WEBVTT

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You know...

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Sometimes, we're not
prepared for adversity.

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When it happens,
sometimes we're caught short.

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We don't know exactly how
to handle it when it comes up.

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Sometimes, we don't know...

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just what to do when
adversity takes over...

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and I have advice
for all of us.

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It's called,

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"Mercy,

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Mercy."

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This is the end.

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This is the end of the restaurant
universe as we know it.

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This is really surreal.

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Like, I couldn't imagine something
like this ever happening.

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I don't know think there's
a chef out there right now

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who's not just scared shitless

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of, like, what's gonna happen
in the next few weeks.

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‐ There is an entire chain reaction,

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an entire system

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hanging in the balance right now.

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‐ My mantra's always been "* fear,"

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but I've never been more
scared in my entire life.

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We are just hours
away from a new set of restrictions

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that will make it harder for
restaurants to do business.

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The pandemic has resulted in a loss

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of more than 2/3 of the workforce
in the food service sector.

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An estimated one in three restaurants

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will likely close by the end of the year.

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‐ My group even with all of
their amazing, hard, diligent work,

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it's not gonna be enough maybe

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to save every job and to

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prepare us for what might the future be.

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This is the restaurant.

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When we decided to close down,

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our biggest concern were our staff,

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many of whom don't have
the social benefits.

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Undocumented workers.

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There are dishwashers, there are busboys,
there are porters, there are cleanup crew.

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You know, they're gonna be
left out in the cold.

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This economy is not sustainable,

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and it will implode.

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So, if we don't use this as a moment

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to build our own institutions,

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to take care of our own people,
we're gonna miss out.

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There are a lot of things
that need to change.

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How people are paid in this industry,

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the working conditions,

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the expectations.

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The way things have been,

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the status quo, is not good enough.

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It's never been good enough.

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It's time to change.

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So, where does an industry that employs

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more than fifteen and a half
million people go from here?

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The pandemic issues are another symptom

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of something that was gonna happen anyway,

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and I believe over a 10 to 15 year period,

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all of these restaurants that are going
to change and close and evolve,

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nobody would've noticed

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'cause it would've happened
in a very natural evolution.

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But now, it happened overnight.

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How do we recalibrate this?

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The reality is

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we're in a situation where you have
to fix a * moving car.

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There's no time to * stop.

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Hello, hello. I feel loud.

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This is * weird.

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I like it better on Zoom.

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It's much better.

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‐ I mean, we've done a year
of podcasting without

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ever being in the same room.

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It was eye‐opening to talk to so many
of your friends in that moment.

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‐ February, March of last year,
it's like nobody knew

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what was gonna happen.
‐ Yeah.

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People didn't even know
could you eat food

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from the grocery store without washing it.

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Make sure
your groceries and takeout food

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are clean before you eat them.

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Microwave your mail
to kill the COVID‐19 virus.

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Now, there has been a spike in
microwave fires across the country lately

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because people are placing
their masks in the microwave.

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It was such a dark, dark place

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that it's funny that people have
already forgotten how dark it was.

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‐ What you've been saying is
the pandemic isn't the thing

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that killed the system.

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These things have been mounting
for a long, long time.

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It could take a long time to go into

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all the different holes that were dug

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over the past 20 years
in the restaurant industry,

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but, for me, it's more important
to take the macro position

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and to use this moment.

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If anything, this has caused...

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divergent paths to sort of recalibrate.

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And just the mere fact of me saying
"divergent paths recalibrating..."
it's like...

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But‐‐ but it's‐‐ the reality is like

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this is the first time
I'm totally flummoxed

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at what's around the corner.

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There's a lot of unknowns.

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When we talked about this
a year‐plus ago, it was just darkness.

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I was so depressed. I think you were
a lot more rosier about it than I was.

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‐ Of course, I have
huge concerns about the future

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of our business and my own businesses,

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but I'm also interested
in the industry again in a way

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that I haven't really been in a few years.

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We all knew,
especially in the last few years,

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just how fragile this business was.

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The years from 2010 to 2020,

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we just had an excess of
everything in our industry.

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Media, restaurants, chefs, everything.

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Hyped up to the Nth degree.

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You know, sometimes,
the bubble has to burst

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in order to be more
healthy in the long run.

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The restaurant industry was a bubble.

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There was this insatiable
appetite for newness.

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And I think a big catalyst
was the media hyping it up.

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The glamor made it something like...

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we need more of it.

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Chefs were presented opportunities that
they had never been presented before.

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More and more restaurants opened up,
I certainly was part of that

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because it felt like you couldn't stop.

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This is grow or die.

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I don't think anybody anticipated
what was going to burst that bubble

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was a global pandemic,

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but something had to give.

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---

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‐ Well,

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I mean, there's so many factors.

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Rent, the amount of employees you need,

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food costs, wine costs,
the permits you have to pull.

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You try to keep your food margins at 20%.

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It ends up to be more like 35%.

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Your labor percentage is another 35%,

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and then you have rent
and you have utilities and all that stuff.

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So, at the end of the day,
I'm probably paying

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50 cents per diner for them
to eat those chicken wings.

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When the pandemic hit,

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within two weeks,
we had so many people going,

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"I have to close my doors for good."

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Like, after two weeks.

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It's like,
how are we not prepared

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for a two week close down?

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Restaurants are one
of the most decentralized

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sectors in business.

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Like, there's not the pope of
restaurants who says,

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"Well, here's how we're
gonna deal with egg prices

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"or the rise of the internet
or the potential for a pandemic

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to ravage our entire sector."

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We talk about the restaurant
industry like it's a cohesive thing,

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and it's really not.

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And that's part of why

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it's so easy for it to get *ed.

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If anything, the past year proved that

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Darwinian theory is a real thing.

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And it was not just
survival of the fittest.

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It was survival of the most privileged.

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Survival of who had the most access.

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Survival of all of these things

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that not everyone can have,
and it wasn't necessarily fair.

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I mean, there's countless restaurants that
closed that should not have closed.

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‐ I mean, we're...

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We shut some down, and...

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Ah man.

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There was certainly a period
where I was like, "Oh this is‐‐
this is all over."

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To be faced with that,
it's like your professional mortality.

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I just felt so...

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stupid for a long time.

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You pour yourself into this restaurant.

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You make it a sustainable business
where you're giving healthcare,

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you're making people happy,
all these things.

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And the stress,
it's just so much stress.

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You are taught...

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that perfection and pursuit of excellence
is brainwash,

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and I bought that
hook, line, and sinker.

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And then, all of a sudden,
it's taken away.

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And I think that...

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vulnerability, that powerlessness,

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I think shook a lot of us to our core.

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I'm talking to people that

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are asking themselves
existential life questions.

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This job is really hard.
It's physical work,

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there's a lot of hours.

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There's a lot of people in
the restaurant industry

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that are asking themselves

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is there something else
they could be doing,

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and I'm asking this question, too.
It's like, "Is this what
I wanna be doing?"

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It's a reassessment of what's happening.

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I come here at least once a week.

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Oh man.

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‐ This would be five or six rows,

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like lines, queues,
and people just lined up, ordering.

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‐ What is the order. What should I order?

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So, our famous sandwich
is the beef French dip.

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And it's a double dip.

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The best way to have it.

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This has been around for generations.
Mm‐hmm.

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This is as old school
as you can get.

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This place is amazing.

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People seem to feel like,

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at least in our industry,
that things are gonna go back to normal.

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It's like, "oh, let's bring it back
to March of 2020."

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None of it was working
that well to begin with.

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‐ No.
This is just being honest, right?

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‐ We have undervalued food for so long.

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We have undervalued people
that wash our dishes for so long.

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The culture of our coworkers.

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I feel like that is gonna really shift.

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Mm‐hmm.
‐ I mean right now, I know all of us

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are probably struggling
to rehire people.
Mm‐hmm.

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‐ For me, I've kind of been
focused on a lot of different things

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other than the restaurant itself.

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‐ I think alternative revenue avenues

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are super important
for any business owner.

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We're expanding into our products

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and online retail, direct to consumer.

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We're doing a lot more other things...

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‐ And before, we didn't prioritize it
'cause there was no time.

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I wanna hold this industry accountable

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because we should've been doing
this over the past 10, 20 years.

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We're talking about
an industry that still hasn't

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adopted the metric system for *'s sake.

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Know what I mean?

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There's these legacies of...

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being so stubborn to change.

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I think the greatest
obstacle in front of us

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is that nobody wants to change.

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It's a very similar‐‐

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It's gonna sound totally
* crazy,

00:11:51.660 --> 00:11:54.960
but Malcolm Gladwell has this
great piece about Rick Barry.

00:11:57.540 --> 00:11:59.380
He was the greatest free throw
shooter of all time

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because he shot underhand.

00:12:01.130 --> 00:12:02.970
Here he is at the line again.

00:12:02.970 --> 00:12:04.760
And he's still hitting nothing but net.

00:12:04.760 --> 00:12:07.140
‐ Nobody wanted to do that
because it's not cool!

00:12:07.140 --> 00:12:08.310
You lose street cred.

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I think street cred and looking cool

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is why the restaurant industry

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missed the boat altogether.

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The question then is what in priority

00:12:20.530 --> 00:12:22.650
are the things that we sorta
have to address?

00:12:30.330 --> 00:12:31.540
The restaurant business

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employees a shit‐ton of people,

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so, uh...

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That's the scientific term for it.
‐ Yeah.

00:12:38.420 --> 00:12:41.880
Most of the people who were
working with us,

00:12:41.880 --> 00:12:45.970
they don't wanna deal
with the amount of stress,

00:12:45.970 --> 00:12:49.350
or the amount of pressure,
that comes with being in this business.

00:12:49.350 --> 00:12:52.770
‐ In a business like hospitality,

00:12:52.770 --> 00:12:54.770
it's a tough, tough, tough game.

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So, you feel like you've
gotta give more to get more,

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and I really don't know if
that's the case going forward.

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I left the traditional models
because of how traditional they were,

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and that was, you know, kitchen was
the lowest of the totem pole for pay,

00:13:09.240 --> 00:13:11.450
but the highest in my mind,

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and probably any back o' house
person's mind, in workload.

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‐ You work your * off from the bussers

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to the line cooks to the head chef

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to the owners.

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Restaurant culture is not
for the faint of heart.

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As a chef, you're a leader,
you're a therapist, you're a plumber,

00:13:27.800 --> 00:13:30.100
you know, you're the handyman,

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you are HR at times.

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If you can do that
within those four walls,

00:13:34.220 --> 00:13:36.270
imagine what you can do outside of that.

00:13:36.270 --> 00:13:39.060
Worst case scenario for the future of food

00:13:39.060 --> 00:13:41.110
is that there aren't any people

00:13:41.110 --> 00:13:43.110
pushing this industry forward.

00:13:43.110 --> 00:13:44.780
You have the same people
driving the force.

00:13:44.780 --> 00:13:46.650
You have the same people
controlling the narrative.

00:13:46.650 --> 00:13:49.660
And if we remain the same,
then we're in a bad position.

00:13:57.460 --> 00:13:59.290
Welcome to Cooking With Chang!

00:14:00.210 --> 00:14:02.210
Got my friend Kwame Onwuachi here.

00:14:03.170 --> 00:14:05.510
We're about to cultural appropriate
the shit out of this food.

00:14:08.470 --> 00:14:11.600
He's been called
a rock star redefining the industry.

00:14:11.600 --> 00:14:14.560
He's a Top Chef alum
and the founder of Kith and Kin

00:14:14.560 --> 00:14:15.810
right down here in DC at the wharf.

00:14:15.810 --> 00:14:18.350
‐ And he has just written
an incredible memoir.

00:14:18.980 --> 00:14:21.060
Kwame's started a media company.

00:14:21.060 --> 00:14:22.980
He's writing, I don't know,

00:14:22.980 --> 00:14:24.650
two cookbooks simultaneously.

00:14:24.650 --> 00:14:27.860
Any way he can express himself
that's not within a restaurant,

00:14:27.860 --> 00:14:28.950
that's what he's doing.

00:14:30.700 --> 00:14:32.280
We're doing octopus Veracruz.

00:14:32.280 --> 00:14:33.330
I'm just gonna marinate this

00:14:34.080 --> 00:14:35.700
while we work on the other stuff.

00:14:37.790 --> 00:14:42.710
This dish I had for my next menu
for Kith and Kin,

00:14:42.710 --> 00:14:43.790
but then I left the restaurant.

00:14:43.790 --> 00:14:45.840
So it never‐‐ never saw the light of day.

00:14:45.840 --> 00:14:48.670
I really love Veracruzan cuisine.

00:14:48.670 --> 00:14:50.800
It's one of the places

00:14:50.800 --> 00:14:54.390
in Mexico that has
an Afro‐Cuban influence.

00:14:54.800 --> 00:14:58.060
Alright, so this compote's
got a lot going on.

00:14:58.060 --> 00:15:00.890
It's pretty much all your traditional
things in a Veracruz sauce.

00:15:00.890 --> 00:15:03.980
‐ This has all the elements
of something that

00:15:03.980 --> 00:15:07.230
I learned how to cook without
ever having gone to Veracruz.

00:15:07.230 --> 00:15:09.990
I think, for me,
I learned that when a dish tells a story,

00:15:09.990 --> 00:15:11.110
it has a soul.

00:15:11.110 --> 00:15:12.820
You're not just
cooking for perfect seasoning.

00:15:13.240 --> 00:15:15.660
You're cooking to share a story
with someone, share some nostalgia.

00:15:25.840 --> 00:15:27.340
‐ That's awesome!
‐ It's good?

00:15:27.340 --> 00:15:29.760
You are creating stories from you,

00:15:29.760 --> 00:15:33.220
and people, being in a Black chef in
America, where those stories haven't

00:15:33.220 --> 00:15:36.140
even really been told in restaurant
ends, let alone now,

00:15:36.140 --> 00:15:38.270
you're just creating content
still in different mediums.

00:15:38.720 --> 00:15:40.930
‐ I think chefs have to realize
that they have a platform,

00:15:40.930 --> 00:15:42.480
and they can do something
with that platform,

00:15:42.480 --> 00:15:44.020
and it's not really relying

00:15:44.020 --> 00:15:46.690
on anybody else's definition of a chef.

00:15:46.690 --> 00:15:49.110
It's what's your definition of a chef
and what do you wanna do.

00:15:49.110 --> 00:15:51.110
What do you wanna see
this industry become?

00:15:51.110 --> 00:15:53.110
* the status quo.

00:15:53.110 --> 00:15:55.200
‐ You said it. I agree.

00:15:58.740 --> 00:16:01.540
People that work in restaurants
are just scrappy as *.

00:16:01.540 --> 00:16:04.580
Whether you're in front of the house
or back of the house,

00:16:04.580 --> 00:16:06.170
we're resilient. We're gritty,

00:16:06.170 --> 00:16:08.840
and everybody's pivoted to delivery,

00:16:08.840 --> 00:16:12.720
to putting tables outside, whatever needs
to happen to make ends meet.

00:16:14.720 --> 00:16:17.050
I think that things are
gonna continue to pivot.

00:16:20.720 --> 00:16:22.520
I mean, in 2020,

00:16:22.520 --> 00:16:28.110
Reem's was
a traditional fine casual restaurant.

00:16:28.520 --> 00:16:30.690
And when the pandemic hit,

00:16:30.690 --> 00:16:33.110
I had this epiphany that

00:16:33.110 --> 00:16:35.110
I didn't have to be alone,

00:16:35.110 --> 00:16:37.660
and that there's this whole
community around me.

00:16:40.080 --> 00:16:41.910
Our restaurant workers,

00:16:41.910 --> 00:16:44.250
most of those are people of color,

00:16:44.250 --> 00:16:46.250
low income communities,

00:16:46.250 --> 00:16:49.170
immigrants, undocumented folks.

00:16:49.170 --> 00:16:51.550
A lot of my team members, they wanna
do something,

00:16:51.550 --> 00:16:54.300
they wanna be of service
to community,

00:16:54.300 --> 00:16:56.760
and I think
food places are just that.

00:16:59.100 --> 00:17:02.970
So we said, you know what? We are
gonna turn into a commissary kitchen.

00:17:02.970 --> 00:17:05.600
You know, at first, it was about keeping
us afloat, but then,

00:17:05.600 --> 00:17:09.560
it was about sort of fulfilling
this vision that Reem's had.

00:17:09.560 --> 00:17:11.780
Building resilient community
through nourishing food,

00:17:11.780 --> 00:17:13.190
no matter what, you know?

00:17:13.190 --> 00:17:15.740
It doesn't have to be
in this traditional sense.

00:17:16.240 --> 00:17:18.110
This has two more minutes to go.

00:17:18.990 --> 00:17:20.530
Looks good. I'm gonna take it out.

00:17:21.240 --> 00:17:23.290
The biggest model change for us

00:17:23.290 --> 00:17:25.290
was internally, operationally,

00:17:25.290 --> 00:17:27.500
and now, we're in a worker‐owned model.

00:17:29.540 --> 00:17:31.750
Worker ownership really means that

00:17:31.750 --> 00:17:35.220
the people who add value to your business,
the workers,

00:17:35.220 --> 00:17:37.630
have ownership of the profits

00:17:37.630 --> 00:17:39.760
that they are yielding for the company,

00:17:39.760 --> 00:17:43.810
and they have a say in the decisions
that the business makes

00:17:43.810 --> 00:17:46.810
that obviously impacts their lives.

00:17:47.440 --> 00:17:49.940
It's really about creating
a system in which

00:17:49.940 --> 00:17:52.650
people are looking at
the collective wellbeing

00:17:52.650 --> 00:17:55.690
rather than their own
individual wellbeing.

00:17:59.450 --> 00:18:01.450
‐ Food is populist,

00:18:01.450 --> 00:18:03.790
at the end of the day.
‐ Food is populist.

00:18:04.660 --> 00:18:06.160
Are restaurants populist?

00:18:06.960 --> 00:18:10.250
‐ I spent a lifetime thinking that
I was feeding a lot of people.

00:18:11.170 --> 00:18:12.750
‐ And I think this pandemic,

00:18:12.750 --> 00:18:14.840
and the aftermath of it,

00:18:14.840 --> 00:18:17.260
has shown me that
we have really fed nobody.

00:18:17.260 --> 00:18:20.220
We do, but it's not a lot comparatively.

00:18:20.220 --> 00:18:22.800
It's feeding a small
subsect of your community.

00:18:25.810 --> 00:18:28.060
Feeding as many people as possible

00:18:28.060 --> 00:18:29.690
seems like it's easy, but it's not.

00:18:31.650 --> 00:18:33.730
And I think the transition
from high‐end dining

00:18:34.860 --> 00:18:38.070
to fast service is, in some ways,

00:18:38.070 --> 00:18:41.070
the equivalent of pop art
or something like that. It's...

00:18:42.870 --> 00:18:44.700
There's more to that

00:18:44.700 --> 00:18:46.370
to make food accessible

00:18:46.370 --> 00:18:49.160
than just to have it appreciated
by a select few people.

00:18:50.580 --> 00:18:52.630
Strange days.
‐ Very strange days.

00:18:52.630 --> 00:18:55.500
I... You know, I'm a hopeful guy.
I think it's gonna get better.

00:18:55.500 --> 00:18:57.460
‐ I'm a very hopeful person.

00:19:00.510 --> 00:19:02.970
JJ, he was in fine dining.

00:19:02.970 --> 00:19:06.350
He was running the Cecil. He won a Beard
Award for his cookbook. And then,

00:19:06.350 --> 00:19:08.350
he decided to change it up.

00:19:10.140 --> 00:19:12.440
A lot of people, foodies,

00:19:12.440 --> 00:19:14.270
would say, "what a waste of talent

00:19:14.270 --> 00:19:17.820
that this person wants to just
open up something so mainstream."

00:19:18.690 --> 00:19:20.320
I'm like, what's wrong with that?

00:19:20.320 --> 00:19:21.990
Fieldtrip...

00:19:22.610 --> 00:19:25.330
is about your exploration of rice,

00:19:25.330 --> 00:19:27.040
Yeah, yeah, yeah.
‐ ...your heritage,

00:19:27.040 --> 00:19:29.910
your culture.
‐ So, we all grown up on a rice culture.

00:19:29.910 --> 00:19:33.000
Either a rice dish or a rice grain,

00:19:33.500 --> 00:19:35.920
and I look at rice as that connector that

00:19:35.920 --> 00:19:37.170
hopefully connects everybody.

00:19:37.170 --> 00:19:40.130
‐ You think you have
a better quality of life cooking this way?

00:19:40.130 --> 00:19:42.050
‐ I have a better quality
of life cooking this way.

00:19:42.050 --> 00:19:44.760
It's still long days, but it's not like

00:19:44.760 --> 00:19:47.220
we're getting off at
2:00 in the morning, right?

00:19:47.220 --> 00:19:50.020
‐ Alright, man. Well,
what are we gonna make then?

00:19:50.020 --> 00:19:51.100
‐ So, one of my favorite dishes.

00:19:52.140 --> 00:19:54.900
Pineapple black fried rice,
collard greens,

00:19:54.900 --> 00:19:55.860
some steamed salmon,

00:19:55.860 --> 00:19:58.360
and then peri peri sauce from West Africa.

00:19:59.650 --> 00:20:02.450
This is the future.
I mean, just you doing this.

00:20:04.030 --> 00:20:08.330
Black guy using a wok,
at 30 Rock...

00:20:08.330 --> 00:20:10.080
I got... I see...

00:20:10.080 --> 00:20:13.540
flavors from all over the world!
Flavors from all over the world.

00:20:14.420 --> 00:20:16.670
This makes me happy, man.

00:20:17.340 --> 00:20:21.170
I think change for JJ
to fast food or quick service

00:20:21.170 --> 00:20:24.300
is an important one because, clearly,

00:20:24.300 --> 00:20:26.970
he's still making food
in the high‐end fashion.

00:20:26.970 --> 00:20:30.560
It's just now done
in a way where you don't have to spend

00:20:30.560 --> 00:20:34.020
70, 80, $100. You can get a $12 bowl.

00:20:34.020 --> 00:20:38.360
To me, I think that is one of
the most exciting things you can do.

00:20:39.480 --> 00:20:40.940
Beautiful.

00:20:49.030 --> 00:20:50.950
This is so...

00:20:51.660 --> 00:20:53.290
delicious, man. This is...

00:20:54.210 --> 00:20:55.670
fine dining cooking.

00:20:55.670 --> 00:20:57.040
So much depth, so much flavor.

00:20:57.630 --> 00:21:00.210
‐ If you can figure out how to
cook that food from fine dining

00:21:00.210 --> 00:21:02.460
and make it accessible and delicious

00:21:02.460 --> 00:21:04.470
and price point is good,

00:21:04.470 --> 00:21:05.800
then I think it's a home run.

00:21:05.800 --> 00:21:07.390
It doesn't feel different.

00:21:07.390 --> 00:21:09.260
It just is in a different space.

00:21:09.260 --> 00:21:12.100
And I look at that as
a great thing for the future.

00:21:24.280 --> 00:21:25.780
So excited.

00:21:26.200 --> 00:21:29.570
This is a place
that I used to come a lot.

00:21:33.580 --> 00:21:37.210
I don't even know how the hell I found
this place because it wasn't easy to find.

00:21:37.210 --> 00:21:41.040
This is a place that I would
come after I lived in Japan.

00:21:41.040 --> 00:21:44.460
I was like, wow, this is like
I've been transported to Japan.

00:21:47.090 --> 00:21:48.760
Sakagura and restaurants like that

00:21:48.760 --> 00:21:50.800
are very common in Asia.

00:21:50.800 --> 00:21:53.100
And I think that,

00:21:53.100 --> 00:21:57.640
as America develops
a richer food culture

00:21:57.640 --> 00:21:59.940
where it's not so based on real estate,

00:21:59.940 --> 00:22:02.270
you're gonna see more places like Sakagura

00:22:02.270 --> 00:22:04.150
because you're literally walking through

00:22:04.150 --> 00:22:06.070
some building from college,

00:22:06.070 --> 00:22:07.200
and then you go downstairs,
and you're like,

00:22:07.200 --> 00:22:09.110
"whoa, check out this party."
It's awesome.

00:22:09.780 --> 00:22:12.200
And it's cheaper. Everyone says
"real estate, real estate, real estate."

00:22:12.200 --> 00:22:14.450
Yeah, but it doesn't
necessarily have to be

00:22:14.450 --> 00:22:16.370
the most prime A+ location.

00:22:18.040 --> 00:22:19.580
I grew up in northern Virginia,

00:22:19.580 --> 00:22:21.920
and you don't find
restaurants in a basement.

00:22:22.790 --> 00:22:25.130
Right? Yeah.
‐ Of an office building yeah. Yeah.

00:22:25.130 --> 00:22:27.970
There's a term,
"underground economy".

00:22:27.970 --> 00:22:31.890
The idea that you always have, you know,

00:22:31.890 --> 00:22:35.180
subnetworks that exist underneath...

00:22:36.100 --> 00:22:37.810
whatever's happening officially.

00:22:37.810 --> 00:22:40.940
You know, we're talking about basically
experiences of leisure.

00:22:40.940 --> 00:22:42.400
We're talking about

00:22:42.400 --> 00:22:44.650
opportunities to kick back
and relax.

00:22:44.650 --> 00:22:46.610
And I think for people of color,

00:22:46.610 --> 00:22:48.400
and especially for Black people
in this country,

00:22:48.400 --> 00:22:50.820
those experiences have
always been politicized.

00:22:51.240 --> 00:22:54.370
So, if you could have a space
where you could be at ease,

00:22:54.780 --> 00:22:57.700
you could chill the * out, you know?

00:22:57.700 --> 00:23:00.870
You could laugh, joke,

00:23:00.870 --> 00:23:04.000
be celebrated in some way,

00:23:04.000 --> 00:23:06.800
I mean, who wouldn't
wanna keep that underground?

00:23:07.670 --> 00:23:11.220
I mean, the only thing
that I grew up knowing that

00:23:11.220 --> 00:23:13.720
where restaurants aren't supposed
to be was when I found

00:23:13.720 --> 00:23:16.810
Asian restaurants in places where
they were in White places.

00:23:18.390 --> 00:23:19.940
I remember going to DC

00:23:19.940 --> 00:23:21.350
because my dad wanted to take us

00:23:21.350 --> 00:23:23.650
to a fancy Korean barbecue place.

00:23:23.650 --> 00:23:28.070
It was in a fancy part of Washington, DC.
And that was like, "wow.

00:23:28.070 --> 00:23:30.990
That's not supposed to be here. We're su‐‐
You actually thought that?

00:23:30.990 --> 00:23:33.620
‐ Yeah! I remember being like, "We're not
supposed to be here. This is weird."

00:23:34.070 --> 00:23:38.450
I didn't really think about that till
I started to travel, and I was like, wait.

00:23:38.450 --> 00:23:40.370
Outside of America...

00:23:40.370 --> 00:23:42.460
There's something very American that

00:23:42.460 --> 00:23:45.420
we're sort of brought up
to have the restaurants

00:23:45.420 --> 00:23:47.960
that you expect in certain locations.

00:23:47.960 --> 00:23:51.340
‐ Part of what compels me to want to

00:23:51.340 --> 00:23:53.890
deconstruct these belief systems

00:23:53.890 --> 00:23:57.060
that had you as a boy saying,

00:23:57.060 --> 00:24:00.640
"My people don't belong in this place."

00:24:00.640 --> 00:24:02.810
Like, who the * told you that!?

00:24:03.560 --> 00:24:07.070
I grieve for that little Chang!

00:24:07.860 --> 00:24:10.820
Because there's so many other
people experiencing that.

00:24:11.320 --> 00:24:15.240
As people are more knowledgeable
about food and a lot of the old standing

00:24:15.240 --> 00:24:18.910
stupid ways of how we thought
about food disappear,

00:24:20.700 --> 00:24:22.870
maybe one of which is

00:24:22.870 --> 00:24:24.710
where and how you eat.

00:24:34.260 --> 00:24:37.350
I think the definition of
a restaurant has been changing.

00:24:38.050 --> 00:24:40.350
I don't think that it has to be

00:24:40.350 --> 00:24:43.270
within a certain city

00:24:43.270 --> 00:24:47.610
or doesn't have to be within four walls.

00:24:47.610 --> 00:24:49.400
It can be in a house.

00:24:49.400 --> 00:24:52.150
It can be in an Airstream.

00:24:52.150 --> 00:24:55.110
It can be in a cabin in the woods.

00:24:56.070 --> 00:24:58.870
I created a little bed and breakfast.

00:24:58.870 --> 00:25:01.200
It's a little bit of outfitting

00:25:01.200 --> 00:25:03.160
and outdoors experience

00:25:03.160 --> 00:25:07.080
and like a resort
and a restaurant, all in one.

00:25:10.170 --> 00:25:12.960
‐ A restaurant, to me, is a place where

00:25:12.960 --> 00:25:15.340
you're inviting people
in to be comfortable

00:25:16.180 --> 00:25:17.840
and to experience something beautiful.

00:25:19.300 --> 00:25:21.600
It used to be,
"oh, they're in this part of town.

00:25:21.600 --> 00:25:23.390
They're next to this building." It's like,

00:25:23.390 --> 00:25:26.060
that used to matter,
but I've also waited in line in, like,

00:25:26.060 --> 00:25:28.860
some of the worst parts of town
you'd never really wanna go to

00:25:28.860 --> 00:25:29.560
for some good food.

00:25:29.830 --> 00:25:32.880
Doing things like pop‐ups
and ghost kitchens

00:25:32.880 --> 00:25:34.500
and street food,

00:25:34.500 --> 00:25:37.050
that's been really
exciting to see how people

00:25:37.050 --> 00:25:39.760
shift the way we look at dining

00:25:39.760 --> 00:25:42.510
and what a dining experience is.

00:25:43.470 --> 00:25:45.220
I think street food is a restaurant.

00:25:45.220 --> 00:25:47.730
I know a lot of people who are
gonna kill me on that and say,

00:25:47.730 --> 00:25:49.940
"That's not a restaurant!
You have to have hospitality,

00:25:49.940 --> 00:25:52.190
service, create that experience."

00:25:52.190 --> 00:25:54.270
It's a vibe when you're on the street,

00:25:54.270 --> 00:25:57.240
and you're waiting in line.
It's a huge vibe.

00:25:57.240 --> 00:25:59.740
It has to be the right location
for what you're doing.

00:25:59.740 --> 00:26:01.910
‐ I do have a lot of friends
who have invested

00:26:01.910 --> 00:26:04.080
tons of money into opening
a brick‐and‐mortar.

00:26:04.910 --> 00:26:08.160
It's just insane how much
you have to put out there

00:26:08.160 --> 00:26:10.210
before you're able to live that dream.

00:26:10.790 --> 00:26:12.420
Some of the best restaurants in the world

00:26:12.420 --> 00:26:14.840
are places that are in

00:26:14.840 --> 00:26:18.130
the worst locations humanly possible.

00:26:18.130 --> 00:26:21.510
For food to
be more accessible

00:26:21.510 --> 00:26:27.020
and to give people that want
to open up their own spot an opportunity,

00:26:27.020 --> 00:26:29.850
you gotta free up the flow of real estate.

00:26:38.190 --> 00:26:40.700
You've been here before?
I have not
been out here before.

00:26:40.700 --> 00:26:43.490
I've been to his other pop‐up,
but this is crazy.

00:26:43.490 --> 00:26:45.870
Sup, dude? How you doing?
What's going on, man?

00:26:45.870 --> 00:26:47.370
Hey.

00:26:47.370 --> 00:26:49.700
How are you, my friend?
‐ Great to finally meet you, man.

00:26:51.080 --> 00:26:53.370
I just wasn't expecting this setup.
It's amazing,

00:26:53.370 --> 00:26:54.540
and it's here.

00:26:54.540 --> 00:26:57.000
Like...

00:26:57.000 --> 00:26:59.510
this can't happen in
many places in America.

00:27:00.300 --> 00:27:01.760
No, you can't. I mean,

00:27:01.760 --> 00:27:04.510
we're right here, right across
from the recycling plant.

00:27:04.510 --> 00:27:07.600
There's a lot of history,
there's a lot of heritage,
culture here.

00:27:07.600 --> 00:27:09.100
I mean, West Oakland,

00:27:09.100 --> 00:27:11.890
you think about it, it's the last stop
of the great Black migration.

00:27:11.890 --> 00:27:13.900
‐ This is so cool. I love...

00:27:14.310 --> 00:27:17.190
the recycling noise.

00:27:17.190 --> 00:27:19.360
Zero *s. It's amazing.
It's so good.

00:27:19.360 --> 00:27:21.360
The future is...

00:27:22.240 --> 00:27:24.360
restaurants need to be able
to work within cities.

00:27:24.360 --> 00:27:26.990
You can't be like, not every restaurant
can be perched on a cliff

00:27:26.990 --> 00:27:28.450
overlooking the ocean

00:27:28.450 --> 00:27:31.250
with a beautiful view of whatever,
whatever, whatever.
Right, right.

00:27:31.250 --> 00:27:32.750
‐ You gotta serve food

00:27:32.750 --> 00:27:34.250
where the people are.

00:27:34.990 --> 00:27:36.620
Alright, talk to us, man.
So,

00:27:37.370 --> 00:27:39.250
when I first got started in barbecue,

00:27:39.250 --> 00:27:43.120
my focus was
try to put out the best
proteins that I can.

00:27:43.120 --> 00:27:45.880
I wanted to pay tribute to
those that come before me,

00:27:45.880 --> 00:27:47.630
the shoulders of which I stand on.

00:27:47.630 --> 00:27:51.760
I teach my guys to use
their hands and feel and look at it.

00:27:52.380 --> 00:27:55.340
I know it's weird,
I say this all the time, it's like

00:27:55.340 --> 00:27:57.680
you wanna become one
with what you're doing.

00:27:57.680 --> 00:27:59.850
*, man.

00:27:59.850 --> 00:28:02.270
‐ Dave hasn't said
anything for seven minutes.

00:28:04.270 --> 00:28:05.400
‐ This is when it's good, man.

00:28:05.400 --> 00:28:08.020
Why talk when the food is this good, man?
Thanks.

00:28:08.020 --> 00:28:10.530
Great barbecue is
about how much you love it.

00:28:10.530 --> 00:28:12.490
That's it. It's how much you love it,

00:28:12.490 --> 00:28:14.410
and that's why I'm tasting this.
It's like...

00:28:14.410 --> 00:28:17.160
you're tasting love, and I know
that sounds cheesy, man,

00:28:17.160 --> 00:28:20.120
but that's what makes
this brisket so delicious.

00:28:20.490 --> 00:28:23.710
I mean, it's extremely important.
It's more than just us being here,

00:28:23.710 --> 00:28:25.080
operating a restaurant here.

00:28:25.080 --> 00:28:27.330
It's like how
are we impacting our community?

00:28:27.330 --> 00:28:29.630
Are we the great neighbor
within our community?

00:28:29.630 --> 00:28:32.340
Are we actively taking the steps
to be able to empower

00:28:32.340 --> 00:28:35.470
the people that
create this community?

00:28:35.470 --> 00:28:37.470
It's a sense of responsibility.

00:28:38.140 --> 00:28:39.850
If you just don't even taste the food,

00:28:39.850 --> 00:28:43.270
and clearly it's outrageously
good, it's amazing.

00:28:43.770 --> 00:28:46.560
But, if you just,
sort of look at this operation,

00:28:46.560 --> 00:28:49.570
how do you not be inspired by the future?

00:28:56.360 --> 00:28:58.030
We need to

00:28:58.030 --> 00:29:01.660
really lock into what changes were
made because of the pandemic

00:29:01.660 --> 00:29:04.750
and how it can better the industry.

00:29:06.000 --> 00:29:09.040
It's up to all of our individual
responsibilities to take a second look

00:29:09.040 --> 00:29:11.550
at the way we do things
and to make sure that...

00:29:12.340 --> 00:29:14.670
we're not doing it at the expense
of someone else.

00:29:15.380 --> 00:29:17.260
I mean, I'm terrified

00:29:17.260 --> 00:29:19.180
of things going back to status quo.

00:29:19.180 --> 00:29:23.470
It's why I'm fighting so hard
while we have the moment

00:29:23.470 --> 00:29:25.680
to shift people before people forget.

00:29:26.140 --> 00:29:30.520
‐ We have to set aside this idea
of toxic individualism

00:29:30.520 --> 00:29:34.360
and realize that the only way
we can create space for people to try

00:29:34.360 --> 00:29:37.700
things that are exciting and humane

00:29:37.700 --> 00:29:40.910
and that move us forward,
right, as people who create

00:29:40.910 --> 00:29:44.620
or as people who consume,
is if we have room to fail.

00:29:46.080 --> 00:29:49.920
‐ I think people are now
accepting that change is inevitable

00:29:49.920 --> 00:29:53.090
and nothing's gonna look
like how it was once before,

00:29:53.090 --> 00:29:55.510
and that's okay,
and it's actually quite exciting.

00:29:58.830 --> 00:30:00.880
I was not anticipating

00:30:00.880 --> 00:30:03.460
to have hope and light

00:30:03.460 --> 00:30:06.010
in filming this

00:30:06.010 --> 00:30:08.890
because while we may lose the middle tier

00:30:08.890 --> 00:30:10.720
in the traditional sense,

00:30:12.100 --> 00:30:13.680
that's gonna transform
into something else.

00:30:17.480 --> 00:30:20.560
I think the mid‐market restaurant

00:30:20.560 --> 00:30:22.980
will now be the domain of home.

00:30:25.530 --> 00:30:28.240
You get food delivered at home,
you cook at home,

00:30:28.950 --> 00:30:31.620
but I think one of the things
that hopefully will happen

00:30:31.620 --> 00:30:34.120
is you'll be able to serve food

00:30:34.120 --> 00:30:36.080
out of your home as a business.

00:30:40.880 --> 00:30:43.920
I've been doing
food service for about 25 years,

00:30:43.920 --> 00:30:47.130
and when COVID hit last year,

00:30:47.130 --> 00:30:50.220
someone told me, "Hey, you should
do your food. We miss it."

00:30:51.430 --> 00:30:54.140
This is a good way to serve the community

00:30:54.140 --> 00:30:56.520
and have sustainability for ourselves.

00:31:01.860 --> 00:31:03.770
We have quesabirrias.

00:31:04.780 --> 00:31:06.440
Here we have potato tacos.

00:31:06.440 --> 00:31:08.450
Lucy, this looks extreme.

00:31:10.240 --> 00:31:12.120
I mean, come on. This is amazing.

00:31:17.120 --> 00:31:18.330
Holy shit.

00:31:18.330 --> 00:31:20.210
This is stupid.

00:31:20.210 --> 00:31:21.710
I can't believe this food
is being made here.

00:31:21.710 --> 00:31:23.500
I mean, I can, but...

00:31:23.500 --> 00:31:25.300
this is awesome.

00:31:26.260 --> 00:31:27.710
This is extraordinary.

00:31:27.710 --> 00:31:29.170
‐ Thank you.

00:31:29.170 --> 00:31:31.300
‐ If I read about Barra de Pan,

00:31:31.300 --> 00:31:32.970
"How do I make a reservation?"

00:31:32.970 --> 00:31:34.640
Foodnome is an app

00:31:34.640 --> 00:31:37.270
that allows you to order from

00:31:37.270 --> 00:31:38.890
permanent home‐based restaurants

00:31:38.890 --> 00:31:40.940
across southern California.

00:31:40.940 --> 00:31:43.860
We have 100 restaurants
on our platform right now.

00:31:43.860 --> 00:31:45.570
We just got the law approved in Berkeley

00:31:45.570 --> 00:31:47.690
and working on some legislation

00:31:47.690 --> 00:31:50.490
in Washington state and Utah
and like a few other places.

00:31:51.200 --> 00:31:54.530
There's a lot of implications for this
in terms of food deserts.

00:31:54.530 --> 00:31:56.080
Here in Riverside,

00:31:56.080 --> 00:31:58.120
there's McDonald's and an Applebee's.

00:31:58.120 --> 00:31:59.830
On Foodnome,

00:31:59.830 --> 00:32:02.120
there's homemade Haitian food,
northern Chinese food,

00:32:02.120 --> 00:32:04.080
and Guatemalan food.

00:32:04.080 --> 00:32:06.170
And so, all these people
live in the community,

00:32:06.170 --> 00:32:08.920
and they can share their
cultures and traditions.

00:32:08.920 --> 00:32:11.930
‐ It gives us new chefs a way to...

00:32:13.430 --> 00:32:17.060
sort of gauge ourselves,
what we can do and what we're capable of.

00:32:17.390 --> 00:32:20.140
‐ I'm so sick and tired of seeing

00:32:20.140 --> 00:32:22.230
my friends and my peer group

00:32:22.230 --> 00:32:24.690
lose their shirt because...

00:32:24.690 --> 00:32:26.440
they've had to put everything
up to get a loan.

00:32:27.110 --> 00:32:28.900
And the restaurant...

00:32:29.690 --> 00:32:32.070
disappeared because
of a variety of things,

00:32:32.070 --> 00:32:34.280
and especially this year,
so many restaurants closed,

00:32:34.280 --> 00:32:36.030
and they're left with nothing.
‐ Yeah.

00:32:36.030 --> 00:32:39.080
‐ And this is an amazing way
to mitigate a lot of that risk.

00:32:41.250 --> 00:32:44.170
Is that mole?
‐ That mole, it's mole poblano.

00:32:44.170 --> 00:32:47.460
So, that's my mom's recipe.
‐ That is bananas.

00:32:47.460 --> 00:32:49.840
So good. Holy cow.

00:32:49.840 --> 00:32:52.760
‐ So, the mole poblano is my mom's recipe.
I make it all the time.

00:32:52.760 --> 00:32:54.340
My daughters love it.

00:32:54.340 --> 00:32:56.720
‐ I mean, this is one of the best pozoles

00:32:56.720 --> 00:32:58.680
I've ever had.
Oh wow, I'm honored.

00:32:58.680 --> 00:33:00.680
I am really, truly honored.

00:33:01.230 --> 00:33:04.350
We've been on
this crazy journey, all of us,

00:33:04.350 --> 00:33:08.520
during COVID, and the restaurant industry
is very difficult.

00:33:08.520 --> 00:33:10.400
It was difficult before COVID,

00:33:11.280 --> 00:33:14.700
and things are more
murky than ever before,

00:33:14.700 --> 00:33:16.820
and I have been, oftentimes,

00:33:16.820 --> 00:33:18.990
in incredibly dark places,
thinking about this.

00:33:19.450 --> 00:33:21.700
But, no‐‐ no BS,

00:33:21.700 --> 00:33:23.460
this is incredibly inspiring.

00:33:24.210 --> 00:33:25.420
I just...

00:33:25.960 --> 00:33:27.580
I hope that this is the future.

00:33:31.630 --> 00:33:33.550
Pre‐pandemic,
I saw a lot of broken dreams,

00:33:33.550 --> 00:33:36.220
a lot of broken bodies, a lot of...

00:33:37.050 --> 00:33:38.470
empty bank accounts.

00:33:39.260 --> 00:33:42.600
I think for myself,
I'm never going to leave,

00:33:43.100 --> 00:33:45.810
but I'd like to have
a little bit better balance

00:33:45.810 --> 00:33:49.020
in being home for bath time

00:33:49.020 --> 00:33:50.190
and put down my son.

00:33:50.190 --> 00:33:51.820
Those are moments
I'm never gonna have again,

00:33:51.820 --> 00:33:55.740
and honestly, I never
would've done any of this stuff

00:33:55.740 --> 00:33:57.280
if I was just working all the time.

00:33:58.120 --> 00:34:00.870
There's a lot of us that are like
there's more to life.

00:34:01.370 --> 00:34:03.540
There's different ways to run a business,

00:34:03.540 --> 00:34:06.420
it doesn't have to be within
the four walls of a restaurant.

00:34:07.420 --> 00:34:09.170
And that's where I'm actually
incredibly positive

00:34:09.170 --> 00:34:12.420
about what is possible.

00:34:12.420 --> 00:34:13.510
This is a great time.

00:34:13.510 --> 00:34:16.680
If I was younger and in my 20s,

00:34:18.010 --> 00:34:20.470
I'd be like, "this is * amazing."

00:34:20.470 --> 00:34:21.890
You're gonna see so much
innovation.

00:34:21.890 --> 00:34:25.060
I really hope you're gonna see people
take some big swings

00:34:25.060 --> 00:34:26.480
and try to do something new and different.

00:34:28.130 --> 00:34:31.590
but there's more ways of eating
food than there have ever been.

00:34:31.590 --> 00:34:34.090
‐ Are you hopeful? I'm shocked actually.

00:34:35.550 --> 00:34:39.350
‐ It needed to blow up.
It needed to implode, right?

00:34:39.350 --> 00:34:42.100
This year has been incredibly difficult,

00:34:43.560 --> 00:34:45.310
but I am genuinely optimistic

00:34:45.310 --> 00:34:47.230
for what's around the corner.

00:34:47.230 --> 00:34:50.610
Why I am optimistic about it
is I have no * idea.