WEBVTT

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Grrr. No presents for you,
you little .

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This time on Il Nostro Uomo in Italia,

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flying low...

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We're now only about 80 feet

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from that mountain, rather alarmingly.

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…playing with dough...

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Cute/creepy.

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…and look out below.

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If you're thinking
of taking up woodcarving,

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remember always
to cut towards your own *.

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♪ ♪

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Ciao, gente,

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and welcome to the final installment
of our Italian opus.

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We're getting very close
to the top of Italy, and you can tell.

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I've become fat,
my car is full of all sorts of junk.

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What is there? There's clothing,

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there are two coats in there,
a rucksack, another rucksack.

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I-I don't know whose that is.

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Uh, everything really, except my phone
charging cable, which is in the hotel.

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With my Panda packed with more
meaningless crap than TikTok,

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the last thing I need is more stuff.

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So let's go shopping.

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♪ ♪

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What you're about
to see is what happens

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when the least fashionable man
in Europe

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arrives in the most fashionable city
in Europe.

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Well, viewers, I'm afraid
this moment simply had to come.

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I've been through Sicily,
I've been through the toe,

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the heel and the instep of Italy,
the ankle bone,

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the lace eyelet and the shinpad.

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But now we are in Milan, the...

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Style Centre of the World

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...and I'm required to go shopping.

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Some people here think
that my appearance can be improved.

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Milan is at the top of Italy's femur,

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near the impending hip replacement.

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It's home to 1.4 million people,

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numerous fashion houses,
and, unfortunately for me,

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a pair of personal stylists
called Nicola and Elena.

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So you have one hour
to make me... transform me

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into a stylish Italian man
from a stylish English man.

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- Okay.
- Yes. We thought, uh...

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I think you have to change your shirt.

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- It's quite old. And it's not...
- Old?

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- Yeah, there was a hole.
- 18 years old.

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- Hole?
- Hole, yeah.

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- Yes, it's got a hole in it.
It has character.
- Oh, no.

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- Maybe.
- Maybe.

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- All right, fine.
- Yeah.

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Now, it might surprise you,

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but I've never needed
a personal shopper before

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as I've always had a good idea

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of what's what in the world
of what's hot and what's not.

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- I like this.
- No.

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Oh, no, no.

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- Why not? I think this is fantastic!
- Not elegant.

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No.

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- So, that's kind of...
- No.

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- Those are quite nice.
- No! No, no, no, no.
- Dark gray.

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- No, no, no.
- No.
- No?

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- What about that?
- No.

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I'll tell you what.
Why don't you go and find things

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that you think are right for me?
I will go and choose some things

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that I think are right for me.

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And then we can compare,
and then you can laugh at them.

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- Okay, right.
- Okay, perfect.
- Okay. Right.

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In three, two, one... go.

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That's more like it. A nice cuddly jummy.

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This is 48.

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No, he's more like 50, him...

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Come on. That's quite cool.

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Or is it a bit… is it a bit Grandpa?

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On the other hand,
white accentuates his, erm...

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- His belly.
- Mm.

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Let's see how tight...

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Rather tight.

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But he doesn't have big legs,
I don't think?

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It's sort of knitted camouflage. What?

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- It's got a bad face from Tom.

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- Okay.
- So this one will go with that...

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Jacket, this one.

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but modelling this season's
Giacomo di Maggio, it's me.

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- Oh. It's…
- Oh, my God.

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The first look fusing
urban street and tea cozy chic.

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- Good?
- No.
- Not good.

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Next up,
I'm pairing mustard with milk.

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- There?
- Oh. Oh, my God.

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- No yellow. No!
- Yellow.

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- For your skin, for your eyes.
- You're like… You're...

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- Yellow...
- No.

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But also, your face is yellow.

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- My face is yellow?
- Yeah.

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- Oh, yeah. No good.
- Yeah.

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My autumn winter collection is
getting something of a frosty reception.

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Here we go with green again.

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- That's a no, isn't it?
- No.

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Right, I've run out of clothes to show
you now, you'll be delighted to know.

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Can I see your selections, please?

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- Oh, yes, um...
- Our selection, I think, is better.

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- Oh. Very nice.
- Nice.

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- Good?
- Yes.
- Mm-hmm.

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- He's coming. Oh.
- Oh.

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Right. It's very cool.

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- Very nice.
- They know what they are doing,
don't they? That's really annoying.

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I'm so curious.

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Me too.

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- Oh.

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- Amazing.
- That's good.

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- Mm.
- It's good.

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- Hi.
- Italian man.

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I'm going to have to admit, after years
of being very cynical and sniffy

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about personal shopping
and all that,

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you may have a point.

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Uh, molto grazie.

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I shall now put my pink

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and purple-striped rugby shirt
of doom back on,

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and we'll, um, go for lunch,
everybody, yes?

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- Yep.
- Excellent.

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Nicola and Elena were over the moon
I liked their style choices.

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Anyone would think they were
on commission or something.

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Now, this region is Lombardy,

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the birthplace of Virgil,
Pliny the Elder, Pope John XXIII

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and Gorgonzola cheese.

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"Lombardy" roughly
translates as "long beard."

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"Distinguished goatee" also acceptable.

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A cardinal's hat is all right
and all that, but a beretta is better.

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Now, the beretta in that little ditty,
origin uncertain, refers, of course,

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to another type of hat.

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It's a sort of pointy cornered hat
worn by the Catholic clergy.

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Whereas this
is the headquarters of Beretta,

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the world's oldest manufacturer of guns.

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So the cardinal's hat
is not one he would doff,

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but with an over and under,
I could shoot it clean off.

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With nearly 500 years of gun-making
expertise under their holsters,

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Beretta have supplied arms
for every major European war since 1650,

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and a Beretta is often Hollywood's pistol
of choice in films such as Lethal Weapon,

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Lethal Weapon 2, 3 and 4.

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But today, I'm looking for something
a bit more sporting.

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These are the…
the bespoke firearms of Beretta.

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These are handmade
by people in aprons with files,

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and there are some lathes, as well,

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and there's a lot of woodworking
and polishing. It's all just...

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It's everything you expect
about something Italian.

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It's functional,
and it's beautiful at the same time.

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The Beretta family have been overseeing
production for 15 generations.

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Here's their latest model,
the Franco Beretta...

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also known as the CEO.

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The thing I really like about shotguns…
Well, there's two things.

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One is that it-it combines two things
I really like: metalwork and woodwork.

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So it's very exciting.

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The shotguns are beautiful,

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- but the components
are beautiful, as well.
- Yeah.

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Can we look at some of these?

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- Sure. Sure.
- I don't want to disturb

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these men at work.

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These are ateliers,
craftsmen of the highest order.

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If you're in the market
for a handmade firearm, it'll cost you

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an arm and a leg.

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Or they will accept £100,000.

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And, uh, this is a characteristic.

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- It is a side lock that opens up.
- Oh.

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- So, uh...
- I've never seen that.

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That is spectac...
Can I see that again?

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- So I simply press close?
- Sure. Yeah, yeah.

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And then to open, donk!

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There it is. There is the side lock
mechanism in there.

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Normally, you would take a plate off to
get to the… to the action to maintain it,

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lubricate it, and so on,
but this has been designed

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so that it sort of pops open
like Thunderbirds.

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Fabulous. Grazie mille.

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Whoa. Right. What's next? Wood?

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- We go to the wood?
- Yeah, let's look at some wood.

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Over the last five and a bit episodes,

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I've been battered almost unconscious
by all this incredible Italian artistry,

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and I've reached a conclusion.

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Do you think the whole world
secretly wants to be Italian?

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Maybe.

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Only the Italian
don't want to be Italian.

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Is that right? Why is that?
Are they fed up with it?

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Yeah, because somehow,
it's the most beautiful place to visit,

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but to live, sometimes,
it's kind of complicated,

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- but, uh, with all our accounts...
- It is complicated.

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Yeah, it's complicated because,
on one…. on a very high level,

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it's disorganized,

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but at a… at the minute level,

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like this, where you're making something,

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- it's extremely well sorted out
and organized.
- Yeah.

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♪ ♪

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Once all these beautifully
handcrafted components are assembled,

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they're often bought by people
with arguably more money than taste,

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…could I ask for a shotgun
to be engraved

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- with my own face, or…?
- Absolutely.

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Most of the requests
are either a hunting scene,

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but then, there is some customer

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that they really like something
like themself.

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Each request for us is a challenge,
and we like challenges.

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And speaking of challenges,

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there's an Olympian-shaped one
waiting for me

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out on the shooting range.

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This is Silvana. Buon giorno...
Buonasera, I should say.

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Uh, she's part of the Italian
national trapshooting team,

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and she competed
at the Olympics in Tokyo.

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So we're going to have a first to ten...

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- Mm-hmm.
- ...competition?

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Let's do it.

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Yes, viewers,
shooting is yet another sport

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the Italians are really good at,

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topping the medal table
at the Rio Olympics

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and producing multiple world champions.

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- Pull.

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Mind you,
I wasn't available for Rio.

00:10:53.000 --> 00:10:55.600
- Pull.

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As I said earlier, a Beretta is better.
And they make even an amateur

00:10:59.840 --> 00:11:03.120
- look really good.

00:11:03.200 --> 00:11:05.800
- Does the "err"
mean you've missed?
- Means missed, yes.

00:11:05.880 --> 00:11:08.160
- "Err" means missed?

00:11:08.240 --> 00:11:10.760
- Pull.

00:11:10.840 --> 00:11:13.480
- Pull.

00:11:14.800 --> 00:11:16.560
All right.

00:11:16.640 --> 00:11:18.600
- What's the score?
- 9-3.

00:11:18.680 --> 00:11:20.000
Right, so I've got to hit everything

00:11:20.080 --> 00:11:21.600
and you've got to miss everything.

00:11:22.840 --> 00:11:25.040
♪ ♪

00:11:29.200 --> 00:11:30.360
Pull.

00:11:32.960 --> 00:11:35.160
- Pull.

00:11:43.440 --> 00:11:45.760
And not for the first time,
England lose to Italy

00:11:45.840 --> 00:11:47.760
in a shoot-out.

00:11:47.840 --> 00:11:50.200
But anyway, this is actually
just a ruse so I can address

00:11:50.280 --> 00:11:52.840
some unfinished business.

00:11:52.920 --> 00:11:54.880
Okay, you've won. Congratulations.

00:11:54.960 --> 00:11:57.280
- Thank you.
- There's just one more
special target for me.

00:11:57.360 --> 00:11:58.560
- Is that okay?
- Okay.

00:12:01.320 --> 00:12:03.200
Bim, guess what?

00:12:03.280 --> 00:12:06.160
Shija-Ohashi is a bridge
representative of Kyoto...

00:12:06.240 --> 00:12:08.800
that crosses the Kamo River
over Shijo Street.

00:12:14.160 --> 00:12:16.200
I thought
it was called Gion-bashi.

00:12:19.640 --> 00:12:23.920
Now, viewers, as you well know by now,
I'm like a kid in a sweetshop

00:12:24.000 --> 00:12:25.960
if I can get stuck
into making something.

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Unfortunately, Tom the director
has taken that quite literally.

00:12:31.200 --> 00:12:34.840
This is the world's epicenter of nougat.

00:12:34.920 --> 00:12:37.920
If you're lucky enough not to have
been affected by nougat before,

00:12:38.000 --> 00:12:39.960
here's what it is.

00:12:40.040 --> 00:12:42.000
This is Italian nougat.

00:12:42.080 --> 00:12:44.120
It's a special traditional sweet.

00:12:44.200 --> 00:12:46.640
It is made with whipped white eggs,

00:12:46.720 --> 00:12:50.960
honey and a lot of roasted almonds.

00:12:51.040 --> 00:12:54.120
Now in my own personal
confectioner's coat,

00:12:54.200 --> 00:12:56.840
it was time to get hands-on.

00:12:56.920 --> 00:13:00.040
We know from my experience
making pizza...

00:13:00.120 --> 00:13:01.840
- Stick to your hands.
- ...that things stick to my hands, yes.

00:13:06.280 --> 00:13:08.160
Have we got lots of material
for this episode?

00:13:08.240 --> 00:13:10.160
'Cause we can, we can spin this out a bit.

00:13:10.240 --> 00:13:12.320
And spin it out we did.

00:13:12.400 --> 00:13:15.880
On the way in, those almonds did say
that they liked my new shoes,

00:13:15.960 --> 00:13:17.880
but that's 'cause they were
complimentary nuts.

00:13:17.960 --> 00:13:19.280
Ha, ha, ha.

00:13:22.600 --> 00:13:27.040
They also make nougat cakes
weighing a mere four kilos,

00:13:27.120 --> 00:13:29.760
which they adorn with nuts
and marzipan fruits.

00:13:29.840 --> 00:13:33.160
Try to shape it in a round way.

00:13:33.240 --> 00:13:35.960
I decided to make a snowman...

00:13:36.040 --> 00:13:37.800
That looks slightly sinister.

00:13:37.880 --> 00:13:39.440
...who was less Frosty...

00:13:39.520 --> 00:13:40.680
It is still cute.

00:13:40.760 --> 00:13:42.200
...more Abominable.

00:13:42.280 --> 00:13:43.280
Cute/creepy.

00:13:44.800 --> 00:13:46.480
Now, I know
what you're thinking, viewers,

00:13:46.560 --> 00:13:48.200
how on earth do you top that?

00:13:53.720 --> 00:13:57.640
Well, nearby is a town
that only allows visitors

00:13:57.720 --> 00:13:59.320
in new Italian jumpers.

00:13:59.400 --> 00:14:01.840
This is Cremona.

00:14:01.920 --> 00:14:03.800
It's a rather unassuming town,

00:14:03.880 --> 00:14:06.280
roughly east-southeast of Milan.

00:14:06.360 --> 00:14:10.080
But it did produce
two famous families, two dynasties,

00:14:10.160 --> 00:14:13.680
the Amatis and the Stradivaris,
and they grew to prominence

00:14:13.760 --> 00:14:18.880
as makers of stringed musical instruments,
most particularly violins.

00:14:18.960 --> 00:14:22.000
So what we are going to do next
is something that combines

00:14:22.080 --> 00:14:26.600
two things I really love:
violin playing and woodwork.

00:14:26.680 --> 00:14:29.720
Two things, actually,
that the crew find rather boring.

00:14:29.800 --> 00:14:31.360
It's possible you will find this

00:14:31.440 --> 00:14:33.640
sort of thing boring as well,
but to be honest,

00:14:33.720 --> 00:14:36.760
I'm almost 59 years old
and I really don't give a f...

00:14:45.840 --> 00:14:49.080
Cremona is the spiritual home
of the violin,

00:14:49.160 --> 00:14:53.640
and there are still around 160 workshops
making them to this day.

00:14:53.720 --> 00:14:57.160
That's roughly one
for every 462 residents,

00:14:57.240 --> 00:15:00.760
and here's one called Alessandro
practicing right now.

00:15:00.840 --> 00:15:02.840
♪ ♪

00:15:15.440 --> 00:15:17.080
Bravo. Fantastic.

00:15:17.160 --> 00:15:19.600
May I touch it?

00:15:22.480 --> 00:15:24.240
This is a new violin?

00:15:24.320 --> 00:15:26.480
It's a new violin, 2020.

00:15:26.560 --> 00:15:27.640
New violin made here,

00:15:27.720 --> 00:15:32.040
and it is a thing
of fragile, aching beauty...

00:15:32.120 --> 00:15:33.600
Actually, it's not really
particularly fragile,

00:15:33.680 --> 00:15:37.120
they are strong as hell,
but everything about that shape

00:15:37.200 --> 00:15:41.080
is the way it is
for purely pragmatic reasons.

00:15:41.160 --> 00:15:46.560
The cutouts for the bow,
the swollen belly of the instrument,

00:15:46.640 --> 00:15:49.000
for strength and resonance,
the shininess of the varnish,

00:15:49.080 --> 00:15:53.280
all of it is about music,
not actually art,

00:15:53.360 --> 00:15:56.000
and yet i-it's just fantastic.

00:15:56.080 --> 00:15:59.040
The apogee of woodworking
is musical instrument making,

00:15:59.120 --> 00:16:01.600
and the apogee of woodworking
and musical instrument making

00:16:01.680 --> 00:16:03.160
is violin making.

00:16:03.240 --> 00:16:06.400
It's pure, it's Pythagorean
in its function.

00:16:06.480 --> 00:16:10.800
It is possibly one of the most
important things ever created.

00:16:10.880 --> 00:16:12.080
It's amazing.

00:16:14.800 --> 00:16:17.240
An original Stradivarius violin

00:16:17.320 --> 00:16:20.480
can set you back around £16 million.

00:16:20.560 --> 00:16:23.360
Look at me, James. Slow.

00:16:23.440 --> 00:16:25.480
But local luthiers
Marco and Vincenzo

00:16:25.560 --> 00:16:30.240
can knock you up a more affordable model
for just 16,000.

00:16:30.320 --> 00:16:33.600
Slow, slow,

00:16:33.680 --> 00:16:35.920
because the wood is fragile.

00:16:36.000 --> 00:16:38.360
You're talking to the right man.

00:16:38.440 --> 00:16:42.080
Oh, you can feel it submitting.

00:16:42.160 --> 00:16:44.400
Yes, yes, we all know I love wood.

00:16:44.480 --> 00:16:48.680
But did you know
of my keen interest in plane spotting?

00:16:48.760 --> 00:16:51.520
Ooh, that's a very tiny plane.

00:16:51.560 --> 00:16:53.120
If you saw this lying around,
you'd think,

00:16:53.200 --> 00:16:55.280
"Oh, that's fallen off
somebody's charm bracelet."

00:16:55.360 --> 00:16:57.280
Here we are.

00:16:57.360 --> 00:17:00.240
That is a plane.

00:17:00.280 --> 00:17:02.000
Bit of a bugger to sharpen, I reckon.

00:17:02.040 --> 00:17:05.800
That is a plane, and that is also a plane.

00:17:05.880 --> 00:17:08.280
That is exquisite.

00:17:08.360 --> 00:17:10.720
Anyway, back to the violin.

00:17:10.800 --> 00:17:13.880
The swirly bit at the top
of the violin is the scroll,

00:17:13.960 --> 00:17:16.560
which serves no real purpose
other than to look good

00:17:16.640 --> 00:17:18.560
and show off the skills of the maker,

00:17:18.640 --> 00:17:20.480
which, right now, is me.

00:17:23.800 --> 00:17:24.800
- Oh, Jesus.
- Wow.

00:17:24.920 --> 00:17:26.400
- Wonderful, wonderful.
- Leave that in the edit.

00:17:26.480 --> 00:17:28.800
The master violin maker
looked at my handiwork

00:17:28.880 --> 00:17:30.280
and said, "That's wonderful."

00:17:30.360 --> 00:17:32.240
Leave that in.
You can delete the rest of the program.

00:17:32.280 --> 00:17:35.680
That doesn't matter,
but leave that bit in, okay?

00:17:35.760 --> 00:17:38.240
- Yes, yeah, yeah.
- Good, good.

00:17:42.480 --> 00:17:46.160
How long does it take to make one violin
if you just make it by yourself?

00:17:46.240 --> 00:17:48.480
200 hours.

00:17:48.560 --> 00:17:50.160
200 hours,

00:17:50.240 --> 00:17:51.920
all by hand.

00:17:52.000 --> 00:17:53.400
That's amazing.

00:18:01.040 --> 00:18:05.560
Well, there you are, freshly strung,
the Bissolotti Stradivarius model.

00:18:05.640 --> 00:18:08.120
That's the original man back there.

00:18:08.200 --> 00:18:11.720
It's absolutely fantastic.

00:18:11.800 --> 00:18:13.440
Shall we see what it sounds like?

00:18:15.440 --> 00:18:16.960
No, because the player
has gone home.

00:18:17.040 --> 00:18:19.480
- Okay, it, then.

00:18:25.280 --> 00:18:28.000
The following morning,
mia Panda and I leave Lombardy

00:18:28.040 --> 00:18:30.960
to head northeast into the Veneto region,

00:18:31.040 --> 00:18:34.160
famous for baroque composer
Antonio Vivaldi,

00:18:34.240 --> 00:18:38.040
Valpolicella
and the floating city of Venice.

00:18:38.120 --> 00:18:42.160
Oh, hang on, the car
is not gonna work there, is it?

00:18:42.240 --> 00:18:44.400
Luckily, there are alternatives.

00:18:46.440 --> 00:18:48.040
♪ ♪

00:18:50.800 --> 00:18:55.040
There's nothing quite like taking in
Antonio's hometown from the air,

00:18:55.120 --> 00:19:00.160
in your own private helicopter
with a 30-piece orchestra in the boot.

00:19:00.240 --> 00:19:02.560
The thing that still really
amazes me about Venice

00:19:02.640 --> 00:19:05.520
is that it shouldn't really be here.

00:19:05.560 --> 00:19:08.200
It was only established
because people from the mainland

00:19:08.280 --> 00:19:11.800
were fleeing all the hordes of vagabonds

00:19:11.880 --> 00:19:14.680
that emerged after the collapse
of the Roman Empire.

00:19:14.760 --> 00:19:16.880
They went out to live on the mud
because they thought nobody

00:19:16.960 --> 00:19:20.960
would bother them,
and then they ended up with this.

00:19:24.880 --> 00:19:28.520
Incredibly, the city rests
on 1.1 million logs,

00:19:28.560 --> 00:19:32.640
which the settlers had lopped down
and lugged back from Eastern Europe.

00:19:32.720 --> 00:19:35.240
By the 13th century,
Venice's strategic position

00:19:35.280 --> 00:19:38.280
made it a major trading port
and, consequently,

00:19:38.400 --> 00:19:42.160
the richest and most powerful
city-state in the world.

00:19:45.400 --> 00:19:47.880
This place was so rich,

00:19:47.960 --> 00:19:51.680
that some people gilded
the outside of their houses.

00:19:55.880 --> 00:19:58.280
The density of
historical interest in Venice

00:19:58.400 --> 00:20:01.120
far outstrips that
of any other historic city.

00:20:01.200 --> 00:20:04.440
In 20 meters,
you've got the stuff of ten PhDs.

00:20:04.520 --> 00:20:06.280
It's incredible.

00:20:11.920 --> 00:20:14.760
No one expects you to have
your own helicopter, though.

00:20:14.800 --> 00:20:17.640
Most people travel to Venice
by boat from the mainland

00:20:17.720 --> 00:20:19.400
via the Grand Canal,

00:20:19.480 --> 00:20:23.920
but by far the best way
to explore is on foot.

00:20:24.000 --> 00:20:26.200
Allow me to demonstrate.

00:20:26.280 --> 00:20:29.760
I am currently here on the bridge
near the railway station,

00:20:29.800 --> 00:20:31.560
and I'm gonna take a walk through Venice.

00:20:31.640 --> 00:20:34.040
Now, I'm not gonna use this map,
and before you suggest it,

00:20:34.160 --> 00:20:36.160
no, I'm not gonna use
my smartphone, either,

00:20:36.240 --> 00:20:37.680
because when you're down
these narrow streets,

00:20:37.760 --> 00:20:39.120
it really doesn't work properly.

00:20:39.200 --> 00:20:42.560
I know that if I head
roughly in that direction,

00:20:42.640 --> 00:20:46.120
I will eventually get to the Rialto,
which is a great landmark,

00:20:46.200 --> 00:20:49.040
and then the massive basilica
with four horses outside it

00:20:49.160 --> 00:20:51.040
and a huge tower next door.

00:20:51.160 --> 00:20:55.800
It's an opportunity to get a bit lost,
wander around the small streets of Venice

00:20:55.880 --> 00:20:57.560
and have an adventure.

00:20:57.680 --> 00:20:59.680
Let's do that.

00:21:00.640 --> 00:21:02.480
Wrong way!

00:21:02.560 --> 00:21:04.040
I know.

00:21:06.800 --> 00:21:10.960
Venice is known as one of
the most romantic cities in the world

00:21:11.040 --> 00:21:13.240
by people who don't have
a film crew in tow.

00:21:13.280 --> 00:21:15.280
Uh, let me just orientate myself.

00:21:15.360 --> 00:21:20.280
So, over the bridge,
Saint Mark's is roughly there.

00:21:20.360 --> 00:21:22.440
We can have a nice walk
alongside this canal

00:21:22.520 --> 00:21:25.280
and then choose an attractive bridge
to cross over again.

00:21:25.360 --> 00:21:26.760
This way.

00:21:29.560 --> 00:21:32.680
Called the "City of Bridges,"

00:21:32.760 --> 00:21:35.120
Venice has 435.

00:21:35.200 --> 00:21:36.920
That's 11 fewer than Pittsburgh,

00:21:37.000 --> 00:21:39.960
which is also called
"the City of Bridges."

00:21:40.040 --> 00:21:44.080
Now, I know I'm just a dewy-eyed tourist,
but crossing this little bridge

00:21:44.160 --> 00:21:46.600
is better than going over
a zebra crossing, isn't it?

00:21:46.680 --> 00:21:48.880
It's just nicer.

00:21:48.960 --> 00:21:52.000
Even the graffiti here is a bit classy.

00:21:52.080 --> 00:21:53.880
Well, most of it.

00:21:55.760 --> 00:21:59.120
Now I've got a bit of a choice here,
because there's that one,

00:21:59.200 --> 00:22:02.520
and some people have just gone down it,
but it looks a little bit murdery to me.

00:22:02.600 --> 00:22:04.920
Or this one.

00:22:05.000 --> 00:22:07.400
At the moment, they're both
going in the same direction.

00:22:09.400 --> 00:22:11.840
I think it's this one.

00:22:11.920 --> 00:22:13.520
Let's go.

00:22:16.160 --> 00:22:19.000
Ah, you see, there's some
traditional Venetian laundry.

00:22:19.080 --> 00:22:21.200
Hang on a minute.

00:22:23.440 --> 00:22:26.040
Right. I told you it wasn't this one.

00:22:26.120 --> 00:22:28.040
Let's try the other one.

00:22:28.120 --> 00:22:30.280
- Could it be one
that the people went down?
- Yeah, could be.

00:22:34.760 --> 00:22:37.720
Top tip for wandering
around Venice like a half-wit,

00:22:37.800 --> 00:22:40.800
if you end up suspiciously alone,

00:22:40.880 --> 00:22:43.120
you're probably going the wrong way.

00:22:43.200 --> 00:22:46.560
Because the right way
always has some people on it.

00:22:54.400 --> 00:22:57.520
I'm assuming that is actually
a venetian blind.

00:22:57.600 --> 00:23:01.360
Like every other venetian blind
in the world, it's slightly broken.

00:23:03.360 --> 00:23:07.960
After two hours, I finally make it
to the famous Ponte di Rialto,

00:23:08.040 --> 00:23:11.680
named after its architect
Antonio da Ponte.

00:23:11.760 --> 00:23:15.560
You see, it's easy.
There are signposts everywhere.

00:23:18.560 --> 00:23:20.480
"In sooth, I know not why I am so sad.

00:23:20.560 --> 00:23:22.080
It wearies me; you say it wearies you.

00:23:22.160 --> 00:23:24.440
But what stuff 'tis made of
and whereof 'tis born

00:23:24.520 --> 00:23:27.160
I am to learn, and such
a want-wit sadness makes of me

00:23:27.240 --> 00:23:29.640
I have much ado to know myself,"
et cetera.

00:23:33.160 --> 00:23:34.920
So, there you go,
I've successfully made it

00:23:35.000 --> 00:23:38.920
to Saint Mark's Basilica,
so this is Saint Mark's Square.

00:23:39.000 --> 00:23:41.760
After walking each of Venice's
labyrinthine passages

00:23:41.840 --> 00:23:43.560
at least three times over,

00:23:43.640 --> 00:23:47.960
I am, as the locals might say,
molto knackeredo.

00:23:48.040 --> 00:23:50.360
Luckily, there's a taxi rank nearby.

00:23:51.440 --> 00:23:53.280
Now, I've been on taxi rides

00:23:53.360 --> 00:23:57.040
through some pretty incredible cities
in the world, like New York, Paris,

00:23:57.120 --> 00:24:01.720
Kolkata, Tokyo, and they were good.

00:24:01.800 --> 00:24:03.200
But this is better.

00:24:10.400 --> 00:24:14.120
As stunning as it is,
Venice has been in economic decline

00:24:14.200 --> 00:24:18.080
since the 17th century,
and its future is uncertain.

00:24:18.160 --> 00:24:21.000
It's falling to bits,
it's supposedly sinking,

00:24:21.080 --> 00:24:24.120
it costs a huge amount of money
to maintain.

00:24:24.200 --> 00:24:26.560
Most significantly, though,
is the population.

00:24:26.640 --> 00:24:29.440
In my lifetime, it has halved,

00:24:29.520 --> 00:24:34.240
and the Venetians that remain here
despise the tourist trade.

00:24:34.320 --> 00:24:37.480
Venice, all three square miles of it,

00:24:37.560 --> 00:24:42.080
attracts a staggering
25 million tourists a year,

00:24:42.160 --> 00:24:44.600
outnumbering the locals 500 to one.

00:24:46.160 --> 00:24:50.720
Until recently, up to 6,000 tourists
arrived per day on cruise ships,

00:24:50.800 --> 00:24:53.480
so, understandably,
many remaining residents--

00:24:53.560 --> 00:24:55.760
like the one I've just boat-napped--

00:24:55.840 --> 00:24:58.640
feel their home is being
treated like Disneyland.

00:24:59.880 --> 00:25:01.800
You are a true Venetian.

00:25:01.880 --> 00:25:03.240
Yeah, one of the last.

00:25:03.320 --> 00:25:06.280
We are now, like, uh, 50,000.

00:25:06.360 --> 00:25:09.200
The problem seems
to me, that, obviously,

00:25:09.280 --> 00:25:11.800
Venice was once the most
powerful place on Earth,

00:25:11.880 --> 00:25:17.200
but its reason for existence now
is to be Venice.

00:25:17.280 --> 00:25:19.680
It can't...

00:25:19.760 --> 00:25:21.920
Is that an unkind thing to...
You looked cross there

00:25:22.000 --> 00:25:24.040
- when I said...
- Yeah. Yeah.

00:25:24.120 --> 00:25:27.040
T-The... Venice, um,

00:25:27.120 --> 00:25:31.040
the Venetian in this period,
uh, living on tourism.

00:25:31.120 --> 00:25:33.360
Does the tourism annoy you?

00:25:33.440 --> 00:25:36.520
What was your view
on the cruise ships, for example?

00:25:36.600 --> 00:25:38.120
We should point out,
in case you don't know,

00:25:38.200 --> 00:25:40.040
cruise ships came here
for many, many years

00:25:40.120 --> 00:25:41.640
and moored right in the Lagoon.

00:25:41.720 --> 00:25:44.200
But then there was a decision taken
to ban them.

00:25:44.280 --> 00:25:46.000
I don't like t-the cruise ships,

00:25:46.080 --> 00:25:49.840
but I understand that a lot of persons

00:25:49.920 --> 00:25:53.800
are living on that type of tourism.

00:25:53.880 --> 00:25:57.400
If Venice isn't
sustained by tourist dollars,

00:25:57.480 --> 00:25:59.040
how will it sustain itself?

00:25:59.120 --> 00:26:03.000
Because I know it's a very, very expensive

00:26:03.080 --> 00:26:06.760
- maintenance and upkeep job. So...
- Yeah, this is the point.

00:26:06.840 --> 00:26:10.360
This is the point. It's really hard, uh,

00:26:10.440 --> 00:26:15.720
to find a job in the city
and don't work with tourists.

00:26:19.200 --> 00:26:20.640
Well, you hear this everywhere:

00:26:20.720 --> 00:26:23.440
"Oh, it's so touristy."
And here I am, a tourist,

00:26:23.520 --> 00:26:25.440
promoting tourism.

00:26:25.520 --> 00:26:27.360
Perhaps I'm the enemy.

00:26:27.440 --> 00:26:31.160
To find out, I'd better eat some
immature cephalopods with some locals.

00:26:31.240 --> 00:26:33.120
Baby squid?

00:26:33.200 --> 00:26:34.680
Uh, I would love
a baby squid, yes.

00:26:34.760 --> 00:26:38.960
What really reassures me
about this is we've, um,

00:26:39.040 --> 00:26:41.520
we've come here to discuss
a very serious subject,

00:26:41.600 --> 00:26:44.480
the fate of one of the world's
most famous cities,

00:26:44.560 --> 00:26:47.240
but because you're Italians,
you're already talking about food.

00:26:48.720 --> 00:26:51.480
Is Venice in peril?

00:26:51.560 --> 00:26:53.600
Yes, because we like tourists of course...

00:26:53.680 --> 00:26:55.680
everybody needs tourism, we need to live.

00:26:55.760 --> 00:26:58.520
But the massive tourism
coming from cruises...

00:26:58.600 --> 00:26:59.520
they just come for one day.

00:26:59.600 --> 00:27:02.600
They eat in the cruise,
they sleep in the cruises.

00:27:02.680 --> 00:27:04.480
That is the one the we don't need.

00:27:04.560 --> 00:27:06.600
We know Venice needs tourists.

00:27:06.680 --> 00:27:10.640
But over tourism is killing Venice.

00:27:10.720 --> 00:27:12.240
It is true that if you,
you know, you hang around

00:27:12.320 --> 00:27:14.640
by the Rialto and the banks
of the Grand Canal,

00:27:14.720 --> 00:27:18.040
it is very touristy,
there's a lot of souvenirs

00:27:18.120 --> 00:27:20.360
that have come from other parts
of the world, let's say.

00:27:20.440 --> 00:27:21.440
Fascinating.

00:27:22.720 --> 00:27:23.960
In high season,

00:27:24.040 --> 00:27:25.920
many of the city's squares are overrun

00:27:26.000 --> 00:27:28.720
by market stalls selling plastic tat,

00:27:28.800 --> 00:27:34.000
which often ends up as rubbish,
so it's no surprise the locals are fed up.

00:27:34.120 --> 00:27:37.080
But what other reason is there
to come to Venice?

00:27:37.160 --> 00:27:39.120
It's not going to become a tech center.

00:27:39.200 --> 00:27:41.480
It's not gonna be full of hipsters,

00:27:41.560 --> 00:27:45.600
you know, working on apps, is it?

00:27:48.600 --> 00:27:51.600
That was quite good,
the timing of the bridge.

00:27:55.920 --> 00:28:00.080
The following morning, I decide
to head back out on the water,

00:28:00.160 --> 00:28:03.400
but maybe I should've checked
the weather forecast.

00:28:03.480 --> 00:28:06.880
Well, as you can see, it's a bit
of a rubbishy day in Venice today,

00:28:06.960 --> 00:28:10.280
and that does diminish its charm
quite considerably.

00:28:10.360 --> 00:28:14.080
You could go and sit in a café
and play Monopoly--

00:28:14.160 --> 00:28:16.120
the world Monopoly champion lives here--

00:28:16.200 --> 00:28:20.760
um, you could go to another performance
of Vivaldi's Four Cheeses,

00:28:20.840 --> 00:28:24.840
or you could go somewhere else,
and that's what we're going to do.

00:28:28.680 --> 00:28:31.320
A nautical mile north
of Venice is a collection

00:28:31.400 --> 00:28:34.040
of smaller islands called Murano,

00:28:34.120 --> 00:28:38.160
which any seasoned tourist will know
is famous for making glass.

00:28:38.240 --> 00:28:40.960
Now, there's a good chance
that you've been to Venice

00:28:41.040 --> 00:28:42.800
and that you've bought some Murano glass,

00:28:42.880 --> 00:28:45.560
a little fish
or a little seahorse or something.

00:28:45.640 --> 00:28:48.720
But I have to warn you that,
according to the experts here,

00:28:48.800 --> 00:28:55.840
up to 80% of all the glass
for sale in Venice isn't from Murano.

00:28:55.920 --> 00:29:01.240
It's probably not from Italy
or, to be honest, even Europe.

00:29:01.320 --> 00:29:04.240
Anyway, we're going to go
and look at the real thing.

00:29:04.320 --> 00:29:09.120
Prepare yourself
for my grandmother's mantelpiece.

00:29:10.160 --> 00:29:12.160
♪ ♪

00:29:14.120 --> 00:29:15.920
Remember the 1970s?

00:29:16.000 --> 00:29:17.760
Then you'll remember
knock-off versions

00:29:17.840 --> 00:29:21.160
of these glass trinkets
littering houses everywhere.

00:29:21.240 --> 00:29:24.760
800 years earlier,
Murano-based glassblowers

00:29:24.840 --> 00:29:28.040
like Paolo were kept
on a very short leash.

00:29:28.120 --> 00:29:31.840
There are two reasons why glassblowing
is concentrated on Murano.

00:29:31.920 --> 00:29:35.960
One is that in the early days,
the authorities in Venice were worried

00:29:36.040 --> 00:29:39.480
that all these furnaces
would set fire to the city,

00:29:39.560 --> 00:29:41.440
so they wanted them moved
to a separate island.

00:29:41.520 --> 00:29:44.400
Another reason,
and this is the more interesting one,

00:29:44.480 --> 00:29:50.000
is that the secrets of Murano glassmaking
were very, very jealously guarded,

00:29:50.080 --> 00:29:53.480
and if you were part
of the glassmaking sect,

00:29:53.560 --> 00:29:56.120
you belonged to a guild,
you had special privileges,

00:29:56.200 --> 00:30:01.360
you could marry into the nobility,
but you couldn't leave this island,

00:30:01.440 --> 00:30:05.000
because they were so desperate
for the secrets of this process

00:30:05.080 --> 00:30:07.840
not to make it out into the,
into the wider world.

00:30:07.920 --> 00:30:10.960
If you did escape as a glassblower,
there were punishments,

00:30:11.040 --> 00:30:14.160
such as your family were imprisoned
until you came back.

00:30:14.240 --> 00:30:18.600
If you still didn't come back,
they would hunt you down and kill you.

00:30:20.200 --> 00:30:22.720
Despite Mafia levels of secrecy here,

00:30:22.800 --> 00:30:27.360
Paolo and his team think it's safe
for me to have a turn, or a gira.

00:30:28.640 --> 00:30:29.680
Turn! Turn! Turn!

00:30:29.760 --> 00:30:31.640
Gira, gira, gira, gira,
rotate, rotate.

00:30:31.720 --> 00:30:33.800
- Rotate, rotate...
- Uh, uh, uh...

00:30:33.880 --> 00:30:36.280
Not too fast.
Oh, yeah, it goes wobbly.

00:30:38.240 --> 00:30:40.640
Ah, okay. Uh...

00:30:40.720 --> 00:30:42.200
- Okay. Okay.
- I'm squeezing quite hard.

00:30:42.280 --> 00:30:43.520
Okay, okay.

00:30:43.600 --> 00:30:45.520
- Whoa, whoa, whoa. Okay.
- Yeah? Oh.

00:30:45.600 --> 00:30:46.840
Now blow in it.

00:30:46.920 --> 00:30:48.240
What? Blow?

00:30:48.600 --> 00:30:50.720
Go, go, go, go.

00:30:50.800 --> 00:30:52.680
To manipulate the molten glass,

00:30:52.760 --> 00:30:55.720
the temperature needs
to around 2,000 degrees,

00:30:55.800 --> 00:30:58.440
the same as the inside
of a pizza oven times four.

00:31:00.440 --> 00:31:02.480
Bravo. Bravo.

00:31:02.560 --> 00:31:04.560
- Okay, okay.
- Okay?

00:31:04.640 --> 00:31:06.160
- Good.
- Oh, I'm making a balloon.

00:31:06.240 --> 00:31:08.680
Now here, with this one.

00:31:08.840 --> 00:31:10.520
Yes?

00:31:10.600 --> 00:31:12.680
- Here?
- Good, good, keep going.

00:31:12.760 --> 00:31:14.760
Straight, straight.
Dritto, dritto, dritto.

00:31:14.840 --> 00:31:17.400
Bravissimo. Okay, very good.

00:31:17.480 --> 00:31:19.160
- T-That's it.
- Grazie, grazie.

00:31:20.520 --> 00:31:22.040
- Okay.
- That's quite nice.

00:31:23.560 --> 00:31:27.520
But now it's Paolo's gira to show me up.

00:31:27.600 --> 00:31:29.120
Let's just watch it with some nice music.

00:31:30.680 --> 00:31:32.680
♪ ♪

00:31:51.040 --> 00:31:53.200
That was epic.

00:31:53.280 --> 00:31:54.960
Now, that's proper skill.

00:31:55.040 --> 00:31:57.920
You've got a few seconds
to do that, no more.

00:31:58.000 --> 00:32:00.200
♪ ♪

00:32:10.640 --> 00:32:12.720
Bravissimo.

00:32:18.720 --> 00:32:21.920
While I wait
for my lovely bulb to cool,

00:32:22.000 --> 00:32:25.360
Paolo suggests
I check out some things

00:32:25.440 --> 00:32:28.880
he gira-ed out earlier
in the gift shop next door.

00:32:28.960 --> 00:32:32.400
Now, my piece of art
in glass will probably go

00:32:32.480 --> 00:32:37.680
on display in this shop with a price
of something like... 960 euros.

00:32:37.760 --> 00:32:41.640
Look at the variety
of stuff that they make.

00:32:41.720 --> 00:32:46.040
I do like this chicken,
and I might have her.

00:32:48.960 --> 00:32:50.360
Holy .

00:32:53.880 --> 00:32:55.480
Is that in lira?

00:32:57.840 --> 00:32:59.800
♪ ♪

00:33:04.520 --> 00:33:08.160
Well, viewers, we've still got
a few euros left on the helicopter,

00:33:08.240 --> 00:33:12.160
just enough to squeeze in
one final Italian destination.

00:33:19.400 --> 00:33:21.680
100 miles north of Venice

00:33:21.760 --> 00:33:25.240
lies one of the most epic
mountain ranges in Europe.

00:33:30.440 --> 00:33:35.040
It is also one of the most jaw-droppingly
beautiful places on Earth.

00:33:36.760 --> 00:33:39.760
Welcome to the Dolomites, viewers,
almost at the top edge of Italy,

00:33:39.840 --> 00:33:42.200
our journey almost done.

00:33:42.280 --> 00:33:44.560
Looks rubbish, doesn't it?

00:33:46.760 --> 00:33:51.120
And while we're on the move,
cast your mind back five and a half hours

00:33:51.200 --> 00:33:53.080
and you may remember me
mentioning my search

00:33:53.160 --> 00:33:55.280
for the ten commandments of Italy.

00:33:55.360 --> 00:33:57.760
Allow me to update you
on my findings.

00:34:00.280 --> 00:34:02.680
The first rule of being Italian
is never, ever

00:34:02.800 --> 00:34:04.800
drink cappuccino after 11:00 a.m.

00:34:06.120 --> 00:34:08.120
The second rule, thanks to Paolo...

00:34:08.240 --> 00:34:12.560
Is always make sure that your shoes
coordinate or match your belt.

00:34:12.640 --> 00:34:17.120
Numero tre: if you live near a volcano,
don't worry about it.

00:34:17.160 --> 00:34:19.040
Do you ever wake up at night
thinking, "Shit,

00:34:19.120 --> 00:34:21.440
there's a massive volcano
just down the road"?

00:34:21.520 --> 00:34:22.520
Not really, no.

00:34:22.600 --> 00:34:25.240
The fourth commandment
is that the weather

00:34:25.320 --> 00:34:27.880
- doesn't matter.
- Wow.

00:34:27.960 --> 00:34:29.640
In at cinque, yes, the Italians

00:34:29.760 --> 00:34:32.520
- might be better at sport...
- No!

00:34:32.600 --> 00:34:33.680
- ...fashion...
- No.

00:34:33.800 --> 00:34:36.600
- ...and making stuff...
- It's amazing.

00:34:36.640 --> 00:34:39.120
...but they will never
be good at making tea.

00:34:39.240 --> 00:34:42.640
I don't wish to be rude,
but I mean, Jesus Christ.

00:34:42.760 --> 00:34:45.440
Rule VI:

00:34:45.520 --> 00:34:47.640
Italy can be a very frustrating place...

00:34:50.640 --> 00:34:52.640
...but only if you live here.

00:34:52.680 --> 00:34:54.520
Only the Italians
don't want to be Italian.

00:34:54.600 --> 00:34:55.680
- Is that right?

00:34:55.800 --> 00:34:57.920
And number seven, la dolce vita

00:34:58.000 --> 00:34:59.960
isn't really about the high life.

00:35:00.040 --> 00:35:02.280
All over my trousers,
all over the poop deck.

00:35:02.360 --> 00:35:05.640
It's about good company
and enjoying the moment.

00:35:05.680 --> 00:35:07.280
- Fantastico.
- You may also be wondering

00:35:07.360 --> 00:35:09.520
why there are only seven rules

00:35:09.600 --> 00:35:11.840
in the ten commandments of being Italian.

00:35:11.920 --> 00:35:15.760
Well, this is Italy, and as we all know,
rules are wrong.

00:35:15.840 --> 00:35:18.000
Viva l'italia!

00:35:18.080 --> 00:35:20.240
Now, where were we?

00:35:21.320 --> 00:35:23.120
Ah, yes.

00:35:25.360 --> 00:35:28.920
We're now about 8,500 feet
above sea level.

00:35:29.000 --> 00:35:31.360
Sea level being
where Venice is, obviously,

00:35:31.440 --> 00:35:34.560
although only about, uh, 80 feet

00:35:34.640 --> 00:35:37.360
from that mountain there,
rather alarmingly.

00:35:39.040 --> 00:35:41.400
While I have the utmost confidence

00:35:41.480 --> 00:35:43.680
in our pilot today, I am reassured

00:35:43.800 --> 00:35:46.760
that if we were to plummet
into the vast snowy wilderness below,

00:35:46.840 --> 00:35:49.440
we'd end up in safe hands.

00:35:49.520 --> 00:35:51.280
- Well, paws.

00:35:55.400 --> 00:35:57.520
Mountain rescue dogs
have been used to find

00:35:57.600 --> 00:36:00.920
lost travelers in these parts
since the 13th century,

00:36:01.000 --> 00:36:06.320
using the ancient training method
of bribing the dog with food.

00:36:06.400 --> 00:36:07.680
So, these are rescue-dog handlers.

00:36:07.800 --> 00:36:11.960
They are Sonya, Julia and Andrea,
and this is a dog.

00:36:12.040 --> 00:36:14.360
Uh, dogs instinctively know to look...

00:36:14.440 --> 00:36:17.320
Well, these t... sorts of dogs
know to look for people?

00:36:17.400 --> 00:36:20.480
No, they-they learn
that the reward is connected

00:36:20.560 --> 00:36:25.040
with the people, so does...
if they smell the people,

00:36:25.120 --> 00:36:29.640
the humans, they know there is
the reward that's food or play.

00:36:29.760 --> 00:36:31.800
- That's quite clever, isn't it?
- Yeah.

00:36:31.880 --> 00:36:34.680
Animals are very clever.
So-so can we do some training?

00:36:34.800 --> 00:36:36.840
- Yes, sure.
- Dog training, I mean, not me.

00:36:39.360 --> 00:36:41.320
To test the dog's efficiency,

00:36:41.400 --> 00:36:44.480
I'm taking my yoga mat
and enthusiastic cameraman...

00:36:44.560 --> 00:36:46.360
Right, are you coming with me?

00:36:46.440 --> 00:36:48.640
- Yeah.
- Oh, God.

00:36:48.760 --> 00:36:50.560
...to trudge through
minus-eight conditions

00:36:50.640 --> 00:36:53.680
in knee-deep snow
and perfect camouflage.

00:36:56.800 --> 00:36:58.360
I'll follow these tracks.

00:37:00.120 --> 00:37:05.120
Are these human tracks
or have they been left by yeti?

00:37:05.160 --> 00:37:07.120
I've got my mat.

00:37:07.160 --> 00:37:09.080
Ooh, this will be lovely.

00:37:09.120 --> 00:37:11.920
Okay. Happy with this.

00:37:12.000 --> 00:37:13.440
Help. Help.

00:37:13.520 --> 00:37:16.280
Rescue dogs can smell a human

00:37:16.360 --> 00:37:17.840
from a quarter of a mile away.

00:37:17.920 --> 00:37:22.280
Or ten miles if you're wearing Fiasco.

00:37:22.360 --> 00:37:26.760
When the dog gets here,
I have to let her bark ten to 15 times

00:37:26.840 --> 00:37:30.520
before I give her the treat,
'cause barking is part of the technique.

00:37:30.600 --> 00:37:33.000
That's how the handlers know
where the dog is.

00:37:35.040 --> 00:37:38.560
These dogs can also find
a person buried 15 feet deep in snow,

00:37:38.640 --> 00:37:42.520
making them the most cost-effective
emergency service in the world.

00:37:42.600 --> 00:37:44.520
They're also the cutest.

00:37:44.600 --> 00:37:46.800
Ooh, dog is approaching.

00:37:46.880 --> 00:37:48.840
Help. Help.

00:37:48.920 --> 00:37:50.920
Oh. Hello.

00:37:53.000 --> 00:37:54.440
- You got to do some barking,
- Kebab! Kebab!

00:37:54.520 --> 00:37:55.840
Big barking, come on, more barking.

00:37:55.920 --> 00:37:57.760
That's only three. Two.

00:37:57.840 --> 00:37:59.360
Bark, bark, bark.

00:37:59.440 --> 00:38:01.600
Miley, bark. Ruff, ruff.

00:38:01.640 --> 00:38:03.480
Kebab! Kebab!

00:38:03.600 --> 00:38:06.240
- Five. More.
- Kebab!

00:38:06.320 --> 00:38:08.240
Kebab! Kebab! Kebab!

00:38:08.320 --> 00:38:09.240
- Eight.
- Kebab!

00:38:09.320 --> 00:38:11.280
- That's it. Well done.
- Kebab! Kebab!

00:38:11.360 --> 00:38:13.040
Now you can have your dog treat.

00:38:13.120 --> 00:38:14.640
Yes. Thank you.

00:38:14.760 --> 00:38:16.640
Thank you for rescuing me.

00:38:16.760 --> 00:38:21.560
This is a rescue dog from-from Sicily,
and now, she saves people in return.

00:38:21.640 --> 00:38:23.560
- Exactly.
- I'd say it's excellent karma.

00:38:23.640 --> 00:38:26.120
- What goes around comes around.

00:38:26.160 --> 00:38:28.520
If you're nice to animals,
they'll be nice to us.

00:38:28.600 --> 00:38:30.440
Exactly.

00:38:30.520 --> 00:38:32.600
So, I've been rescued,
you now have to watch

00:38:32.640 --> 00:38:33.840
the remainder of the series,

00:38:33.920 --> 00:38:35.560
which is only a few minutes,
so don't worry,

00:38:35.640 --> 00:38:40.640
but you can thank Miley
for finding me in the snow.

00:38:40.680 --> 00:38:42.320
And you can also thank
the production team

00:38:42.400 --> 00:38:45.120
when the next scene gives you nightmares.

00:38:48.920 --> 00:38:51.240
A short helicopter ride
further along the Dolomites,

00:38:51.320 --> 00:38:54.920
in the province of South Tyrol,
is a rather picturesque town

00:38:55.000 --> 00:38:57.840
known to the Italians as Castelrotto,

00:38:57.920 --> 00:39:01.160
and it's home to
a rather terrifying tradition.

00:39:01.280 --> 00:39:04.640
This area is sometimes Italian
and sometimes Austrian.

00:39:04.680 --> 00:39:06.080
It depends on which war we've just had.

00:39:06.120 --> 00:39:07.840
But we haven't had one for a bit,
so the people here

00:39:07.920 --> 00:39:10.240
tend to regard themselves
more as Tyrolian.

00:39:10.320 --> 00:39:11.640
And as Tyrolian people,

00:39:11.680 --> 00:39:13.320
of course, they have
some myths and legends,

00:39:13.400 --> 00:39:15.760
amongst them the legend of Krampus,

00:39:15.840 --> 00:39:19.840
who can be thought of
as the dark side of Christmas.

00:39:19.920 --> 00:39:22.320
You have Saint Nick, Father Christmas
on the one hand.

00:39:22.400 --> 00:39:24.960
He dishes out gifts to children
who have been good.

00:39:25.040 --> 00:39:26.600
And then you have Krampus
on the other hand,

00:39:26.640 --> 00:39:29.040
who beats children who have been bad.

00:39:29.120 --> 00:39:31.600
They have a festival
to celebrate this, weirdly,

00:39:31.640 --> 00:39:34.160
that involves fireworks
and wearing a mask,

00:39:34.280 --> 00:39:38.960
so if we're gonna take part,
first we have a make a mask.

00:39:39.040 --> 00:39:40.240
Right.

00:39:46.960 --> 00:39:49.240
Now, something
we didn't show you in Venice,

00:39:49.320 --> 00:39:52.160
were the elegant,
traditional Venetian masks.

00:39:53.840 --> 00:39:57.000
- Well, these are nothing like that.

00:39:57.080 --> 00:40:00.360
This is the Krampus
chain saw mask-maker.

00:40:02.120 --> 00:40:06.920
I must say, this is the only time
I've ever seen a chain saw used indoors.

00:40:07.000 --> 00:40:09.120
- Yes, that's looking quite...
- Like it.

00:40:09.160 --> 00:40:10.640
Yes, it's looking quite scary, actually.

00:40:10.680 --> 00:40:13.960
Krampus masks are a very niche market,

00:40:14.040 --> 00:40:17.360
and wood-carvers like Marcus
spend years mastering their craft...

00:40:19.440 --> 00:40:22.560
We are through to the,
to the back of the eyeballs.

00:40:22.640 --> 00:40:24.360
...so our lawyers
have asked me to remind you

00:40:24.440 --> 00:40:25.400
not to try this at home.

00:40:25.920 --> 00:40:29.200
So, now you have a good look.

00:40:31.120 --> 00:40:33.480
Are you ready?

00:40:33.520 --> 00:40:35.480
Oooh...

00:40:35.520 --> 00:40:37.200
- Scared?
- Yes.

00:40:37.280 --> 00:40:38.560
Good.

00:40:40.520 --> 00:40:42.840
That's not actually finished yet.
It's got to be painted,

00:40:42.920 --> 00:40:45.520
it's got to have some blood
and gore added to it,

00:40:45.640 --> 00:40:48.040
and some horns, just to make sure
it traumatizes children,

00:40:48.160 --> 00:40:52.120
and then, I imagine, I'll be required
to wear a costume of some sort,

00:40:52.200 --> 00:40:55.640
because production
have organized this bit.

00:40:55.720 --> 00:40:57.800
And I love dressing up.

00:41:02.200 --> 00:41:04.920
Still, how bad can it be?

00:41:05.000 --> 00:41:07.120
It looks like something
from a Christmas card.

00:41:07.200 --> 00:41:10.040
Snow-covered streets,
twinkling fairy lights,

00:41:10.160 --> 00:41:13.960
locals making merry over mulled wine...

00:41:15.520 --> 00:41:18.960
...or perhaps we're in a promo

00:41:19.000 --> 00:41:22.440
for a Scandinavian death metal band.

00:41:22.520 --> 00:41:26.880
Every year, on this night, while
Saint Nick delivers gifts to good kids...

00:41:26.960 --> 00:41:28.360
Why did we agree to this?

00:41:28.440 --> 00:41:29.960
...hundreds of locals
dress up to celebrate

00:41:30.000 --> 00:41:32.520
his macabre counterpart.

00:41:32.640 --> 00:41:34.760
Well, it's a tradition...

00:41:34.840 --> 00:41:36.200
Eh, he just said it, it's a tradition.

00:41:36.280 --> 00:41:39.200
I'm gonna put this on now,
and then I won't be able to see.

00:41:39.280 --> 00:41:44.040
Krampus is a half-goat, half-demon
dating back to pagan folklore,

00:41:44.160 --> 00:41:48.560
who could only be killed by being stabbed
with an evergreen branch dipped in blood

00:41:48.680 --> 00:41:50.320
from God's own dark side.

00:41:50.400 --> 00:41:52.040
Great.

00:41:52.160 --> 00:41:54.000
- Why the long face?
- I can't hear you.

00:41:55.400 --> 00:41:57.000
Ask the boss what you have to do.

00:41:57.040 --> 00:41:58.360
Where is the boss?

00:41:58.440 --> 00:42:00.000
Turn to your right.

00:42:00.120 --> 00:42:02.320
- Where is he?
- Right here, here, here.

00:42:02.400 --> 00:42:03.760
Hello, boss of the Krampus.

00:42:05.440 --> 00:42:09.000
We'll make a show for the tourists
and all the guys.

00:42:09.040 --> 00:42:10.320
You'll have to shout.

00:42:10.400 --> 00:42:11.320
What?

00:42:11.400 --> 00:42:12.360
You'll have to shout.

00:42:13.400 --> 00:42:15.120
He said they're gonna make a big show

00:42:15.200 --> 00:42:17.800
and shout and lots of fire.

00:42:22.360 --> 00:42:26.560
Apparently, the final items left
on our Italian to-do list are:

00:42:26.680 --> 00:42:29.120
traumatizing tourists,

00:42:29.200 --> 00:42:31.000
yeti flagellation

00:42:31.040 --> 00:42:34.680
and mowing Beelzebub's back garden.

00:42:34.760 --> 00:42:37.840
Well, don't worry about me
being run over by stuff.

00:42:37.920 --> 00:42:39.360
I can't see.

00:42:39.440 --> 00:42:42.000
Am I on fire?

00:42:42.040 --> 00:42:44.320
Am I going the right way?

00:42:44.400 --> 00:42:47.520
Hello, children. Hello.

00:42:49.520 --> 00:42:51.000
Who is he?

00:42:51.120 --> 00:42:53.000
Who was that?

00:42:53.040 --> 00:42:54.640
Silly .

00:42:54.720 --> 00:42:56.400
I can say what I want inside this mask.

00:42:56.480 --> 00:42:58.000
It's fantastic.

00:43:01.200 --> 00:43:03.280
Who the are you?

00:43:03.360 --> 00:43:06.160
It was at this point Amazon
asked us to make this

00:43:06.240 --> 00:43:08.240
a bit more family-friendly.

00:43:13.800 --> 00:43:16.280
No presents for you, little boy.

00:43:18.880 --> 00:43:21.760
No presents for you,
you little .

00:43:21.840 --> 00:43:24.240
Well, that didn't last long.

00:43:24.320 --> 00:43:27.120
Where's the camera?

00:43:27.200 --> 00:43:29.440
Is there a camera anywhere nearby?

00:43:29.520 --> 00:43:31.160
- How are you doing?
- Badly.

00:43:31.240 --> 00:43:34.360
Is there anybody from the village up here?

00:43:34.440 --> 00:43:35.400
I mean, I...

00:43:35.480 --> 00:43:37.360
- Is there an audience up here?
- No.

00:43:37.440 --> 00:43:40.840
- So they're just doing it
for their own gratification?
- Yeah.

00:43:40.920 --> 00:43:42.840
So it's a dangerous cult.

00:43:42.920 --> 00:43:44.920
Now they're gonna burn us.

00:43:45.000 --> 00:43:46.720
One bloke went off into the woods.

00:43:46.800 --> 00:43:48.960
I don't think he's ever
gonna be seen again.

00:43:49.040 --> 00:43:50.920
What's happening?

00:43:51.000 --> 00:43:53.800
Something about human sacrifice, I think.

00:43:56.080 --> 00:43:59.680
Luckily, the only sacrifice
was my last remaining shred

00:43:59.760 --> 00:44:04.000
of credibility after hours wafting around
dressed as the Honey Monster from hell.

00:44:04.080 --> 00:44:06.360
I think if I just sit here quietly
and ignore them,

00:44:06.440 --> 00:44:10.280
no one will ever know
that I was anything to do with it.

00:44:10.360 --> 00:44:14.160
Well, if anybody wants any sugar puffs,
I'll be in my hotel room later.

00:44:21.680 --> 00:44:24.280
♪ ♪

00:44:28.760 --> 00:44:33.400
So, after a 12-week odyssey
which began way down in Sicily,

00:44:33.480 --> 00:44:35.840
I've meandered up through Italy,

00:44:35.920 --> 00:44:40.200
stopping off at Rome, Tuscany
and Turin, to name a few,

00:44:40.280 --> 00:44:44.320
and now I'm almost
at the northernmost tip of the Dolomites,

00:44:44.400 --> 00:44:47.200
where I have a date with the final scene.

00:44:47.280 --> 00:44:52.320
Well, viewers, we're very near the end
of this really very, very epic journey

00:44:52.400 --> 00:44:54.480
around what is actually
quite a small country.

00:44:54.560 --> 00:44:57.800
We've done thousands
and thousands of kilometers,

00:44:57.880 --> 00:45:00.440
I've slightly lost track,
but it's been amazing,

00:45:00.520 --> 00:45:03.520
I mean, look at all the things we've done.

00:45:04.480 --> 00:45:06.120
It's just tremendous.

00:45:06.200 --> 00:45:08.800
125cc Vespa,

00:45:08.880 --> 00:45:11.440
one of the machines
that made Italy what it is.

00:45:11.520 --> 00:45:13.080
- Ooh, la, la.

00:45:13.160 --> 00:45:14.640
- Perfect.

00:45:14.720 --> 00:45:15.920
- Grazie.
- Prego.

00:45:16.000 --> 00:45:17.400
I thought these bits were good.

00:45:17.480 --> 00:45:19.520
Okay, here I go.

00:45:19.600 --> 00:45:20.800
- Ooh.
- It's a goal.

00:45:20.880 --> 00:45:23.480
- Yes!

00:45:23.560 --> 00:45:27.520
I've been desperate to cut the cheese
ever since I arrived here, so...

00:45:27.600 --> 00:45:28.800
I can't.

00:45:28.880 --> 00:45:30.480
I wasn't sure about these bits, though.

00:45:30.560 --> 00:45:32.640
It won't go straight, Tom.

00:45:32.720 --> 00:45:34.000
There's something wrong with it.

00:45:34.080 --> 00:45:36.760
I find that very disturbing.

00:45:36.840 --> 00:45:39.040
There's my hands, there's Enzo's hands.

00:45:39.960 --> 00:45:44.680
These are the best-preserved
Roman ruins on the entire planet.

00:45:44.760 --> 00:45:47.440
I'm not sure these bits
actually made it in.

00:45:47.520 --> 00:45:48.920
Doesn't have a bell on the end.

00:45:49.000 --> 00:45:51.560
Where is the bathroom?

00:45:51.640 --> 00:45:54.360
Could you be quiet? Silencia, por favore.

00:45:54.440 --> 00:45:56.480
And look at all the amazing
people we've encountered.

00:45:56.560 --> 00:45:57.760
There was her...

00:45:57.840 --> 00:45:59.840
What the * do you want?

00:45:59.920 --> 00:46:00.960
That's not even English.

00:46:01.040 --> 00:46:02.040
- Him.

00:46:02.520 --> 00:46:04.280
And him. He was good.

00:46:04.360 --> 00:46:06.040
The captain of the Italian football squad

00:46:06.120 --> 00:46:09.000
has correctly identified the milk jug.

00:46:09.080 --> 00:46:11.280
- Delightful.
- You coming?

00:46:11.360 --> 00:46:14.320
Could have done
without this lot in tow, though.

00:46:14.400 --> 00:46:17.840
- And those people in silly costumes.

00:46:17.920 --> 00:46:20.600
I think they're all getting off
on the ritualistic whipping a bit.

00:46:20.920 --> 00:46:22.280
Seriously?

00:46:25.520 --> 00:46:27.960
So, after several thousand miles,

00:46:28.040 --> 00:46:30.880
we've run out of Italy,
which means it's time

00:46:30.960 --> 00:46:33.560
to ditch la mia Panda,
and take the last few steps

00:46:33.640 --> 00:46:35.840
through the snow on foot,

00:46:35.920 --> 00:46:38.640
in the hope I may say something profound.

00:46:38.720 --> 00:46:40.680
♪ ♪

00:47:08.120 --> 00:47:13.440
Well, viewers, we're at the end,
and I have to tell you what I think.

00:47:13.520 --> 00:47:16.520
Well, actually, I'd like to go right back
to the very beginning,

00:47:16.600 --> 00:47:20.000
where I was talking about
all the clichés and stereotypes

00:47:20.080 --> 00:47:23.880
that we, you know, attach
to Italy and the Italian people.

00:47:23.960 --> 00:47:25.520
Some of them are true.

00:47:25.600 --> 00:47:29.320
It is chaotic, it is disorganized.

00:47:29.400 --> 00:47:31.240
They do wave their arms around
when they speak.

00:47:31.320 --> 00:47:34.240
It is theatrical.
The bureaucracy is overwhelming.

00:47:34.320 --> 00:47:36.400
The Italians will be
the first to admit this.

00:47:36.480 --> 00:47:37.840
And it annoys them.

00:47:37.920 --> 00:47:41.080
But that does make it
a very charming place to visit.

00:47:41.160 --> 00:47:44.520
It makes everything a bit of an adventure.

00:47:44.600 --> 00:47:47.320
But, actually, I think
the real power of Italy

00:47:47.400 --> 00:47:50.440
is exerted far and wide
in the greater world.

00:47:50.520 --> 00:47:53.160
Because if you think
of all the things that signify

00:47:53.240 --> 00:47:58.400
a contented, w-well-lived life,
well-campaigned,

00:47:58.480 --> 00:48:02.920
it's, you know, view, villa, lakeside,

00:48:03.000 --> 00:48:05.360
bottle of white wine, lunch,

00:48:05.440 --> 00:48:09.080
suit, motor launch, shotgun,

00:48:09.160 --> 00:48:11.560
handbag, sports car,

00:48:11.640 --> 00:48:15.200
domestic appliance, carbon-fiber bicycle,

00:48:15.280 --> 00:48:16.840
marble kitchen worktops.

00:48:16.920 --> 00:48:19.400
All these things are more desirable

00:48:19.480 --> 00:48:23.800
when they have the word
"Italian" in front of them.

00:48:23.880 --> 00:48:25.440
And that's the point I'm trying to make.

00:48:25.520 --> 00:48:28.280
We patronize this country,
we pat it on the head

00:48:28.360 --> 00:48:30.520
for its endearing befuddlement,

00:48:30.600 --> 00:48:34.400
but in truth,
we're all completely on our knees

00:48:34.480 --> 00:48:37.160
in front of Italy and the Italians.

00:48:37.240 --> 00:48:40.320
A small part of every single one of us

00:48:40.400 --> 00:48:43.920
does want to be Italian.

00:48:45.080 --> 00:48:46.960
And I'm ready.

00:48:47.040 --> 00:48:52.240
It just remains for me
to say ciao and arrivederci

00:48:52.320 --> 00:48:55.600
and see you in the next place.

00:48:55.680 --> 00:48:57.680
Thank you for coming along.

00:48:57.760 --> 00:48:59.760
♪ ♪

00:49:09.800 --> 00:49:11.800
♪ ♪

00:49:37.160 --> 00:49:39.160
♪ ♪