> 00:30:22.940 Okay. Okay. 00:30:25.660 --> 00:30:27.860 That feels fantastic in your hand as well. 00:30:27.900 --> 00:30:29.860 That's proper craftsmanship. There's a lot... 00:30:29.900 --> 00:30:32.180 "Craft" is a fantastically abused word. 00:30:32.220 --> 00:30:34.260 It's used by people who, you know, 00:30:34.300 --> 00:30:37.460 make wooden boxes on a band saw, but that is... 00:30:37.500 --> 00:30:39.180 it's fantastic. 00:30:39.220 --> 00:30:41.940 How long does it take to make? 00:30:43.820 --> 00:30:46.780 How many people can still do this? 00:30:51.180 --> 00:30:53.380 Do you have an apprentice? 00:30:54.900 --> 00:30:56.180 Do you want another apprentice? 00:31:01.380 --> 00:31:03.900 May I be an apprentice for one day? 00:31:06.460 --> 00:31:09.020 - Okay. Domo arigato. - Hai. Hai. 00:31:10.260 --> 00:31:11.460 What do you think? 00:31:11.500 --> 00:31:13.860 You look like a sushi chef. 00:31:13.900 --> 00:31:16.060 - I don't look like a sushi chef. - Yeah, you do. 00:31:16.100 --> 00:31:19.620 As I join in the forging of a new masterpiece, 00:31:19.660 --> 00:31:21.260 I'm instructed to follow 00:31:21.300 --> 00:31:22.420 the rhythm of the hammers. 00:31:22.460 --> 00:31:24.540 One, two, three. 00:31:24.580 --> 00:31:29.500 Luckily, I have a degree in music, so this proves easy. 00:31:29.540 --> 00:31:33.460 - Ah... - Oh, no. 00:31:43.460 --> 00:31:46.020 I'm asked to sit out the rest of the process. 00:31:46.060 --> 00:31:48.020 Clearly, I'm too much of a natural at this, 00:31:48.060 --> 00:31:51.260 and he doesn't want to show up the other apprentice. 00:31:59.340 --> 00:32:00.620 Hai. 00:32:07.780 --> 00:32:11.060 Master Watanabe-san has spent decades 00:32:11.100 --> 00:32:14.860 trying to replicate the ancient Koto samurai swords, 00:32:14.900 --> 00:32:17.260 considered the finest ever made. 00:32:17.300 --> 00:32:20.340 The rhythm of the hammers are instructions to one another. 00:32:20.380 --> 00:32:22.660 It's fantastic. 00:32:22.700 --> 00:32:25.580 Listen to 'em go ding-ding-chh, ding-ding-chh. 00:32:25.620 --> 00:32:27.860 He's telling him with his hammer taps 00:32:27.900 --> 00:32:30.900 how regularly and how hard to hit the piece of metal. 00:32:30.940 --> 00:32:34.540 The metal will be shaped across many months 00:32:34.580 --> 00:32:38.340 in continual pursuit of this mythical perfection. 00:32:38.380 --> 00:32:39.780 Hai. 00:32:39.820 --> 00:32:42.980 The samurai believed that the sword embodied the soul, 00:32:43.020 --> 00:32:46.140 and there is a spiritual reverence here. 00:32:46.180 --> 00:32:47.980 This ancient process of sword-making 00:32:48.020 --> 00:32:49.860 is actually part of the Shinto religion. 00:32:49.900 --> 00:32:53.180 It's a... it's a ritual event, as well as a manufacturing event. 00:32:53.220 --> 00:32:54.700 Then, hence this. 00:32:54.740 --> 00:32:55.940 I don't know their exact meaning, 00:32:55.980 --> 00:32:57.660 but this is all part of... 00:32:57.700 --> 00:33:01.460 These are all votive things to the gods around the forge. 00:33:03.100 --> 00:33:05.060 Where applied, this layer of clay 00:33:05.100 --> 00:33:09.020 makes the steel cool at a different rate, 00:33:09.060 --> 00:33:10.340 changing its characteristics, 00:33:10.380 --> 00:33:13.220 as well as providing that signature curve. 00:33:13.260 --> 00:33:16.660 After all these processes, you end up with a blade 00:33:16.700 --> 00:33:20.340 that has a different quality of steel here, 00:33:20.380 --> 00:33:22.700 from here, from the very edge. 00:33:22.740 --> 00:33:25.500 The edge is very hard and can be made very... very sharp. 00:33:25.540 --> 00:33:27.060 The middle is slightly more ductile, 00:33:27.100 --> 00:33:28.940 so the sword won't break. 00:33:28.980 --> 00:33:30.940 The edge here is thicker, 00:33:30.980 --> 00:33:32.980 so that the thing isn't wobbly. 00:33:33.020 --> 00:33:35.460 And all the steel that you start with 00:33:35.500 --> 00:33:36.740 is all still in the blade. 00:33:36.780 --> 00:33:38.460 Nothing is ground or cut away. 00:33:38.460 --> 00:33:42.140 It's all hammered into that. 00:33:42.180 --> 00:33:45.460 It's... it's breathtaking, really. 00:33:45.500 --> 00:33:48.980 Luckily, Watanabe-san has a work-in-progress sword 00:33:49.060 --> 00:33:51.460 that's a few months further down the line. 00:33:51.460 --> 00:33:55.060 And he lets me take it for a little test drive. 00:33:55.100 --> 00:33:56.780 Hai! 00:33:58.620 --> 00:34:01.340 How far did I go in there? Two inches? 00:34:01.380 --> 00:34:04.700 And it's perfectly okay. It's not even notched. 00:34:04.740 --> 00:34:07.940 The blade is absolutely fine. 00:34:13.300 --> 00:34:16.180 Domo arigato gozaimashita. 00:34:16.220 --> 00:34:17.460 Arigato gozaimashita. 00:34:17.460 --> 00:34:18.940 Arigato. 00:34:21.660 --> 00:34:23.820 I would quite happily have spent the next ten years 00:34:23.860 --> 00:34:25.900 being Watanabe-san's apprentice, 00:34:25.940 --> 00:34:28.180 but I think the crew would have thrown me into the forge. 00:34:28.220 --> 00:34:30.820 Plus, his current apprentice was sharpening a blade 00:34:30.860 --> 00:34:32.380 and looking at me funny. 00:34:32.420 --> 00:34:34.060 Time to move on. 00:34:36.060 --> 00:34:38.460 After all this wilderness, it's high time to head 00:34:38.460 --> 00:34:41.220 to Hokkaido's biggest city, Sapporo, 00:34:41.260 --> 00:34:43.260 named after the beer. 00:34:43.300 --> 00:34:45.780 Now, this is Sapporo, and I have to say I'm quite relieved, 00:34:45.820 --> 00:34:48.900 because my one criticism of Hokkaido is that 00:34:48.940 --> 00:34:50.260 it does feel a bit deserted. 00:34:50.300 --> 00:34:51.860 Everything is a bit empty. 00:34:51.900 --> 00:34:56.140 But this is the fifth-biggest city in Japan. 00:35:00.780 --> 00:35:03.100 Sapporo, along with Asahi, Kirin and Suntory, 00:35:03.140 --> 00:35:07.260 makes up the foaming head of Japan's beer industry, 00:35:07.300 --> 00:35:10.820 and its presence dominates the city. 00:35:10.860 --> 00:35:13.140 But my director thought I'd prefer 00:35:13.180 --> 00:35:15.980 the more intimate setting of the Sun and Moon, 00:35:16.060 --> 00:35:18.580 one of the growing number of microbreweries 00:35:18.620 --> 00:35:20.620 setting up in the city. 00:35:20.660 --> 00:35:22.900 He was wrong. 00:35:22.940 --> 00:35:26.700 The issue I have... is that most microbreweries 00:35:26.740 --> 00:35:31.460 in Britain or America are a bit... crap. 00:35:31.460 --> 00:35:33.940 Everybody's going on about, "Oh, it's 'craft' beer." 00:35:33.940 --> 00:35:35.740 But there's a reason why Sean, the cameraman, 00:35:35.780 --> 00:35:37.740 isn't using a "craft" camera. 00:35:40.980 --> 00:35:43.260 - So, you call this a bitter? - Bitter, yes. 00:35:43.300 --> 00:35:44.860 It's very pale. It's like a pale ale. 00:35:44.900 --> 00:35:46.780 - India pale ale. - Oh, it is a pa... India pale ale? 00:35:46.820 --> 00:35:48.260 - Yes. - Yeah. Okay. 00:35:53.980 --> 00:35:55.660 Smooth. 00:35:57.700 --> 00:36:00.420 That's refreshing in so many ways. 00:36:00.460 --> 00:36:02.460 It's a beer, which is refreshing. 00:36:02.460 --> 00:36:05.780 It's a good microbrewery, which is also refreshing. 00:36:07.380 --> 00:36:09.060 Mmm. 00:36:09.100 --> 00:36:10.380 Very nice. 00:36:10.420 --> 00:36:12.180 - Thank you. - Very nice. 00:36:12.220 --> 00:36:15.700 Moriya-san, the owner of the microbrewery, 00:36:15.740 --> 00:36:18.660 has agreed to give me a guided tour of the whole operation, 00:36:24.740 --> 00:36:26.260 Excellent. 00:36:30.460 --> 00:36:32.460 That has gone down since I left it. 00:36:32.500 --> 00:36:34.500 Um... 00:36:37.340 --> 00:36:38.860 All right. 00:36:38.860 --> 00:36:41.340 This obviously isn't the beer I've just helped to make, 00:36:41.380 --> 00:36:43.860 but I am brewing a plan for that. 00:36:45.860 --> 00:36:47.860 Um, when will this beer be ready? 00:36:47.900 --> 00:36:49.780 - One month. - One month? 00:36:49.820 --> 00:36:51.540 Where will we be in a month? 00:36:51.580 --> 00:36:54.140 - Uh, Osaka. - Osaka? 00:36:54.180 --> 00:36:56.260 I should point out that one of the problems we've had 00:36:56.300 --> 00:36:58.340 with Japanese hotels is they only have small bars, 00:36:58.380 --> 00:36:59.820 and they often close really early. 00:36:59.860 --> 00:37:01.900 Often before we've arrived. I wonder, 00:37:01.980 --> 00:37:04.260 could you send it if... We will pay, of course. 00:37:04.300 --> 00:37:05.860 Could you send beer to Osaka? 00:37:05.900 --> 00:37:07.060 - Yes. - Yeah? 00:37:07.100 --> 00:37:08.660 In-in bottles, you know, is fine. 00:37:08.700 --> 00:37:10.780 - Yes. - Yeah. Okay. 00:37:10.820 --> 00:37:13.500 I'd love that, if our own beer followed us across Japan. 00:37:13.540 --> 00:37:14.580 Fantastic. 00:37:14.620 --> 00:37:17.260 Kanpai. 00:37:21.460 --> 00:37:23.860 I bloody love beer. 00:37:32.220 --> 00:37:34.740 I'm nearing the end of the first leg of my trip, 00:37:34.780 --> 00:37:36.340 but before I cross to the mainland, 00:37:36.380 --> 00:37:39.660 I thought I'd experience fishing Hokkaido's 00:37:39.700 --> 00:37:41.660 bountiful coastal waters, 00:37:41.700 --> 00:37:43.660 hence the low-end, copyright-free 00:37:43.700 --> 00:37:45.060 sea shanty music. 00:37:45.100 --> 00:37:46.780 Good morning, viewers. 00:37:46.820 --> 00:37:49.460 Today, we are in Otaru, and for lunch we are having tako... 00:37:49.500 --> 00:37:51.060 octopus... very, very popular. 00:37:51.100 --> 00:37:54.260 Japan eats two-thirds of the world's octopus catch. 00:37:54.300 --> 00:37:56.180 But this being television, before I can eat it, 00:37:56.220 --> 00:37:59.500 I have to catch it, so we are here to meet Narita-san, 00:37:59.540 --> 00:38:01.220 who is the skipper of this fishing boat. 00:38:03.380 --> 00:38:05.380 James. How are you? 00:38:05.460 --> 00:38:08.380 I have... this is very correct Japanese etiquette... 00:38:08.460 --> 00:38:10.300 I have my business cards ready. 00:38:10.340 --> 00:38:14.500 And... using two hands, 00:38:14.540 --> 00:38:16.500 face towards the recipient, 00:38:16.540 --> 00:38:18.980 - I present it. - Ah. Ah. 00:38:26.700 --> 00:38:28.100 Make a point of looking at it 00:38:28.140 --> 00:38:29.980 even though you don't understand it. 00:38:30.020 --> 00:38:32.220 Oh. Excellent. 00:38:32.260 --> 00:38:34.860 Now, there's a bit of a story behind my business card 00:38:34.900 --> 00:38:39.300 because I wrote it as a haiku, 00:38:39.340 --> 00:38:43.380 and it says, or I believed it said: 00:38:43.460 --> 00:38:47.660 "My name is James May. My business card is before you, 00:38:47.700 --> 00:38:49.580 as indeed am I." 00:38:49.620 --> 00:38:51.060 And then we turned it into kanji 00:38:51.100 --> 00:38:52.860 so it looks proper Japanese haiku and so on, 00:38:52.900 --> 00:38:55.580 but then we gave it to one of our Japanese fixers and said, 00:38:55.620 --> 00:38:57.260 "Can you just translate that back for us 00:38:57.300 --> 00:38:59.900 to make sure it's okay," and it actually says: 00:38:59.980 --> 00:39:03.620 "My name is James May. Please bear this in mind. 00:39:03.660 --> 00:39:06.140 Thank you in advance." 00:39:06.180 --> 00:39:08.460 Shall we go? 00:39:08.500 --> 00:39:11.540 Yes. 00:39:11.580 --> 00:39:13.260 - Okay, okay, okay. Okay. - Yes. Okay. Okay. 00:39:14.740 --> 00:39:17.460 Yet again, I'm accidentally hilarious. 00:39:24.180 --> 00:39:27.060 A couple of things you might not know about the octopus: 00:39:27.100 --> 00:39:29.460 it has eight legs... you probably did know that... 00:39:29.500 --> 00:39:31.740 but you might not know that it has three hearts, 00:39:31.780 --> 00:39:34.060 and also that it has more intelligence in its arms 00:39:34.100 --> 00:39:35.300 than in its head. 00:39:35.340 --> 00:39:36.700 So it's excellent at multitasking, 00:39:36.740 --> 00:39:39.260 it can be using its arms to get some food out of rocks 00:39:39.300 --> 00:39:40.620 while its head is thinking 00:39:40.660 --> 00:39:42.380 what to watch on television that night. 00:39:45.580 --> 00:39:47.980 The only thing that could go against us here 00:39:48.020 --> 00:39:50.340 is that the skipper's a bit worried about the sea. 00:39:50.340 --> 00:39:51.980 They normally go out at 5:00 in the morning 00:39:52.020 --> 00:39:53.580 because that's when it's very calm. 00:39:53.620 --> 00:39:55.860 It's now gone 9:30, 00:39:55.860 --> 00:39:58.820 so it could get a little bit choppy, but let's see. 00:39:58.860 --> 00:40:02.580 I'm very confident and this is a great way of earning your lunch. 00:40:04.620 --> 00:40:07.620 Or a great way to revisit it. Unfortunately, 00:40:07.660 --> 00:40:09.540 once we leave the enclosed harbor, 00:40:09.580 --> 00:40:12.740 things get choppier than a karate tournament. 00:40:12.780 --> 00:40:14.500 Half a mile out of the harbor, 00:40:14.540 --> 00:40:16.580 it's as choppy as hell. 00:40:16.620 --> 00:40:19.540 The cameraman can hard... well, he's not standing up, 00:40:19.580 --> 00:40:21.860 to be honest, he's kneeling in front of me. 00:40:21.900 --> 00:40:23.980 I might rephrase that. 00:40:27.460 --> 00:40:29.500 Um, I've never been seasick, 00:40:29.540 --> 00:40:31.020 I'm very grateful for that, 00:40:31.060 --> 00:40:34.020 - but some of our crew... - do it quite a lot. 00:40:34.060 --> 00:40:38.660 Bet they're regretting nicking my beer in the last scene. 00:40:38.700 --> 00:40:41.380 Japan update. 00:40:41.460 --> 00:40:44.260 Subject: octopus fishing. 00:40:44.300 --> 00:40:47.380 The news is we're about halfway to where the octopus pots are. 00:40:47.460 --> 00:40:49.540 They're dropped in advance the day before, 00:40:49.580 --> 00:40:51.900 but it's too rough, says Narita-san, 00:40:51.980 --> 00:40:53.220 to stop and winch them up. 00:40:53.260 --> 00:40:55.260 The risk is that you break the ropes 00:40:55.300 --> 00:40:57.860 and then you lose your precious octopus pots forever. 00:40:57.900 --> 00:40:59.860 I think I've understood that correctly. 00:41:10.300 --> 00:41:12.580 Well, if we were... certain other 00:41:12.620 --> 00:41:14.900 unmentionable TV programs, we would fake that 00:41:14.980 --> 00:41:17.340 and just find an octopus and put it in the pot, and then pretend, 00:41:17.380 --> 00:41:18.780 "Hey, look at the octopus we've caught." 00:41:18.820 --> 00:41:22.140 But we can't really do that, can we? 'Cause that's not true. 00:41:22.180 --> 00:41:25.540 - No. Uh... - So what do we do? 00:41:25.580 --> 00:41:28.020 Well, I've heard that some people have actually managed 00:41:28.060 --> 00:41:29.380 to catch an octopus this morning, 00:41:29.460 --> 00:41:31.860 so we might be able to buy an octopus 00:41:31.900 --> 00:41:35.340 or borrow an octopus from somebody else? 00:41:35.340 --> 00:41:37.700 You know, as long as we can get to the restaurant and do the, 00:41:37.740 --> 00:41:40.100 - "Here's how you prepare an octopus." -Yeah. 00:41:40.140 --> 00:41:42.220 If somebody here's caught one, we could do... we can just revert 00:41:42.260 --> 00:41:44.460 to the 1970s and say, "Here's one we caught earlier." 00:41:44.500 --> 00:41:47.300 And here's one we caught earlier. 00:41:50.100 --> 00:41:51.900 What a weird-looking thing. 00:41:53.580 --> 00:41:55.020 So I think the deal is, 00:41:55.060 --> 00:41:56.340 I'll walk round to the restaurant, 00:41:56.380 --> 00:41:58.140 which is only about 100 meters that way, 00:41:58.180 --> 00:42:00.060 and I'll prepare lunch for the crew. 00:42:00.100 --> 00:42:01.460 I was gonna say cook lunch for the crew; 00:42:01.500 --> 00:42:02.660 it won't all be cooked. 00:42:02.700 --> 00:42:04.100 Obviously some of it will be raw. 00:42:04.140 --> 00:42:05.340 Does that sound like a deal? 00:42:05.380 --> 00:42:08.300 He's quite a sweet fellow really. 00:42:08.340 --> 00:42:11.180 I think I'll call him Bob. 00:42:11.220 --> 00:42:13.660 Moments later, Bob is dismembered by the staff 00:42:13.700 --> 00:42:17.460 of Narita-san's restaurant and readied for the deep fryer. 00:42:20.780 --> 00:42:24.260 We're going to do sashimi, tempura, 00:42:24.300 --> 00:42:26.660 and a sort of stew, which isn't called a stew... 00:42:26.700 --> 00:42:28.180 shabu-shabu, that's it. 00:42:31.940 --> 00:42:36.260 I bet that's nothing like as easy as it looks. 00:42:36.300 --> 00:42:40.180 This knife is absolutely phenomenally sharp. 00:42:40.220 --> 00:42:42.420 It's all happening in a very Zen-like, peaceful way. 00:42:42.460 --> 00:42:43.980 It's not like Jamie Oliver 00:42:44.020 --> 00:42:45.860 and-and Gordon Ramsay where they run around 00:42:45.900 --> 00:42:48.540 shouting at everybody. No, this is, this is calm. 00:42:48.580 --> 00:42:49.740 It's... 00:42:49.780 --> 00:42:51.220 James, I'm so hungry. 00:42:51.260 --> 00:42:52.660 - Hurry up, please. - Yes, all right. 00:42:53.780 --> 00:42:55.900 It'll be better because you've waited for it. 00:42:59.060 --> 00:43:00.620 Who needs MasterChef? 00:43:00.660 --> 00:43:02.980 Octopus sashimi, tempura, 00:43:03.020 --> 00:43:06.980 and shabu-shabu, a broth into which you dip raw ingredients. 00:43:07.020 --> 00:43:11.020 A feast to mollify even the harshest critic. 00:43:19.420 --> 00:43:23.500 - Very good. Very delicious. - Very good. 00:43:23.540 --> 00:43:25.340 The trouble is, the Japanese are so polite 00:43:25.380 --> 00:43:27.780 that if it tasted like shabu-shabu wellington boot, 00:43:27.820 --> 00:43:29.980 they'd still say, "Oh, yes, it's very nice." 00:43:30.020 --> 00:43:31.540 Is it really very nice? 00:43:31.580 --> 00:43:34.220 - Really very nice. Mm, mm, mm. - Really very nice, okay. 00:43:37.900 --> 00:43:40.100 - So... - Yes? 00:43:40.140 --> 00:43:41.980 So I have two sorts of ice creams, 00:43:42.020 --> 00:43:43.900 - so which would you like, James? - Yes. 00:43:43.940 --> 00:43:46.300 Well, I'm guessing from your body language 00:43:46.340 --> 00:43:49.420 you want me to take the black, gray-colored one. 00:43:49.460 --> 00:43:51.780 - Yes, this is for you. - Thank you. I thought so. 00:43:51.820 --> 00:43:53.860 - Thank you very much. - Do you know what's in it? 00:43:53.900 --> 00:43:55.900 - Coal? - Huh? 00:43:55.940 --> 00:43:58.220 No, I'm gonna guess... something... 00:43:58.260 --> 00:44:00.140 some sort of chocolate or... 00:44:00.180 --> 00:44:02.540 - tea, actually, maybe it's tea. - No, no, no, no. 00:44:02.580 --> 00:44:05.140 - I'll try it. - No. You try? 00:44:07.180 --> 00:44:09.180 Actually tastes slightly fishy. 00:44:09.220 --> 00:44:11.300 - Really? - Yeah. 00:44:11.340 --> 00:44:14.820 Exactly. It's squid ink. 00:44:14.860 --> 00:44:17.260 - Is it? - Yes. 00:44:17.300 --> 00:44:19.020 Is that vanilla? 00:44:19.060 --> 00:44:21.580 - It's sea urchin. - Is it? 00:44:21.620 --> 00:44:23.900 I love it. It's very creamy. I love it. 00:44:23.940 --> 00:44:27.260 I had hoped for a sweeter end to my trip through Hokkaido, 00:44:27.300 --> 00:44:28.860 but I'll settle for this. 00:44:28.900 --> 00:44:30.740 Now where do I get a crab stick flake? 00:44:30.780 --> 00:44:32.860 - Mm-hmm. - It's 90% ice cream. 00:44:32.900 --> 00:44:37.020 - Mm. - Ten percent fish fingers. 00:44:37.060 --> 00:44:40.060 So far on my Japanese journey, 00:44:40.100 --> 00:44:41.860 I've brought great shame to the world of dogsledding... 00:44:43.740 --> 00:44:46.060 ...shame to my snowballing team... 00:44:46.100 --> 00:44:48.580 ...shame to an ancient sword master... 00:44:48.620 --> 00:44:50.220 Whoa! 00:44:50.480 --> 00:44:54.680 And while still undeniably feeling like an outsider, 00:44:54.720 --> 00:44:57.160 the warmth and patience here is so genuine... 00:44:57.200 --> 00:44:59.400 - This is for you. -Oh, great. Actually, it's James. 00:44:59.440 --> 00:45:01.240 - Domo arigato. 00:45:01.280 --> 00:45:04.760 ...that I feel the Japanese mask of rules and protocols 00:45:04.800 --> 00:45:07.080 is slowly slipping. 00:45:08.040 --> 00:45:11.120 And as my ferry gets ready to cast off 00:45:11.160 --> 00:45:12.840 for the mainland, there's just time 00:45:12.880 --> 00:45:15.480 for Masayo and me to have one last... 00:45:17.680 --> 00:45:19.520 Konbanwa. 00:45:19.560 --> 00:45:21.560 - I have a gift for you. - Really? 00:45:21.600 --> 00:45:23.720 - Yes. - Thank you very much, James. 00:45:23.760 --> 00:45:25.280 I have a gift for you. 00:45:25.320 --> 00:45:26.640 - Thank you. - I hope you like it. 00:45:26.680 --> 00:45:28.520 - Please open it. - Okay. 00:45:38.320 --> 00:45:40.720 Be careful, it's-it's quite fragile. 00:45:43.600 --> 00:45:45.400 Just put it on my... 00:45:47.080 --> 00:45:48.760 I'll do this first. 00:45:48.800 --> 00:45:50.720 This went on for a good five minutes, 00:45:50.760 --> 00:45:52.120 so we ended up replacing it 00:45:52.160 --> 00:45:53.800 with something that just unfolded. 00:45:53.840 --> 00:45:55.720 - Please open it. - Okay. 00:45:55.760 --> 00:45:58.440 Wow. Wonderful. 00:45:58.480 --> 00:46:00.640 Very beautiful. 00:46:00.680 --> 00:46:02.360 Ah, yes! 00:46:02.400 --> 00:46:04.560 Fantastic. 00:46:04.600 --> 00:46:07.400 It's a traditional Japanese happi jacket, 00:46:07.440 --> 00:46:09.200 and I'm very happy indeed. 00:46:09.240 --> 00:46:12.400 It's great, isn't it? I like it a lot. 00:46:12.440 --> 00:46:14.760 - It's been a pleasure. Thank you. - Thank you very much. 00:46:14.800 --> 00:46:16.480 Thank you very much. 00:46:22.280 --> 00:46:23.520 Now I'm departing, 00:46:23.560 --> 00:46:26.600 I've written a small haiku to commemorate the occasion. 00:46:28.800 --> 00:46:31.160 "Springless Hokkaido. 00:46:31.200 --> 00:46:35.720 I'm off to Honshu to pop my blossom cherry." 00:46:35.760 --> 00:46:37.960 See you next time. 00:46:47.560 --> 00:46:49.280 I'll do this first. 00:46:55.520 --> 00:46:58.840 Oh... Sorry. 00:46:58.880 --> 00:47:03.560 Hold it by the edge. Hold it by the side... 00:47:03.600 --> 00:47:06.400 - Uh-huh. -...and shake it, and it will come down. 00:47:12.000 --> 00:47:13.920 Somebody pull it off it. 00:47:15.960 --> 00:47:19.680 Pull it off it. 00:47:19.720 --> 00:47:21.720 It was a teapot.