WEBVTT

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You join us at a very exciting moment.

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We're about to cut the cheese.

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So...

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♪ ♪

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Benvenuto e benvenuta,

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it's the Italian Renaissance.

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Gie her a Haggis!

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This time, I drive at pace…

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Bloody good.

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…stuff my face…

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I can see why it hasn't caught on.

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…and stare off into space.

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♪ ♪

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Ah, buon giorno
ai miei spettatori e spettatrici.

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We are now in Tuscany,

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which is wonderful,
with its incredible landscape,

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its ace selection of trees,

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its 11th-century castle and so on.

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And if you're not from agreeable,
middle-class England,

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you should know that this

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is where agreeable
middle-class English people come

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to take a villa for the summer.

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♪ ♪

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But we're not going to do that.

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We're going to look at…

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a map.

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Since I've not mentioned the boot yet,

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Tuscany is situated
right at the top at the front,

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where you'd do your laces up.

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As you can see,

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this is a landscape of color,

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one whose famous hills
astonished the senses

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of England's visiting romantic poets.

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Here, too, are
Shakespeare's sad cypresses,

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ancient oaks, vast beech trees,

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and a small, gray Fiat Panda.

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I'm off to play a game.

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It's called pallone col bracciale.

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And it's very old.

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It's one of those things
that generally would be dismissed

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as "traditional,"
i.e., nobody's really interested.

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But that's not quite true,

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because about five Tuscan villages
still play it,

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very competitively.

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The arena for today's game,

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which I've since been told
is pronounced "bratch-iale,"

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is the town of Monte San Savino,

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a center of social, political
and cultural importance...

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if you'd lived here in the Middle Ages.

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We are in the domain
of the original Medici family,

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which was roughly divided
into four quarters.

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Each quarter is represented by a town--

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San Savino, in this case--

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and those towns played each other
in a variety of games.

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Buon giorno.

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Um, the most popular of which
was bracciale,

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which is what we're going to play today.

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And I don't really know how you play it.

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I know that there's no racket.
It hasn't been invented yet.

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You play with a sort of wooden sleeve,

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and you use that to hit the ball,
a bit like volleyball.

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The ball is a big rubber thing,

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and you have to play it
against a high wall.

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It's a sort of cross between squash
and tennis.

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So you do need a very old town
with a large medieval wall in it.

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Otherwise you can't play.

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Oh, look at that.

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"The presenter of Top Gear,
The Grand Tour

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and Our Man in Japan is arriving

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for filming of his new show.

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With James May,
who will end up in the cemetery

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after a game of pallone col bracciale.

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Then we will set fire to him."

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Hmm.

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Ancient medieval bylaws state

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that before anyone can be cremated here,

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they have to meet
a well-dressed local dignitary.

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Hello.

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- Buon giorno.
- Buon giorno.

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Can I just ask where you got that jacket,
by the way?

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'Cause that's tremendous.

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- I think in Rome.
- Excellent, right.

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I don't know anything about this game.

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This is an old Renaissance game.

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It's played with a special handle.

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So that is the racket.

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Made of, uh, chestnut.

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- That way, is it?
- It's rather painful to hold.

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It's a rough and tough game of, uh,
Renaissance time,

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- so be ready for it.
- Okay.

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- Does anybody turn out to watch it?
- Yes.

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He's not wrong.

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Now, you wouldn't see this
down your local football league.

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The whole town is out,

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including Oz Clarke.

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And when it comes to playing
medieval dress-up,

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standards are high and low

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and twizzled around a bit.

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I quite like the shirt.

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I've asked if I can keep it,
and they've said yes.

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Note my medieval trainers.

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While the trumpets herald my descent
of the town steps

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in some half-trousers made
from old office blinds,

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I have but one concern...

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- My trousers
are an elevator.

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That's normal?

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And so, the game begins.

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And, like with all sport...

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That's me.

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- No, it isn't.
- ...I'm not very good.

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The rules of bracciale are
pretty simple, really...

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...you thunk the ball across the court
with your giant wooden bangle.

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Off the wall. Beautiful.

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If it goes outside the lines, it's out.

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Oh, bollocks.

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- And the best team wins...

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...which, at this stage,
is unlikely to be mine.

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Can somebody attende i pantaloni?

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However, after Director Tom has
fiddled around with me a bit...

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- How's that?
- Much better.

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...my performance improves.

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- Yeah!

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Ai ai bravo!

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Yes!

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The crowd seems mildly impressed,

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or possibly relieved
that my trousers are still up.

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Apparently, the locals have opened a book

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on whether or not
I can move this arm tomorrow.

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It hurts like hell in your elbow,
when you hit it, and up here.

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Remember that scene in Top Gun,

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when Tom Cruise is playing volleyball
on the beach

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in * slow motion?

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♪ ♪

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Well, this is nothing like that,

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but look at that shirt.

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It's game over.

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And to be honest, viewers,

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I literally have no idea how it went.

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Five game for the... for your team.

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Four game, the other team.

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- So we won?
- Yes.

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- Yes!

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Oh, grazie. Grazie.

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- Yes!

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Beer! Beer!

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Beer! Beer! Beer! Beer! Beer!

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Sadly, after the game,
my team had other things to do,

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like put the losers in the stocks

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and excommunicate
whoever wrote that tune.

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♪ ♪

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Now, as I wend my way northwest,

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it's time for double history.

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Fortunately for the rest of the world,

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Tuscany has given us more

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than just stupid trousers
and wooden pineapples.

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This is Florence, Firenze.

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We are right in the underpants
of the Italian Renaissance,

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so what I thought we'd do today
is art class.

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Many things that we take for granted today

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owe their existence
to the Italian Renaissance.

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Paperback books, for example,
the parachute

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and the 33-barreled organ.

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Also, something that stopped drawing
being wrong.

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I'm in my art scarf.

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All I need now is an erudite Englishman
with a beard called Toby,

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who's contractually not allowed to speak
for the next 30 seconds.

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We're here to talk about perspective,

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uh, which is a skill that emerged
in the Renaissance in Italy,

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specifically in Florence,

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because it was here
that Brunelleschi first codified it,

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and it's all to do
with the illusion of depth on a plane

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which is essentially flat.

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Firstly, some pre-Renaissance work
without perspective.

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Oh. Yes, that's wonky.

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We are quite literally looking down
on one part.

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On the other hand, we're looking up
at the other part,

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- the dome itself.
- It's basically wrong.

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Then, in the 15th century,

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some little-known artists adopted

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what is called "the vanishing point."

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So, James,
this is by Leonardo da Vinci.

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And essentially what we're looking at
is a constructed space

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using one-point perspective.

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So any of these diagonal lines
we can find,

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follow them, whether it be the stairs,
the lines of the floor...

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they all will ultimately converge

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- on this one, single point.
- Yes.

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It's there, is it?
This is all fascinating.

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But th-there is the rather intimidating
presence of some easels here,

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with blank paper
and an extremely famous view,

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which is the Ponte Vecchio,

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possibly the most famous bridge
in the world.

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- And we're going to draw it.
- Yes, we are.

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I have to tell you
that I can't draw.

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What I think we should do
to begin with, James,

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is establish our horizon line

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by holding your pencil out horizontally

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about exactly as high as your eyes.

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My-my eyes seem to be almost exactly
on line with the foot level of the bridge.

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Okay.

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A light line. There you go.

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I have begun my artwork.

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I should probably should ask
the string quartet in the cupboard

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to play something arty about now.

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♪ ♪

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- That looks beautifully straight.
- Right.

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Now, the next thing we're gonna do
is establish our vanishing point.

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Holding my ruler to line up
with certain architectural points

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I wonder if the people
in the farmacia know

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- that they are a vanishing point.

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They-they could disappear
at any second.

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The rubber's getting a lot of use.

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- More use than the pencil.

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And while I draw,

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the bridge enthusiasts among you
will correctly know

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that the Ponte Vecchio,
completed in 1345

00:10:01.400 --> 00:10:03.920
by one Taddeo Gaddi,

00:10:03.920 --> 00:10:09.200
is specifically a medieval stone
closed-spandrel segmented arch bridge.

00:10:09.200 --> 00:10:10.880
Something significant has happened.

00:10:10.880 --> 00:10:13.080
I have an arch,
and it looks roughly right.

00:10:13.800 --> 00:10:17.640
And now for my pièce de Renaissance:
some lines.

00:10:18.800 --> 00:10:21.200
Looks really good.

00:10:23.280 --> 00:10:25.880
I think, structurally and architecturally,
it makes sense.

00:10:25.880 --> 00:10:29.080
If you came out
of the 11th century

00:10:29.080 --> 00:10:30.720
and arrived here today,

00:10:30.720 --> 00:10:32.920
that would still be quite marvelous,

00:10:32.920 --> 00:10:36.880
because it gives the impression of
everything receding into the distance.

00:10:36.880 --> 00:10:38.640
So that would've amazed you.

00:10:38.640 --> 00:10:41.760
It doesn't amaze you,
but it would have amazed you

00:10:41.760 --> 00:10:43.680
if you'd been here, then.

00:10:43.680 --> 00:10:45.720
♪ ♪

00:10:45.720 --> 00:10:47.840
Now I can draw art.

00:10:47.840 --> 00:10:52.320
But to graduate to full Renaissance man,
I must become art.

00:10:52.320 --> 00:10:55.640
Another pillar of the Renaissance,
aside from perspective,

00:10:55.640 --> 00:10:57.680
is, of course, life drawing,

00:10:57.680 --> 00:11:02.480
the refinement of our ideas about
what the human body should look like.

00:11:02.480 --> 00:11:04.360
Now, this is a bit more difficult for me,

00:11:04.360 --> 00:11:07.960
because I can't hide behind
my basic understanding of triangles.

00:11:07.960 --> 00:11:12.640
So what I thought I'd do
is arrange for some other artists

00:11:12.640 --> 00:11:16.920
to do the art whilst I simply sit.

00:11:16.920 --> 00:11:21.080
So now I'm going to go in here
and take all my clothes off.

00:11:21.080 --> 00:11:24.360
♪ ♪

00:11:24.360 --> 00:11:28.800
This school is internationally renowned
for its classical art classes.

00:11:28.840 --> 00:11:31.920
Now, be warned,
life drawing is rather uninhibited.

00:11:32.920 --> 00:11:36.680
And, as promised, as soon as I arrived,
I did take my clothes off.

00:11:36.680 --> 00:11:39.520
But then they made me put some back on.

00:11:39.520 --> 00:11:41.400
Something they found
in a really old wardrobe.

00:11:46.440 --> 00:11:49.800
So, today, I'm posing--
or sitting, I should say--

00:11:49.800 --> 00:11:52.040
as one of the Medici,
and I'm being painted

00:11:52.040 --> 00:11:55.320
exactly as one of the Medici may
have been, in oils,

00:11:55.320 --> 00:11:57.480
naturally lit from above.

00:11:57.480 --> 00:11:59.560
And the only difference between this

00:11:59.560 --> 00:12:02.080
and what might have happened many,
many hundreds of years ago

00:12:02.080 --> 00:12:05.080
is that I'm going to be
on my mobile telephone learning Italian.

00:12:06.520 --> 00:12:09.600
All that's missing is
another bearded English scholar.

00:12:09.600 --> 00:12:13.360
Okay, so, James, today we're gonna
set you up in a particular pose.

00:12:13.360 --> 00:12:16.160
- Have I got to sit very still?
- You do have to sit very still.

00:12:16.160 --> 00:12:19.120
I am a natural twitcher and fidgeter.

00:12:19.120 --> 00:12:21.160
Well, we'll try and give you the pole,
then. See how you do with that.

00:12:21.160 --> 00:12:22.800
Try that.

00:12:22.800 --> 00:12:24.520
That only gives me one hand
to play with my phone.

00:12:24.520 --> 00:12:25.880
Do you need two hands
to play with your phone?

00:12:25.880 --> 00:12:28.480
- I'm not a teenager. Yes.

00:12:30.360 --> 00:12:33.280
And, for the second time today,
art begins.

00:12:34.240 --> 00:12:37.600
Just practicing
some useful Italian phrases.

00:12:37.600 --> 00:12:41.400
Does my head
look big in this?

00:12:41.440 --> 00:12:43.520
Seems to have
a normally proportioned head.

00:12:43.520 --> 00:12:45.080
It's not too big.

00:12:48.520 --> 00:12:51.440
Do you like my hat?

00:12:51.480 --> 00:12:53.720
Yeah, uh...

00:12:53.720 --> 00:12:55.920
I guess I'm surprised it fits.

00:12:57.520 --> 00:13:01.120
Where should
I go tonight?

00:13:01.160 --> 00:13:04.120
Well, he's dressed as a Medici.
I'm sure that there is, like, a...

00:13:04.120 --> 00:13:06.120
torture dungeon someplace.

00:13:06.120 --> 00:13:08.760
A little punishment.

00:13:11.000 --> 00:13:14.520
Need to scratch my nose.
Is that permissible?

00:13:14.520 --> 00:13:17.120
I'm not sure what sort of pillock
sits about all day

00:13:17.120 --> 00:13:19.360
holding a long pole, but there we go.

00:13:19.360 --> 00:13:21.680
I'm gonna start twitching in a minute,
I can feel it.

00:13:21.680 --> 00:13:25.240
You may have already noticed that
we've been pixelating all the knobs

00:13:25.240 --> 00:13:26.880
on grounds of taste and decency.

00:13:29.040 --> 00:13:31.280
- Bollocks.

00:13:33.480 --> 00:13:35.360
Two hours later,

00:13:35.360 --> 00:13:40.160
and it's time for art scarf me
to meet Medici me.

00:13:41.720 --> 00:13:43.440
How have you done that?

00:13:44.600 --> 00:13:48.440
I like that I look very slightly evil
in that one.

00:13:50.240 --> 00:13:51.880
So, I'm just looking at it closely

00:13:51.880 --> 00:13:54.040
because, obviously,
it's just marks on a board,

00:13:54.040 --> 00:13:55.800
but it doesn't look like marks on a board,
does it?

00:13:55.800 --> 00:13:57.800
It looks... It's me.

00:13:57.800 --> 00:14:00.440
Have you been... These are epic.

00:14:00.440 --> 00:14:02.000
- This...

00:14:03.360 --> 00:14:07.240
I like the way some of you have
captured my tubbiness as well,

00:14:07.240 --> 00:14:10.640
which wasn't there before I came to Italy,
I just want to say that.

00:14:11.800 --> 00:14:13.480
The school has generously said I can take

00:14:13.480 --> 00:14:17.240
one of these masterpieces
home with me.

00:14:17.240 --> 00:14:19.080
I do have to say grazie mille, mille,
mille, mille, mille.

00:14:22.440 --> 00:14:25.280
That was incredibly difficult,

00:14:25.280 --> 00:14:29.920
because I had to stand
in front of the artists

00:14:29.920 --> 00:14:34.000
and say whose picture I liked best,

00:14:34.000 --> 00:14:37.760
which was a little bit awkward,

00:14:37.760 --> 00:14:41.000
but I did choose one.

00:14:41.000 --> 00:14:44.480
The one that I thought was not-not
the best likeness of me, necessarily,

00:14:44.480 --> 00:14:47.040
but the one that was most about me.

00:14:47.040 --> 00:14:49.320
And I didn't say which one it was,

00:14:49.320 --> 00:14:51.360
and then I asked the crew
to do the same thing,

00:14:51.360 --> 00:14:55.640
and weirdly everybody made
the same selection.

00:14:55.640 --> 00:15:00.360
And the crew, remember, do have
to look and listen to me all day long,

00:15:00.360 --> 00:15:02.400
which is why they're paid so much.

00:15:02.400 --> 00:15:04.720
Anyway, here it is.

00:15:07.360 --> 00:15:11.800
That is not simply a picture of me.

00:15:11.800 --> 00:15:14.760
It's the essence of what I am.

00:15:14.760 --> 00:15:17.400
That's what portraiture is all about,

00:15:17.400 --> 00:15:20.840
and that's what makes this art.

00:15:21.880 --> 00:15:24.680
I'm going to leave my essence
in the car for now,

00:15:24.680 --> 00:15:28.360
because it's time for a trip
down Via Memory.

00:15:28.360 --> 00:15:30.320
This is actually the first place
I ever came in Italy,

00:15:30.320 --> 00:15:34.240
back in 1986,
to this covered market,

00:15:34.240 --> 00:15:36.480
so let's have a wander around.

00:15:36.480 --> 00:15:39.320
Despite the rise of veganism

00:15:39.320 --> 00:15:43.160
and the world turning away
from bovine-based paraphernalia,

00:15:43.160 --> 00:15:46.320
the Italians still can't get enough of
the stuff.

00:15:46.320 --> 00:15:51.080
Back in 1986, I was obviously
very young and very broke,

00:15:51.080 --> 00:15:54.880
but I did rustle together enough lira,
as it was then,

00:15:54.880 --> 00:15:59.480
to buy myself a souvenir,
and it was a little leather money purse

00:15:59.480 --> 00:16:02.680
with a spring-loaded top
that you squeezed together.

00:16:02.680 --> 00:16:05.640
And, remarkably--
and I'm not making this up--

00:16:05.640 --> 00:16:08.080
it's still in use today. There it is.

00:16:08.080 --> 00:16:11.320
These days, it holds my ear buds
and earphones,

00:16:11.320 --> 00:16:14.480
and my-my little adapters
for my smartphone,

00:16:14.480 --> 00:16:17.400
and lots of things that
hadn't been invented back then.

00:16:17.400 --> 00:16:21.280
One of the things I've learned
over the intervening 35 years,

00:16:21.280 --> 00:16:23.800
during which this has been
in constant use,

00:16:23.800 --> 00:16:27.520
is that it's not actually leather.

00:16:27.520 --> 00:16:29.600
It's vinyl.

00:16:29.600 --> 00:16:31.520
And I think the bloke who sold it to me
is over here,

00:16:31.520 --> 00:16:34.040
so I'm gonna go
and have a word with him. Oy.

00:16:34.040 --> 00:16:38.040
The index-linked refund came
to two euros fifty...

00:16:38.040 --> 00:16:41.040
coincidentally, exactly enough for lunch.

00:16:41.040 --> 00:16:42.480
Buon giorno.

00:16:42.480 --> 00:16:45.720
Un piccolo lampredotto, per favore.

00:16:45.720 --> 00:16:47.440
It's tripe.

00:16:47.440 --> 00:16:48.760
It's a... it's a cow's stomach.

00:16:48.760 --> 00:16:50.400
Cows have multiple stomachs,

00:16:50.400 --> 00:16:54.040
and this is specifically
the third one, I'm told.

00:16:54.040 --> 00:16:55.880
This is a Florentine thing.

00:16:55.880 --> 00:16:58.280
Well, since 1893, it says right here.

00:16:58.280 --> 00:17:02.560
- It looks like a very old
swimming cap.

00:17:06.320 --> 00:17:09.680
Doesn't look very promising,
but it's actually pretty good.

00:17:11.040 --> 00:17:13.560
Mmm!

00:17:13.560 --> 00:17:16.280
- Buono.
- Buono.

00:17:17.520 --> 00:17:19.040
Let's walk back to the covered market.

00:17:19.040 --> 00:17:21.320
Excuse me. Talking with my mouth full.

00:17:23.480 --> 00:17:26.440
Now we're alone, viewers,

00:17:26.440 --> 00:17:29.920
and we're out of earshot of the vendor.

00:17:29.920 --> 00:17:32.120
I can see why it hasn't caught on.

00:17:34.400 --> 00:17:38.320
I binned it and bought the wallet back.
Quite tasty.

00:17:38.320 --> 00:17:40.320
♪ ♪

00:17:45.680 --> 00:17:49.400
because I also came to this building
on my left, the Museo Galileo,

00:17:49.400 --> 00:17:53.800
which back then was known
by the rather more snappy title, I think,

00:17:53.800 --> 00:17:58.600
of the Museum of the History of Science
of Florence.

00:17:58.600 --> 00:18:00.560
It's shut.

00:18:02.320 --> 00:18:05.360
Today, though, I have special permissions.

00:18:05.360 --> 00:18:07.800
I can have the entire museum to myself,

00:18:07.800 --> 00:18:11.360
just me and the ghost of Galileo.

00:18:14.120 --> 00:18:16.480
Born in 1564,

00:18:16.480 --> 00:18:20.600
Galileo Galilei was a figurehead
in observing things.

00:18:20.600 --> 00:18:23.040
He was called the father of astronomy,
modern physics,

00:18:23.040 --> 00:18:26.000
scientific method and modern science,

00:18:26.000 --> 00:18:29.800
which, even by Renaissance standards,
are odd names for your kids.

00:18:30.840 --> 00:18:32.760
Galileo was later tried for heresy

00:18:32.800 --> 00:18:35.360
because he dared to agree
with the Copernican theory

00:18:35.360 --> 00:18:36.960
that the Earth moved around the Sun,

00:18:36.960 --> 00:18:39.840
and he spent his last ten years
under house arrest.

00:18:39.840 --> 00:18:41.320
He did not, however,

00:18:41.320 --> 00:18:44.280
contrary to popular belief,
do the fandango.

00:18:44.280 --> 00:18:46.160
That is Galileo.

00:18:46.160 --> 00:18:49.280
And it's funny to think that when he died,

00:18:49.280 --> 00:18:51.880
he was buried in a pauper's grave

00:18:51.880 --> 00:18:54.640
because he was considered dangerous.

00:18:54.640 --> 00:18:56.880
It was only about a hundred years later
that people started to realize,

00:18:56.880 --> 00:18:58.960
"No, maybe Galileo was onto something."

00:18:58.960 --> 00:19:04.720
Galileo was an early adopter of
the telescope and even made his own.

00:19:04.760 --> 00:19:07.240
This is a replica.

00:19:07.240 --> 00:19:09.480
They wouldn't let me
handle the real thing,

00:19:09.480 --> 00:19:12.240
but this is what the telescope looked like
in Galileo's day.

00:19:12.240 --> 00:19:17.400
Just a very simple objective and whatever
the other lens is called, I've forgotten.

00:19:17.400 --> 00:19:19.800
So you would point the...

00:19:22.160 --> 00:19:23.880
You can just edit 'round that bit.

00:19:23.880 --> 00:19:26.000
It's made of real leather, you know?

00:19:27.240 --> 00:19:31.400
Galileo's work helped to prove
that Copernicus was right.

00:19:31.400 --> 00:19:35.160
The armillary sphere shows the Earth
in the middle of the universe,

00:19:35.160 --> 00:19:39.360
whereas, in fact, it's just a planet
going around the Sun.

00:19:39.400 --> 00:19:41.040
And now, some marbles.

00:19:41.040 --> 00:19:45.000
Here is a reproduction of an experiment
that was devised by Galileo,

00:19:45.000 --> 00:19:48.520
and it helped overthrow
the ancient teachings of Aristotle

00:19:48.520 --> 00:19:53.520
who said that things fell to earth
at a constant rate

00:19:53.520 --> 00:19:56.320
and in proportion to their weight,

00:19:56.320 --> 00:19:59.840
so a cannonball would fall quicker
than a pea, for example.

00:19:59.840 --> 00:20:03.400
So what Galileo did was design
this inclined plane.

00:20:03.400 --> 00:20:06.080
There's a ball in it, which rolls down.

00:20:06.080 --> 00:20:08.160
And with the addition of the bells,
you can demonstrate

00:20:08.160 --> 00:20:13.520
that the ball accelerates at a rate
such that the distance it's gone

00:20:13.520 --> 00:20:17.720
in a given unit of time is equal
to that unit of time squared.

00:20:17.720 --> 00:20:19.760
What it actually means...

00:20:19.760 --> 00:20:22.320
You see how the bells are further apart.

00:20:22.320 --> 00:20:25.400
They will ring regularly.

00:20:25.400 --> 00:20:27.800
And... three, two, one.

00:20:31.480 --> 00:20:34.080
The ball hasn't come back.

00:20:34.080 --> 00:20:38.560
Seriously, this is like you've put 50p
in Space Invaders and...

00:20:40.840 --> 00:20:41.840
Hang on.

00:20:41.840 --> 00:20:45.000
Has anybody got something
like a coat hanger?

00:20:45.000 --> 00:20:49.040
Anyway, it's time to stop playing
Renaissance pinball

00:20:49.040 --> 00:20:52.720
because the curator, Elena,
wants to show me the finger.

00:20:52.720 --> 00:20:54.520
- Oh, hello.
- Hello.

00:20:54.520 --> 00:20:56.600
Here it is. Galileo's finger.

00:20:56.600 --> 00:20:58.040
- That is...
- The middle.

00:20:58.040 --> 00:21:00.880
- And this is...?
- Index and thumb.

00:21:00.880 --> 00:21:07.000
So, these were recovered after he was
exhumed, about 100 years after his death,

00:21:07.000 --> 00:21:09.240
and they dug him up and
they moved him into the church.

00:21:09.240 --> 00:21:13.520
And at that point, his finger was taken

00:21:13.520 --> 00:21:15.240
- like holy relics.
- Yeah.

00:21:15.240 --> 00:21:16.840
See, I find that a bit odd,

00:21:16.840 --> 00:21:21.560
because the church
effectively condemned Galileo,

00:21:21.560 --> 00:21:26.080
but yet, ironically, his finger
and finger and thumb

00:21:26.080 --> 00:21:29.280
are now preserved exactly in the way
that the relics of a saint would be,

00:21:29.280 --> 00:21:31.000
and they've gone back to being

00:21:31.000 --> 00:21:34.840
objects of religious
rather than scientific veneration.

00:21:34.840 --> 00:21:36.360
So he was a revolutionary,

00:21:36.360 --> 00:21:38.440
but his own revolution
ultimately destroyed him.

00:21:38.440 --> 00:21:40.280
Often the way.

00:21:40.280 --> 00:21:42.320
Che Guevara, I suppose. Who else?

00:21:42.320 --> 00:21:44.320
- Leon Trotsky.
- Leon Trotsky.

00:21:46.120 --> 00:21:47.640
The white gloves
of Michael Jackson.

00:21:49.080 --> 00:21:51.120
- The what?

00:21:51.120 --> 00:21:52.920
No, you're right, actually. No.

00:21:52.920 --> 00:21:55.240
No, because they are...
they're on display somewhere.

00:21:55.240 --> 00:21:57.000
Aren't they? They're in...
they're in a box.

00:21:57.000 --> 00:22:00.760
The... the white gloves
of Michael Jackson.

00:22:00.760 --> 00:22:02.760
♪ ♪

00:22:12.000 --> 00:22:14.240
Right,
that's the first part of science done.

00:22:14.240 --> 00:22:18.360
Now to change into something
more comfortable for chemistry.

00:22:19.360 --> 00:22:23.720
This is the magnificent Santa Croce.
Fabulous, isn't it?

00:22:23.720 --> 00:22:26.640
And its attendant piazza is also fabulous.

00:22:26.640 --> 00:22:28.680
There's a statue of Dante, look.

00:22:28.680 --> 00:22:30.920
There are some frescos
on the wall over there and little cafés.

00:22:30.920 --> 00:22:32.920
It's all gorgeous.
What's wrong with this scene?

00:22:32.920 --> 00:22:34.280
I'm in it.

00:22:34.280 --> 00:22:36.240
And despite my efforts to be Italian

00:22:36.240 --> 00:22:39.960
with my new expensive Italian cardigan
and T-shirt thing,

00:22:39.960 --> 00:22:42.960
I'm still a bit of a mess,
and that's only the beginning, really.

00:22:42.960 --> 00:22:46.520
I don't smell that great, either, so let's
see if we can do something about that.

00:22:48.040 --> 00:22:50.040
♪ ♪

00:22:52.000 --> 00:22:54.560
Wanting to smell nice is nothing new.

00:22:54.560 --> 00:22:58.920
Ancient civilizations,
from the Chinese to the Carthaginians,

00:22:58.960 --> 00:23:01.600
all used perfumes of sorts.

00:23:01.600 --> 00:23:04.120
The Egyptians, in fact,
were the first people

00:23:04.120 --> 00:23:06.600
to give bottles of perfume
to their mummies.

00:23:06.600 --> 00:23:09.400
For the last 700 years, however,

00:23:09.400 --> 00:23:13.320
it's the Italians who have been
elevating it to a fine art.

00:23:13.320 --> 00:23:17.320
The name of this operation
I'm now visiting is Aquaflor,

00:23:17.320 --> 00:23:21.160
which is actually Latin,
and it means, basically, flower water,

00:23:21.160 --> 00:23:23.400
which is what the earliest perfumes were.

00:23:23.400 --> 00:23:26.440
Now, we know that perfume has
been made in Florence

00:23:26.440 --> 00:23:29.040
since the early 13th century.

00:23:29.040 --> 00:23:31.760
And this 14th-century building
operates today

00:23:31.760 --> 00:23:36.400
as a sort of top secret smells laboratory.

00:23:36.400 --> 00:23:41.600
Aquaflor creates bespoke fragrances
for the wealthy and respected,

00:23:41.600 --> 00:23:44.760
but they're allowing me in today.

00:23:44.760 --> 00:23:47.080
And I've booked
a personal consultation.

00:23:49.120 --> 00:23:51.560
It also smells like that floor
of the department store

00:23:51.560 --> 00:23:54.040
where men only go when they've been
on a long business trip,

00:23:54.040 --> 00:23:55.440
if you know what I mean.

00:23:58.040 --> 00:24:01.000
Now, I'm searching for the scent of man.

00:24:01.000 --> 00:24:03.800
Well, a man: me.

00:24:03.800 --> 00:24:07.520
And for that, I need a virtuoso of noses,

00:24:07.520 --> 00:24:09.840
an enchanter of aromas,

00:24:09.840 --> 00:24:13.120
a wizard of whiffs to cast me a smell.

00:24:13.120 --> 00:24:17.200
And here is one.
His name is Caesis.

00:24:19.680 --> 00:24:21.720
What a nice place to work.

00:24:21.760 --> 00:24:27.680
The technical term for this olfactory
emporium is... an olfactorium.

00:24:27.680 --> 00:24:32.360
It contains thousands of
raw perfume-making materials,

00:24:32.360 --> 00:24:34.360
tinctures and extracts.

00:24:34.400 --> 00:24:38.640
I've asked Caesis to concoct a cologne
using my favorite smells:

00:24:38.640 --> 00:24:40.840
lavender, freshly cut grass,

00:24:40.840 --> 00:24:44.920
petrol, bicycle inner tubes and kebab.

00:24:44.920 --> 00:24:47.880
The top notes,
the ones that come out at the beginning,

00:24:47.880 --> 00:24:50.320
will be some citrus with lavender.

00:24:50.320 --> 00:24:52.680
Lavender actually does remind me
of the UK.

00:24:52.680 --> 00:24:57.440
And then for the kebab spices:
pepper, cloves and nutmeg.

00:24:57.440 --> 00:24:59.160
I haven't heard
the bicycle inner tube yet.

00:24:59.160 --> 00:25:02.840
- Is there any...
- The bicycle will come out of the leather

00:25:02.840 --> 00:25:06.880
with some styrax, which is, uh,
a resin from a tree

00:25:06.880 --> 00:25:09.200
that smells quite rubbery.

00:25:09.200 --> 00:25:11.440
- Now, we talk about musk.
- Mm-hmm.

00:25:11.440 --> 00:25:13.920
And musk is a vital part of perfume,

00:25:13.920 --> 00:25:17.920
and musk actually comes from
the * gland or from the ass of...

00:25:17.920 --> 00:25:21.080
Nether regions of the Himalayan deer, yes.

00:25:21.080 --> 00:25:24.560
So when Tennyson writes,
"the musk of the rose is blown,"

00:25:24.560 --> 00:25:26.520
and this is supposed to be very romantic,

00:25:26.520 --> 00:25:29.880
and so what-what he's actually saying is
"the ass of the rose is blown."

00:25:29.880 --> 00:25:32.080
- Okay.
- So, don't worry.

00:25:32.120 --> 00:25:33.320
- Asides.
- In your perfume,

00:25:33.320 --> 00:25:34.880
the musk is a synthetic musk.

00:25:34.920 --> 00:25:36.800
It's not the deer's * inside there.

00:25:36.800 --> 00:25:40.280
Okay, no deer's *.

00:25:41.280 --> 00:25:44.880
Um, I'm very, very excited now
to know what I smell like.

00:25:44.920 --> 00:25:46.480
You smell like poo.

00:25:46.520 --> 00:25:48.520
- Yes, thank you.
- Brussels sprouts.

00:25:49.920 --> 00:25:52.600
What's the weirdest smell
you've ever been asked to...

00:25:52.600 --> 00:25:55.200
...invoke or recreate?

00:25:55.200 --> 00:26:00.440
Was once... a girl that asked me
the smell of blood

00:26:00.440 --> 00:26:03.600
in a barn.

00:26:03.600 --> 00:26:05.520
- Blood in the barn?
- Yeah.

00:26:05.520 --> 00:26:08.320
In a barn, like with animals,
the hay and everything,

00:26:08.320 --> 00:26:09.880
and the smell of blood as well.

00:26:09.880 --> 00:26:12.960
- Like murder?
- That one freaked me out. Yeah.

00:26:12.960 --> 00:26:14.840
Right.

00:26:14.880 --> 00:26:17.320
Suddenly, I feel better about
my kebab request.

00:26:18.600 --> 00:26:21.960
And now, Caesis blends
over 40 ingredients

00:26:21.960 --> 00:26:24.520
to become the essence of me.

00:26:24.520 --> 00:26:26.280
So, now it's diluted in alcohol.

00:26:27.760 --> 00:26:29.360
And we're gonna bottle it.

00:26:30.360 --> 00:26:33.600
That's the meaning of me
going into that bottle,

00:26:33.600 --> 00:26:35.280
and when it comes back out of the bottle,

00:26:35.280 --> 00:26:39.280
I'm released and become present,
like a genie or a spirit.

00:26:40.960 --> 00:26:43.320
There you are. Ready.

00:26:43.320 --> 00:26:45.240
We're gonna just try it now,
but as I told you,

00:26:46.640 --> 00:26:50.360
wait for at least a month
before you try it again.

00:26:50.360 --> 00:26:51.760
- Okay?
- Okay.

00:26:51.760 --> 00:26:54.480
- So it matures.
- Yes.

00:26:54.480 --> 00:26:55.840
Now it's gonna be a little bit rough.

00:26:56.960 --> 00:26:59.480
- Feel the spray?
- Yeah, I can feel it.

00:26:59.480 --> 00:27:00.520
Yeah.

00:27:01.520 --> 00:27:02.920
Well, it's definitely pleasant.

00:27:02.920 --> 00:27:05.760
I would say that-that smells masculine.

00:27:05.760 --> 00:27:08.840
- It smells slightly industrial
but not offensively so.
- Mm-hmm.

00:27:09.840 --> 00:27:12.160
- You're seeing all the notes come out.
- Yes, yes.

00:27:12.160 --> 00:27:14.800
- Slowly revealing themselves.
- It's changing

00:27:14.800 --> 00:27:17.560
as I make this rather absurd gesture.

00:27:17.560 --> 00:27:19.920
I mean,
I have to think of a name for it.

00:27:19.920 --> 00:27:22.320
What should we call the scent of me?

00:27:26.840 --> 00:27:29.640
♪ ♪

00:27:35.200 --> 00:27:37.000
♪ ♪

00:27:46.560 --> 00:27:48.840
♪ ♪

00:27:53.240 --> 00:27:57.880
Fiasco:
Il grande odore dell'uomo.

00:27:57.880 --> 00:27:59.600
♪ ♪

00:28:02.600 --> 00:28:06.640
I'm now leaving the Italian Renaissance
behind in Florence...

00:28:06.640 --> 00:28:09.400
Well, I'm knackered now
and I can't speak.

00:28:09.400 --> 00:28:14.000
...to peddle up to the Italian present
in Emilia-Romagna,

00:28:14.000 --> 00:28:17.120
which is nearly 100 miles away?

00:28:17.160 --> 00:28:19.560
- Um...
- You haven't gone very far.

00:28:19.560 --> 00:28:23.960
Well, look behind you.
It's further than it looks.

00:28:23.960 --> 00:28:26.640
Just having a small rest is what you do
when you ride a bike.

00:28:28.280 --> 00:28:30.760
Well, bugger that for a game of soldiers.

00:28:31.800 --> 00:28:33.680
Ah, that's better.

00:28:33.720 --> 00:28:37.040
Now, I'm sure most of you will be familiar
with my fetishes by now:

00:28:37.040 --> 00:28:39.800
exquisite Byzantine mosaics, for example,

00:28:39.800 --> 00:28:43.360
or a well-turned walnut instrument.

00:28:45.400 --> 00:28:49.240
Or this. This is a Ferrari.

00:28:51.880 --> 00:28:54.680
And not even a scruffy presenter

00:28:54.680 --> 00:28:58.400
in car enthusiast jeans could
spoil this view.

00:28:59.760 --> 00:29:01.360
If you had to draw

00:29:01.360 --> 00:29:04.800
a triangle representing all of humankind's

00:29:04.800 --> 00:29:07.640
ambitions and aspirations,

00:29:07.640 --> 00:29:10.200
then somewhere near the top, if not at it,

00:29:10.200 --> 00:29:12.400
would be a Ferrari.

00:29:12.400 --> 00:29:16.760
A Ferrari is a car, of course,
but it's also an objet d'art,

00:29:16.760 --> 00:29:18.680
an object of desire.

00:29:18.680 --> 00:29:20.800
It is the perfect synthesis

00:29:20.800 --> 00:29:24.720
between the technological
and the artistic.

00:29:24.720 --> 00:29:27.360
I'm going to show you...

00:29:27.360 --> 00:29:29.800
how it's made.

00:29:30.840 --> 00:29:36.360
The first Ferrari
rolled out of this factory in 1947.

00:29:36.400 --> 00:29:39.480
The cars are called Ferrari
after the company's founder,

00:29:39.480 --> 00:29:41.320
who was called Ferrari.

00:29:41.320 --> 00:29:43.240
Enzo Ferrari himself

00:29:43.240 --> 00:29:45.920
supposedly said
that when you buy a Ferrari,

00:29:45.920 --> 00:29:47.800
you actually pay for the engine,

00:29:47.800 --> 00:29:50.040
and the rest of the car is free.

00:29:50.040 --> 00:29:53.560
The engine starts life here
in the foundry.

00:29:53.560 --> 00:29:56.200
And the foundry...
This is the only European carmaker

00:29:56.200 --> 00:29:58.000
that still has its own foundry.

00:29:58.000 --> 00:30:00.840
This is a fabulous part of the process

00:30:00.840 --> 00:30:03.080
because, yes, it's high-tech,

00:30:03.080 --> 00:30:06.080
but it's also occult.

00:30:07.760 --> 00:30:12.040
As someone who once worked
in a foundry, I'm excited.

00:30:12.040 --> 00:30:13.640
Very excited.

00:30:16.040 --> 00:30:19.240
The foundry is where the big bits
of the engine are cast.

00:30:19.240 --> 00:30:23.800
It's where earth, fire and metal
conspire like witches

00:30:23.800 --> 00:30:27.440
over a cauldron
to spawn the trembling heart

00:30:27.440 --> 00:30:29.000
of the living machine.

00:30:29.000 --> 00:30:31.160
Ooh, cores.

00:30:31.160 --> 00:30:34.160
These are the cores.
So, these are the bits

00:30:34.160 --> 00:30:36.960
that form the cavities inside the casting.

00:30:36.960 --> 00:30:41.360
So they're made of sand, but it's sand
mixed with a resin that is then hardened,

00:30:41.360 --> 00:30:45.040
so it's not gonna fall apart
like a sandcastle when I touch it.

00:30:45.040 --> 00:30:47.160
And the really weird thing
about working in a foundry,

00:30:47.160 --> 00:30:49.160
and especially if you make the molds,

00:30:49.160 --> 00:30:51.320
is you have to think
of everything in reverse.

00:30:51.320 --> 00:30:55.800
That is something
that isn't going to be there.

00:30:55.800 --> 00:30:57.360
See what I mean?

00:30:57.360 --> 00:30:59.080
To produce the bit

00:30:59.080 --> 00:31:00.600
that actually is going to be there,

00:31:00.600 --> 00:31:04.000
aluminium is hearted
to over 800 degrees Celsius,

00:31:04.000 --> 00:31:06.920
around the same temperature
as the inside of Mount Etna,

00:31:06.920 --> 00:31:08.720
forge of the gods.

00:31:08.720 --> 00:31:11.320
This is a holding furnace.
Molten aluminium

00:31:11.320 --> 00:31:14.400
has been poured into here
and then alloyed with copper

00:31:14.400 --> 00:31:17.160
or one or two other things
to make the aluminium alloy.

00:31:17.160 --> 00:31:18.680
That's going to go in there,

00:31:18.680 --> 00:31:21.280
and then it's going to go
into this automatic casting machine,

00:31:21.280 --> 00:31:23.160
and then we will see it go into the mold.

00:31:23.160 --> 00:31:26.440
That is the beginning
of the creation of the engine.

00:31:28.600 --> 00:31:30.040
Here you are.

00:31:31.680 --> 00:31:33.680
- If he drops it,

00:31:33.680 --> 00:31:37.680
we have to run away very, very quickly
because it spreads very quickly,

00:31:37.680 --> 00:31:39.760
and it makes a terrible mess
of your shoes.

00:31:39.760 --> 00:31:43.520
This recipe
for the perfect piping hot aluminium soup

00:31:43.520 --> 00:31:47.120
represents centuries
of metallurgical advancements,

00:31:47.120 --> 00:31:50.920
but, at its core,
it remains a rather ancient process.

00:31:50.920 --> 00:31:52.560
It's also rather Promethean

00:31:52.560 --> 00:31:55.720
because the whole thing
is covered in flames,

00:31:55.720 --> 00:31:57.800
and, of course,
we are melting the core of the Earth

00:31:57.800 --> 00:32:00.400
or remelting the core of the Earth,
if you like.

00:32:00.400 --> 00:32:02.480
The aluminium comes out of an ore.

00:32:02.480 --> 00:32:04.880
It was solid. It becomes liquid.

00:32:04.880 --> 00:32:08.520
Then it becomes solid again,
but this time, it's a Ferrari.

00:32:11.160 --> 00:32:14.920
Yes, yes, yes.

00:32:14.920 --> 00:32:16.600
Squirt,

00:32:16.600 --> 00:32:19.040
cylinder head, blam.

00:32:19.040 --> 00:32:20.440
It's amazing.

00:32:20.440 --> 00:32:23.400
Now the aluminum has cooled
and solidified,

00:32:23.400 --> 00:32:26.520
the sand can be bashed away to reveal...

00:32:26.520 --> 00:32:27.960
It's magic.

00:32:27.960 --> 00:32:29.920
...the casting.

00:32:29.920 --> 00:32:33.280
You will have noticed
a lot of robotic arms

00:32:33.280 --> 00:32:36.680
and a lot of computer screens,
but in the end, it's a foundry,

00:32:36.680 --> 00:32:38.720
and quite a bit of it still relies

00:32:38.720 --> 00:32:40.520
on the skill of the operators.

00:32:40.520 --> 00:32:42.960
The first inspection is simply visual.

00:32:42.960 --> 00:32:45.160
A man looks at it to say...

00:32:45.160 --> 00:32:47.640
"Delicious casting."

00:32:49.640 --> 00:32:51.640
Which brings me nicely to the next bit,

00:32:51.640 --> 00:32:53.560
where I am allowed to do
something delicious myself.

00:32:53.560 --> 00:32:57.160
I'm going to make a core.

00:32:57.160 --> 00:33:00.160
That is, create a bit
of the not-there engine.

00:33:01.640 --> 00:33:03.240
This is deburring, to take the sharp edges

00:33:03.240 --> 00:33:08.160
off the core, which has been
made in a mold of its own.

00:33:08.160 --> 00:33:09.920
If you didn't knock these off,
they'd be washed away

00:33:09.920 --> 00:33:11.960
by the aluminum as it came in,
and then they'd become

00:33:11.960 --> 00:33:15.000
what's called an inclusion
in the finished casting.

00:33:15.000 --> 00:33:16.200
That's bad.

00:33:16.200 --> 00:33:18.160
The core is made up of several pieces

00:33:18.160 --> 00:33:21.360
that are then stuck together,
so you get one core set

00:33:21.360 --> 00:33:24.160
that simply drops into place in the mold.

00:33:26.040 --> 00:33:30.600
Lesson in mold deburring done,
now it's my turn.

00:33:30.600 --> 00:33:33.400
So, start at this edge. Sì?

00:33:35.200 --> 00:33:38.680
Very satisfying.

00:33:38.680 --> 00:33:41.200
Good? Good.

00:33:41.200 --> 00:33:43.600
Oh, there's a n-nasty bit there.

00:33:43.600 --> 00:33:45.800
You see that edge there?

00:33:45.800 --> 00:33:48.760
That's all got to be smoothed over.

00:33:48.760 --> 00:33:51.240
Normally, when I do careful
and skilled things like this,

00:33:51.240 --> 00:33:54.200
the director shouts "Cut" and bodges it.

00:33:54.200 --> 00:33:56.120
Okay, I have control.

00:33:56.120 --> 00:34:00.400
But for once, they actually let me
finish a job properly.

00:34:00.400 --> 00:34:03.280
That went home,
as they say in engineering.

00:34:04.440 --> 00:34:06.080
Bravo.

00:34:16.120 --> 00:34:18.960
Here are some
the professionals made earlier.

00:34:18.960 --> 00:34:21.000
I'm going to move on to another key job.

00:34:21.000 --> 00:34:24.120
A tree of Ferrari key rings.

00:34:25.440 --> 00:34:27.480
Sand is here, we got four minutes.

00:34:27.480 --> 00:34:30.080
- Buon giorno.
- Buon giorno.

00:34:30.080 --> 00:34:32.000
♪ ♪

00:34:34.280 --> 00:34:36.960
Now we've got about
two and a half minutes left

00:34:36.960 --> 00:34:38.200
before it goes completely hard.

00:34:38.200 --> 00:34:40.480
And two and a half minutes later...

00:34:40.480 --> 00:34:44.200
The other half of the mold
is a simple lid,

00:34:44.200 --> 00:34:46.960
which has in it the runners and risers.

00:34:46.960 --> 00:34:51.000
That's where the aluminum goes in
and then comes back out again.

00:34:51.000 --> 00:34:54.440
We reassemble that.

00:34:54.440 --> 00:34:57.480
We are then ready to pour.

00:34:57.480 --> 00:34:59.920
Once the molds are made,
the aluminum is poured

00:34:59.920 --> 00:35:03.200
and left to cool,
so let's cut to the unveiling.

00:35:03.200 --> 00:35:06.280
It's so exciting, this bit,
it's still slightly warm.

00:35:09.240 --> 00:35:12.240
Who would like a Ferrari key ring?

00:35:13.280 --> 00:35:14.440
There you are.

00:35:15.760 --> 00:35:17.200
Ferrari key ring?

00:35:19.960 --> 00:35:24.440
Sadly, I had to give that nice red coat
back, which is a shame.

00:35:24.440 --> 00:35:27.000
But there is one last perk of the job.

00:35:27.000 --> 00:35:33.240
This is the hallowed tarmac
of Ferrari's Fiorano test circuit,

00:35:33.240 --> 00:35:37.120
and I've been given permission
to go around it,

00:35:37.120 --> 00:35:38.320
so let's do that.

00:35:45.640 --> 00:35:47.360
Oh, only kidding.

00:35:47.360 --> 00:35:50.080
Yes, all right,
I'll go around in the Ferrari.

00:36:00.200 --> 00:36:04.560
This is the rather appropriately-named
Ferrari Roma.

00:36:04.560 --> 00:36:08.200
Packing a whacking great 612 horsepower

00:36:08.200 --> 00:36:10.680
and with a top speed of 199 MPH,

00:36:10.680 --> 00:36:15.000
the Roma can do nought to 60
in just 3.4 seconds.

00:36:15.080 --> 00:36:18.840
It'll also set you back a mere 170 grand.

00:36:18.880 --> 00:36:22.240
This is a first-world observation,
I appreciate that,

00:36:22.240 --> 00:36:26.720
but driving around in a Ferrari does
make you feel bloody good.

00:36:32.000 --> 00:36:35.480
In some ways we've arrived
at a little bit of a paradox here,

00:36:35.480 --> 00:36:38.320
because the thing that makes
the Ferrari so delicious

00:36:38.320 --> 00:36:42.200
from here is, of course, the engine,

00:36:42.200 --> 00:36:45.400
and that is the bit of it
that is most anachronistic.

00:36:45.400 --> 00:36:50.400
That's the bit that, supposedly,
we're going to say goodbye to very soon.

00:36:50.400 --> 00:36:52.440
But, to be honest, if this Ferrari ends up

00:36:52.440 --> 00:36:56.320
being entirely electric,
I'm not sure I'm going to mind.

00:36:56.320 --> 00:36:59.800
So much of what makes it
a wonderful thing will survive.

00:36:59.800 --> 00:37:01.720
I'm ready for the new Ferrari.

00:37:09.000 --> 00:37:13.800
The next day, now the proud owner
of a new Ferrari... key ring,

00:37:13.800 --> 00:37:16.080
mia Panda and I take
a short jaunt up the road.

00:37:16.080 --> 00:37:18.120
Well, I'm heading into the hills,

00:37:18.120 --> 00:37:20.880
and I know I've said this
several times already,

00:37:20.880 --> 00:37:26.120
but this really is a spectacularly
good-looking country.

00:37:26.120 --> 00:37:28.920
The Italians are completely ruined.

00:37:28.920 --> 00:37:31.120
I mean, it's not fair.

00:37:31.120 --> 00:37:35.000
But I'm not here
for the frankly incredible views.

00:37:35.000 --> 00:37:37.440
I'm here to visit
a boring-looking warehouse

00:37:37.440 --> 00:37:40.960
that's actually a gold mine.

00:37:40.960 --> 00:37:44.640
I am high in the hills of Emilia-Romagna,

00:37:44.640 --> 00:37:49.240
the region that produces
the world-famous Parmesan cheese.

00:37:49.240 --> 00:37:51.280
Except of course,
it's not actually called that.

00:37:51.280 --> 00:37:56.160
It's correctly called
Parmigiano Reggiano cheesiano.

00:37:56.160 --> 00:37:58.280
And you will know,
if you have been to a supermarket,

00:37:58.280 --> 00:37:59.880
that it's incredibly expensive,

00:37:59.880 --> 00:38:03.600
because it is
an extremely valuable commodity,

00:38:03.600 --> 00:38:06.840
so valuable in fact--
and I'm not making this up--

00:38:06.840 --> 00:38:09.160
it has its own bank.

00:38:09.160 --> 00:38:13.200
It's here. This is a cheese bank.

00:38:13.200 --> 00:38:16.160
And I promise you, you will be astonished.

00:38:18.360 --> 00:38:21.240
Now, since I've been wearing this jacket,

00:38:21.240 --> 00:38:23.400
the crew have been saying
how Italian I look.

00:38:23.400 --> 00:38:26.720
I've no idea
where they get that idea from.

00:38:29.240 --> 00:38:32.840
It's like something from The Matrix,
only with fewer men in dark glasses

00:38:32.840 --> 00:38:34.640
and a bit more cheese.

00:38:34.640 --> 00:38:36.960
Wow.

00:38:36.960 --> 00:38:39.440
This is cheese.

00:38:41.840 --> 00:38:46.600
Cheese, cheese, cheese.

00:38:46.600 --> 00:38:48.720
I know you're probably
struggling to see me,

00:38:48.720 --> 00:38:51.960
so here's me talking to you in close-up.

00:38:51.960 --> 00:38:53.440
Parmigiano Reggiano

00:38:53.440 --> 00:38:55.960
is actually first and foremost
a definition.

00:38:55.960 --> 00:38:59.320
You can't just make cheese a bit like this
and call it Parmigiano Reggiano.

00:38:59.320 --> 00:39:02.200
It comes from the milk
of cows that have fed

00:39:02.200 --> 00:39:04.400
on the grass of this region,

00:39:04.400 --> 00:39:09.960
and it is made purely with that milk,
calves' rennet and salt.

00:39:09.960 --> 00:39:15.600
And even once it's been made,
it's not yet officially cheese.

00:39:15.600 --> 00:39:18.120
Not Parmigiano Reggiano, anyway.

00:39:20.200 --> 00:39:22.280
In order to qualify
as Parmigiano Reggiano,

00:39:22.280 --> 00:39:25.240
the cheese must mature
for at least 12 months

00:39:25.240 --> 00:39:27.640
and then pass an exam--

00:39:27.640 --> 00:39:31.440
their cheese C.S.E.s, if you like--
to see if they've made the grade.

00:39:31.440 --> 00:39:34.120
Here is some cheese that has passed.

00:39:34.120 --> 00:39:37.960
Here is some cheese that has passed
but is only considered second-rate.

00:39:39.120 --> 00:39:41.800
And then, over here, there is some,

00:39:41.840 --> 00:39:44.920
I'm very sorry to have to say,
failed cheese.

00:39:44.920 --> 00:39:48.160
This... Can you see how the-the rind

00:39:48.200 --> 00:39:51.320
has been scraped away
by the quality control people?

00:39:51.320 --> 00:39:53.160
This is now Italian hard cheese.

00:39:53.160 --> 00:39:56.960
Still nice, but frankly, not good enough.

00:39:56.960 --> 00:39:58.920
Not for the cheese bank.

00:40:03.160 --> 00:40:07.200
Cheese. Cheese.

00:40:07.200 --> 00:40:10.200
Yep, it's cheese.

00:40:10.200 --> 00:40:13.440
One wheel of Parmesan cheese like this

00:40:13.440 --> 00:40:17.560
is worth between three
and four hundred euros wholesale,

00:40:17.560 --> 00:40:19.960
although please do remember
that the value of your cheese

00:40:19.960 --> 00:40:22.080
can go down as well as up.

00:40:22.080 --> 00:40:24.880
The total value of the cheese in this bank

00:40:24.880 --> 00:40:27.960
is around 70 million euros,

00:40:27.960 --> 00:40:29.800
and for that reason,
there are three levels

00:40:29.800 --> 00:40:34.400
of very tight security on the building,
because, unsurprisingly,

00:40:34.400 --> 00:40:37.760
Italy does have its cheese bandits.

00:40:37.760 --> 00:40:40.880
If you can hijack and steal
an articulated lorry

00:40:40.880 --> 00:40:45.160
full of cheese, you are rich.

00:40:46.400 --> 00:40:47.720
When a cheese producer
deposits their cheese

00:40:47.720 --> 00:40:52.560
at the cheese bank,
they get a loan of 70% of its value,

00:40:52.560 --> 00:40:56.920
like selling cheese futures
or visiting a cheese pawn shop.

00:40:56.920 --> 00:40:59.400
But if it turns out your formaggio stinks,

00:40:59.400 --> 00:41:03.480
then you can end up owing
the bank quite a bit of cheddar.

00:41:05.120 --> 00:41:08.480
Giacomo, Alessandro.

00:41:08.480 --> 00:41:10.880
They are cheese testers,
and they are feared,

00:41:10.880 --> 00:41:12.480
because they have the final say,

00:41:12.480 --> 00:41:15.800
"Is this proper Parmigiano Reggiano
or is it not?"

00:41:15.800 --> 00:41:19.440
And they find this out using,
believe it or not, a hammer.

00:41:19.440 --> 00:41:21.360
But not just any old hammer,

00:41:21.360 --> 00:41:27.120
a Parmigiano Reggiano-certified
cheese hammer.

00:41:27.120 --> 00:41:28.880
The Truckle Brothers here

00:41:28.880 --> 00:41:33.320
test over a thousand cheeses a day
to ensure Parmesan perfection.

00:41:39.360 --> 00:41:41.000
Can I just try...

00:41:41.000 --> 00:41:42.680
- Yeah, sure.
- ...tapping this? Thank you.

00:41:50.360 --> 00:41:53.400
It does feel a bit like hitting
some cheese with a hammer.

00:41:53.400 --> 00:41:55.000
Doesn't it?

00:41:56.000 --> 00:41:59.960
It also sounds like
hitting cheese with a hammer,

00:41:59.960 --> 00:42:02.880
but these highly-trained
cheese whisperers can detect

00:42:02.880 --> 00:42:05.120
even the slightest defect,

00:42:05.120 --> 00:42:07.640
like an air bubble,
which affects the density

00:42:07.640 --> 00:42:09.000
and therefore quality.

00:42:09.000 --> 00:42:11.000
- Does that sound good?
- Yeah,

00:42:11.000 --> 00:42:12.880
this one sound good.

00:42:12.880 --> 00:42:14.400
- Can we put
the stamp on?
- Yeah, sure.

00:42:14.400 --> 00:42:15.760
Excellent.

00:42:18.680 --> 00:42:22.000
I've been desperate to cut the cheese
ever since I arrived here, so...

00:42:22.000 --> 00:42:24.960
I can't say that.

00:42:24.960 --> 00:42:27.360
It's a really puerile
eight-years-old's joke,

00:42:27.400 --> 00:42:30.200
but when you say "I've cut the cheese..."

00:42:31.600 --> 00:42:34.880
- ...it means "I've farted."

00:42:34.880 --> 00:42:36.600
- What's the...
- Peto.

00:42:36.600 --> 00:42:38.560
- Peto.

00:42:40.400 --> 00:42:42.920
- As soon as I arrived here this morning,

00:42:42.920 --> 00:42:44.880
I thought, "I want to cut the cheese."

00:42:44.880 --> 00:42:46.960
- Is that possible?
- Yes, of course.

00:42:46.960 --> 00:42:49.440
- Good.

00:42:50.800 --> 00:42:51.960
- Okay, go ahead.

00:42:51.960 --> 00:42:53.960
You join us at a very exciting moment.

00:42:53.960 --> 00:42:55.560
We're about to cut the cheese.

00:42:57.920 --> 00:43:00.240
I think the professionals
should take over for a bit.

00:43:00.240 --> 00:43:04.040
We cut the wheel
exactly in the middle.

00:43:05.880 --> 00:43:09.040
- What a responsibility. Here?
- Yeah.

00:43:10.320 --> 00:43:13.160
Oh, yes. It's gonna go, isn't it?

00:43:14.560 --> 00:43:17.240
Yay.

00:43:17.240 --> 00:43:20.280
Is that bit there about to fall off?

00:43:20.280 --> 00:43:21.360
Oh, it fell off.

00:43:24.320 --> 00:43:27.000
Oh, man in heaven, it is fantastic.

00:43:27.000 --> 00:43:30.600
It's got that granular thing,
but it's a bit creamy as well.

00:43:30.600 --> 00:43:35.760
Mmm, yeah, it's really,
really nice cheese.

00:43:35.760 --> 00:43:39.280
I'll just show you a few shots of
the cheese bank that you haven't seen yet,

00:43:39.280 --> 00:43:41.560
and then I'll be on my way.

00:43:46.480 --> 00:43:48.840
I'm now heading for the town of Barga,

00:43:48.840 --> 00:43:52.080
which is quite unusual
in Italy for having...

00:43:52.080 --> 00:43:53.640
well, a number of things.

00:43:53.640 --> 00:43:55.520
A Celtic supporters club

00:43:55.560 --> 00:43:57.560
and a fish and chip shop.

00:43:57.560 --> 00:44:01.640
But that's because Barga
is actually Scottish.

00:44:01.640 --> 00:44:03.240
Now, bear with me a bit on this one,

00:44:03.240 --> 00:44:06.720
but in the mid-19th century,
when Italy unified,

00:44:06.760 --> 00:44:08.560
there was a bit of a problem
with unemployment,

00:44:08.600 --> 00:44:12.840
so a lot of Italians left the country
to seek their fortunes elsewhere.

00:44:12.840 --> 00:44:14.680
Normal sort of thing.

00:44:14.680 --> 00:44:16.120
Quite a lot of them went to Britain,

00:44:16.120 --> 00:44:18.680
and quite a lot of those
ended up in Scotland.

00:44:18.680 --> 00:44:20.400
Now, about a hundred years later,

00:44:20.400 --> 00:44:24.680
a lot of those Scottish Italians
started coming back to Italy,

00:44:24.680 --> 00:44:28.720
in particular, the town of Barga,
where I'm headed now.

00:44:28.720 --> 00:44:33.480
It is, reputedly,
Italy's most Scottish town.

00:44:33.520 --> 00:44:35.520
♪ ♪

00:44:37.400 --> 00:44:40.960
Barga looks like any other
pretty Italian hilltop town.

00:44:40.960 --> 00:44:42.520
Almost.

00:44:42.520 --> 00:44:44.680
But the whole place is riddled

00:44:44.680 --> 00:44:46.360
with ambient cèilidh music.

00:44:46.360 --> 00:44:49.200
- Buonasera.
- How you doing, man?

00:44:49.200 --> 00:44:51.200
Oh, I'm doing very well.

00:44:51.200 --> 00:44:53.520
- Pleased to meet you. Marco.

00:44:53.520 --> 00:44:55.520
They're very welcoming here,
which makes me think

00:44:55.520 --> 00:44:57.800
none of them have ever
actually been to Glasgow.

00:44:57.800 --> 00:44:59.240
Good evening, Mr. May.

00:44:59.240 --> 00:45:00.280
- Good evening.
- How are you?

00:45:00.280 --> 00:45:01.760
Very well. How are you?

00:45:01.760 --> 00:45:03.560
This is very odd.

00:45:03.560 --> 00:45:05.240
Are you actually Scottish or Italian?

00:45:05.240 --> 00:45:07.720
I'm Italian, but brought to Scotland
at the age of one.

00:45:07.720 --> 00:45:09.440
This is very Scottish,
they've all started drinking

00:45:09.440 --> 00:45:10.880
at about 4:00 p.m.

00:45:10.880 --> 00:45:14.120
Most of Barga's residents
have Scottish genes,

00:45:14.120 --> 00:45:16.720
including the pub's owner Stefano,

00:45:16.720 --> 00:45:19.120
although tonight
they're wearing their kilts.

00:45:19.120 --> 00:45:20.440
In Barga, in general,

00:45:20.440 --> 00:45:22.840
people, uh, after the First World War

00:45:22.840 --> 00:45:26.720
and even after the second one,
they moved to-to Scotland.

00:45:26.720 --> 00:45:28.800
We always say in Barga,
everybody in the family has

00:45:28.800 --> 00:45:31.240
at least one Scottish relative.

00:45:31.240 --> 00:45:35.920
Without wishing to be insensitive,
back in Britain,

00:45:35.920 --> 00:45:40.360
the Scots have a reputation
for hard drinking of beer.

00:45:40.360 --> 00:45:42.880
Does that translate
to the Scottish Italians?

00:45:42.880 --> 00:45:46.000
We drink wine with the food,
and then after, we like

00:45:46.000 --> 00:45:47.960
to drink our beers,
we like to come to the pub,

00:45:47.960 --> 00:45:49.800
we like our whiskies.

00:45:49.800 --> 00:45:51.840
But the idea of standing
at a bar like this

00:45:51.840 --> 00:45:54.240
and simply drinking beer
and talking bollocks,

00:45:54.240 --> 00:45:56.680
let's be honest,
that's not particularly Italian,

00:45:56.680 --> 00:45:58.280
- is it?
- No, it's not.

00:45:58.280 --> 00:46:00.720
That's why w-we are the most
Scottish town in Italy.

00:46:00.720 --> 00:46:03.040
- Salute.
- Salute.

00:46:03.040 --> 00:46:05.080
But normally, there could be,
like, five, six hundred people

00:46:05.080 --> 00:46:06.800
outside the front.

00:46:06.800 --> 00:46:08.000
- In fact, Paolo...
- 600?

00:46:08.000 --> 00:46:09.240
- Yeah. Oh, easy.
- Really?

00:46:09.240 --> 00:46:12.000
Oh, easy. E-Even Paolo Nutini...

00:46:12.000 --> 00:46:13.840
You... I don't know
if you've heard of the singer?

00:46:13.840 --> 00:46:15.160
- Paolo...
- Yeah, yeah, yeah. Yes.

00:46:15.160 --> 00:46:16.880
He's from here and he's-he's actually

00:46:16.880 --> 00:46:18.800
- at the front every night here.
- That right?

00:46:18.800 --> 00:46:20.400
I should probably

00:46:20.400 --> 00:46:23.440
line my stomach
in the restaurant next door.

00:46:23.440 --> 00:46:26.160
As is the way of people
living far from home,

00:46:26.160 --> 00:46:29.680
the townsfolk of Barga love
to celebrate their ancient culture.

00:46:29.680 --> 00:46:33.000
♪ Let the wind blow high,
let the wind blow low ♪

00:46:33.000 --> 00:46:34.920
♪ Through the streets,
in my kilt I'll go ♪

00:46:34.920 --> 00:46:36.880
♪ And all the lassies shout "Hello!" ♪

00:46:36.880 --> 00:46:39.840
♪ Donald, where's your trousers? ♪

00:46:39.840 --> 00:46:40.920
This is fantastic.

00:46:40.920 --> 00:46:42.880
"Zuppa porri e patate."

00:46:42.880 --> 00:46:44.680
The potato soup, obviously.

00:46:44.680 --> 00:46:47.000
"Rivestito da pasta sfoglia."

00:46:47.000 --> 00:46:48.600
"Haggis."

00:46:48.600 --> 00:46:52.920
Notice, there is no Italian word
for "haggis."

00:46:52.920 --> 00:46:55.440
Now, it's not actually
Burns Night for another two months,

00:46:55.440 --> 00:46:57.600
but hey, when in Barga....

00:46:57.600 --> 00:46:59.640
This beastie here
is called a haggis,

00:46:59.640 --> 00:47:01.600
and traditionally in Scotland, uh,

00:47:01.600 --> 00:47:04.680
the animal has
to be murdered before eating it.

00:47:04.680 --> 00:47:06.440
And, uh...

00:47:06.440 --> 00:47:09.280
when we do that,
we always recite a beautiful poem

00:47:09.280 --> 00:47:10.640
written by Robert Burns.

00:47:10.680 --> 00:47:13.520
And tonight, our guest of honor James May

00:47:13.520 --> 00:47:15.280
is going to read that poem to us.

00:47:15.280 --> 00:47:18.120
- Grazie mcmille.

00:47:20.880 --> 00:47:23.080
Fair fa'
your honest, sonsie face,

00:47:23.080 --> 00:47:27.000
Great Chieftain o' the Puddin-race.

00:47:27.000 --> 00:47:31.720
His knife see Rustic-labour dight,

00:47:31.720 --> 00:47:35.560
An' cut ye up wi' ready slight,

00:47:35.560 --> 00:47:40.400
Trenching your gushing entrails bright...

00:47:40.400 --> 00:47:43.600
- Hang on.

00:47:43.600 --> 00:47:45.480
- There you can see, yeah.

00:47:45.480 --> 00:47:48.600
But if ye wish her grateful prayer,

00:47:48.600 --> 00:47:50.720
Gie her a Haggis!

00:47:56.600 --> 00:47:58.520
Of all
the places to look

00:47:58.520 --> 00:48:00.200
for la dolce vita,

00:48:00.200 --> 00:48:01.680
I wouldn't have chosen Scotland.

00:48:03.000 --> 00:48:06.440
I said I wouldn't have chosen Scotland!

00:48:06.440 --> 00:48:08.840
But I think these guys have found it.

00:48:08.840 --> 00:48:10.880
Well, I hope this episode
has been as enjoyable

00:48:10.880 --> 00:48:13.240
to watch as it has been for us to make,

00:48:13.240 --> 00:48:15.680
because it's been
a proper Renaissance experience.

00:48:15.680 --> 00:48:18.360
We've had natural history
on the bike ride,

00:48:18.360 --> 00:48:20.600
we've had art with drawing and painting,

00:48:20.600 --> 00:48:23.280
a bit of cooking, a bit of science,

00:48:23.280 --> 00:48:25.200
some music at the opera house,

00:48:25.200 --> 00:48:26.960
and if it all gets a bit too much,

00:48:26.960 --> 00:48:29.640
you can just come to Barga
and round off your experience

00:48:29.640 --> 00:48:33.680
by being Scottish in the rain,
which is tremendous.

00:48:33.680 --> 00:48:37.040
So, I'd just like to say
arrivederci for now,

00:48:37.040 --> 00:48:41.600
and buonanotte the noo.

00:48:41.600 --> 00:48:44.560
Thank you for watching.

00:48:44.560 --> 00:48:47.760
Oh, bollocks, I need a piss.

00:48:50.640 --> 00:48:53.680
Now, the keen-eared among you

00:48:53.680 --> 00:48:55.480
may have just heard me mention opera.

00:49:00.840 --> 00:49:02.840
♪ ♪

00:49:08.520 --> 00:49:10.480
Cheese.

00:49:10.480 --> 00:49:14.680
Cheese. Cheese.

00:49:14.680 --> 00:49:17.120
Cheese? Cheese.

00:49:17.120 --> 00:49:19.200
Yep, it's cheese.

00:49:19.200 --> 00:49:21.520
This is cheese.

00:49:21.520 --> 00:49:25.680
Cheese. Cheese.

00:49:25.680 --> 00:49:27.880
Cheese.

00:49:27.920 --> 00:49:31.320
Really, really nice cheese.