WEBVTT

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Come on, Emily,
that knot's good.

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It's good.

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Come on.

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Now move to your left.

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* stop panicking.

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I don't feel safe.

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- Doing something that
nobody's ever done before,

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there's no guarantee
that your plan's gonna work.

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- Once you commit,

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there is no turning around.

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- We're entirely removed
from civilization.

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- Look at this one.

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- We know once we get there,
we're on our own.

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- Climbing!

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We've chosen to live a life
that does have risk.

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Oh, my God.

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- One mistake and you're dead.

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- Come on, now.

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- If you harness that fear

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you can do something that
you never thought possible.

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- Whoo! Yeah!

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- Is the pursuit
worth the risk?

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- Kyrgyzstan is one

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of the most mountainous
countries on the planet.

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It is an alpine playground.

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- I think
what makes it unique is

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the quality of the climbing
in such a remote place.

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It's like putting El Capitan
in the middle of nowhere

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in this valley in Kyrgyzstan.

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I like feeling
on that edge of uncertainty.

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It's an adventure.

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We started our expedition
in Reno

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and traveled all the
way across the world

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to Bishkek,
capital city of Kyrgyzstan.

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Kyrgyzstan is one
of those places

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that no one can really find
on a map.

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Fly to Osh,
which is sort of like

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the gateway to the mountains.

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- From there,
I think it's, like,

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a 10-or-so-hour Jeep ride
to a trailhead

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in a town called Uzgurush.

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- And then
that's when you start

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three days of walking
to get to the Ak-Suu Valley

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where we'll eventually set up
base camp

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and try to climb Pik Slesova.

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- The goal of this trip
is to free climb

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this 3,000-foot rock route

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up the northwest face
of Pik Slesova.

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It's a high-level free route

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that's only seen
one team ascent.

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Different people freed
different pitches.

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No one person freed
every pitch.

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That left
this unique opportunity

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for one or both of us
to be the first person

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to free every pitch
on the line to the summit.

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- When Kyrgyzstan was still
part of the Soviet Union,

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Russians would come here,

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and it was
a training ground

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before they went
to the Himalaya.

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It is a testament
to how remote

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and out there this place is.

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You know, we're sort of
coming together

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to combine our--our skills
and our strengths

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on this one objective.

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- I think we're kind of unique

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in that we're
both professional climbers,

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but we're
on almost opposite ends

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of the spectrum of the sport.

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I'm known for walking up
big hills really slowly.

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And she's known for, like,

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the highest-end
gymnastic rock climbing.

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Big wall rock climbing

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is kind of where they start
to come together.

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- It's the adventure

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and the expedition side
of climbing,

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combined with a really hard
big-wall free climb.

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It's definitely gonna be
a test of our relationship.

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But every time
we do a trip like this,

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it's a test
of our relationship.

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We landed in Bishkek
and spent two days there.

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Bishkek really does feel
like this sort of melting pot.

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It's a very modern city,

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and it has
a lot of former Soviet

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and Russian influence.

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But at the same time,

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it feels like a very young city

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that's kind of, like,
just coming into its own.

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The success or failure
of an expedition

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really hinges
on the group of people there.

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The team is really
what it all comes down to.

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It's having the proper people
with the proper experience

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to kind of embark on a journey
that's pretty full-on

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in almost every way.
- Hi. I'm Adrian.

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- Dimitri.
- Emily.

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- Good to meet you, Dimitri.
- Nice to meet you.

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- I am Topo.
Nice to meet you, Dimitri.

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- How are you?
- We are so excited

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to finally be here.

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- I think
the first question is

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yesterday we heard that there
was some--

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there were some conflicts--

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- The border.
- You know, yeah.

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- On the border.
- The border.

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- What's--
what's your opinion?

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- To the west.

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- Okay.

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- No, you're doing great.

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- Better than our Kyrgyz
or Russian.

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- This region does have
instability.

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It was first on my radar

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when Beth Rodden
and Tommy Caldwell

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were kidnapped here
in the year 2000.

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- Caldwell and three others,

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including his girlfriend,
were climbing here

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in the Pamir-Alay
mountain range of Kyrgyzstan.

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They were sleeping
on a ledge 1,000 feet up

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when their ordeal began.

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- Three people on the ground
started shooting at us.

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And we were taken hostage
at gunpoint by two men.

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- They were rebels
from Uzbekistan.

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And they were sort of, like,
battling in that area

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with the Kyrg Army.

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- We were seriously fearing
for our lives.

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We did not know
what was gonna happen to us.

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And escape was always
on the top of our minds.

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- Tommy kind of saved
all of them

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by pushing one of these rebels
off a cliff.

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And then they ran

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and eventually found
a military base.

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- It is so hard
to think of that now

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and to say it aloud,

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but we were afraid
that we would not survive.

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- There is still an ongoing
border disagreement.

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So there are local groups

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continuing to fight
in this area.

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We definitely don't want
to make the situation worse

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in these areas.

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- I think I personally
really trust

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the people who we've hired

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to sort of give us
the go ahead

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that it's Okay
and that it's safe.

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- But your recommendation
or comfort

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is the plan we already have.

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- Yeah.
- No problems.

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both: No problems.
both: Okay.

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- Great.
- Cool.

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You know,
but at the same time,

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you don't know
what's going to happen.

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- To go to your camp here.

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Emily and I have been together
for 9 1/2 years.

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We met on Mount Everest
at 21,500 feet.

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In this case,
having her as a teammate,

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she's obviously

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an unbelievably talented
rock climber.

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This maestro of just knowing

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what to do
with her body on the rock.

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- I discovered climbing
when I was 10 years old.

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It went from me not even
knowing what climbing was

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to, "Oh, this
is what I'm gonna do

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for the rest of my life."

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Around age 16,
I started doing world cups.

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I didn't even have,
like, a team jersey.

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I had to make my own
and, like,

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sew a little American flag
on there.

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I was sort of
in that first wave of people

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who learned how to train
for rock climbing

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instead of just going
rock climbing.

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It was very regimented.
It was very serious.

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And in my later teenage years,

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I struggled
with an eating disorder.

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A lot of young climbers do.

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In order to perform well,

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one of the easiest
and fastest ways to do that

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is to cut weight.

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I remember, like, feeling
exceptionally tired

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all the time, really
kind of falling out of love

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with climbing
and with what I was doing.

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That was sort of, like,
the turning point.

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I just couldn't live
that way anymore.

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My love for climbing
has just sort of changed

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and evolved as I've changed
and evolved as a person.

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Competition climbing was

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very much a part
of my childhood.

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I didn't really explore
the adventure side of climbing

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until a little bit later.

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- She was determined
to conquer El Capitan

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in less than 24 hours.

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- Emily Harrington has reached
the peak of success.

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- I hate to compare,
but it looks

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like Emily is in a slightly
more precarious situation

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than you are.

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- There's still,
you know, sometimes

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a tendency in our culture

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to think, you know,
in athletic pursuits

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there's a different level
of capability.

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And Emily is out there
and pushing

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at the very highest level
of the sport,

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just showing what's possible,

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man or woman.

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- Right as we landed,

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there was the call to prayer.

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Really kind of, like,
grounds you in a place.

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- Today's day one
of two days driving

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to the trailhead in Uzgurush.

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- Pik Slesova is by far

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the most remote big wall
I've ever attempted,

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hands down.

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It's not like Yosemite.

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You don't just drive up,
park your car,

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walk 20 minutes,
start climbing--

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which is why it's so unique.

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- Getting to just pick
our own fruit,

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this is not gonna happen
anymore in the mountains.

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- No, we're not gonna
get this stuff.

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- We should take advantage
of it.

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- Batken definitely felt

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like this transition point.

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We didn't really have
any worries or concerns

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up until that point.

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- Vorukh.

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- It's--
- Oh, Vorukh is Tajikistan.

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- Yeah, Vorukh is Tajikistan.

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That's where the fighting was
last month.

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- Vorukh.
- It's a surrounded enclave.

00:11:30.221 --> 00:11:31.597
- Yeah.

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- The contested border
that we were passing

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really close to after Batken,

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the last flare-up we had
really heard about was in May.

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- More than 11,500 people
have been evacuated

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following a flare-up
in violence

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along its border
with Tajikistan,

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leaving at least
31 Kyrgyzstani citizens dead

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and more than 100 others
injured.

00:11:54.787 --> 00:11:57.248
- Part of
the border conflict here

00:11:57.331 --> 00:11:59.917
has to do with management
of this lake

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and the drought
this part of the country

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has been going through.

00:12:04.922 --> 00:12:09.468
- 2020 was the worst drought
in 25 years in this region.

00:12:11.262 --> 00:12:13.764
Seeing a place that is
threatened by climate change,

00:12:13.847 --> 00:12:16.892
it makes it
that much more real,

00:12:16.976 --> 00:12:18.936
that it's not about
threatening

00:12:19.019 --> 00:12:20.771
our adventures
or our recreation.

00:12:20.854 --> 00:12:22.982
It's about threatening
people's livelihoods

00:12:23.065 --> 00:12:24.817
and people's lives.

00:12:26.735 --> 00:12:29.446
- Wars are gonna be fought
about water.

00:12:29.530 --> 00:12:32.491
And that's happening here now.

00:12:36.578 --> 00:12:37.997
- You know, it's--

00:13:00.436 --> 00:13:03.689
- Some of our crew
got detained,

00:13:03.772 --> 00:13:07.484
and so we're outside
a little military zone

00:13:07.568 --> 00:13:09.111
waiting for them.

00:13:14.408 --> 00:13:15.617
- Welcome back.

00:13:15.701 --> 00:13:17.870
- Yeah, after a couple hours.

00:13:17.953 --> 00:13:20.164
The area we're going
is super close

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to the strongest part
of the conflict.

00:13:22.958 --> 00:13:27.212
The local police were pretty
concerned about our security.

00:13:27.296 --> 00:13:29.340
Yeah, from here I think
we probably--

00:13:29.423 --> 00:13:31.133
we just want to be,
like, in and out.

00:13:31.216 --> 00:13:34.094
You know, like...
both: Low-profile.

00:13:39.516 --> 00:13:41.018
- We knew that it was
going to be difficult

00:13:41.101 --> 00:13:42.227
to travel to this place, right?
- Yup.

00:13:42.311 --> 00:13:46.565
- So now we just need to adapt,
just heads up.

00:13:46.648 --> 00:13:48.567
If you see something weird,
you know,

00:13:48.650 --> 00:13:51.779
everybody will be
just full-on alarm mode.

00:13:51.862 --> 00:13:53.781
Yeah.

00:13:56.075 --> 00:13:57.201
- You're getting
these little tidbits

00:13:57.284 --> 00:13:58.535
and, trying to, like,
read through them all

00:13:58.619 --> 00:14:00.371
and figure out what the, like,
through line is

00:14:00.454 --> 00:14:02.206
and whether it's safe.

00:14:02.289 --> 00:14:05.167
We've heard if you're
on the road after 5:00 p.m.,

00:14:05.250 --> 00:14:07.211
they like to shoot at cars.

00:14:07.294 --> 00:14:08.504
A couple of days ago,

00:14:08.587 --> 00:14:11.715
there was another situation
with two soldiers wounded.

00:14:23.977 --> 00:14:25.396
- Ah, for--
- Customs.

00:14:25.479 --> 00:14:27.272
- Oh.
- Customs is this way?

00:14:27.356 --> 00:14:28.440
Then Uzgurush.

00:14:31.360 --> 00:14:34.113
We just went through
a final military stop,

00:14:34.196 --> 00:14:36.240
and it's just feels
completely different.

00:14:36.323 --> 00:14:37.991
- It's much more rural and--

00:14:38.075 --> 00:14:40.619
- Surrounded by huge peaks.

00:14:42.663 --> 00:14:43.705
I'm starting to think
it's gonna be

00:14:43.789 --> 00:14:45.916
a really hard hike tomorrow.

00:14:47.960 --> 00:14:49.128
- Had a few hiccups
along the way,

00:14:49.211 --> 00:14:52.089
but we've arrived in Uzgurush.

00:14:52.172 --> 00:14:55.259
And we're in the mountains,
and it feels amazing.

00:14:55.342 --> 00:14:57.469
- End of the road,
beginning of the trail,

00:14:57.553 --> 00:15:00.806
and organizing all of our loads
for the next few weeks.

00:15:06.562 --> 00:15:10.482
- Adrian is
a high-altitude climber

00:15:10.566 --> 00:15:12.192
and a mountain guide,

00:15:12.276 --> 00:15:14.361
one of the best in the world.

00:15:17.197 --> 00:15:21.326
- I've summited 8,000-meter
peaks 17 times,

00:15:21.410 --> 00:15:23.620
and I've summited Mount Everest
eight times,

00:15:23.704 --> 00:15:26.957
including once
without supplemental oxygen.

00:15:27.040 --> 00:15:29.585
Man, I can't believe I did it.

00:15:29.668 --> 00:15:31.378
I'm just so gripped right now.

00:15:36.091 --> 00:15:37.843
I was born
in Cheltenham, England.

00:15:37.926 --> 00:15:40.512
My family wasn't
an outdoorsy family.

00:15:40.596 --> 00:15:42.848
When we moved to America,

00:15:42.931 --> 00:15:44.975
I think my parents thought
they needed to do things

00:15:45.058 --> 00:15:48.187
like camping and fishing.

00:15:48.270 --> 00:15:49.813
And we weren't very good
at it.

00:15:51.148 --> 00:15:52.774
Just learned
to get comfortable

00:15:52.858 --> 00:15:55.569
in, like, cold, wet
New England winter.

00:16:07.414 --> 00:16:11.001
There's nowhere
where I feel the focus

00:16:11.084 --> 00:16:13.337
towards a single goal.

00:16:13.420 --> 00:16:15.547
You are not thinking
about anything else

00:16:15.631 --> 00:16:18.008
except not getting killed
on that mountain.

00:16:25.807 --> 00:16:28.310
Today we begin our approach
to the mountain.

00:16:28.393 --> 00:16:30.687
We have 15 miles to cover

00:16:30.771 --> 00:16:33.524
and 7,000 feet
of vertical ascent

00:16:33.607 --> 00:16:36.109
as we go up and down
these passes.

00:16:37.819 --> 00:16:38.904
That's just day one.

00:16:38.987 --> 00:16:40.989
We still have
two more full days

00:16:41.073 --> 00:16:44.201
with that much or more
to get to base camp.

00:16:47.579 --> 00:16:51.208
I've planned for so long
and think I know so much about

00:16:51.291 --> 00:16:54.628
from maps and photos
and Google Earth.

00:16:54.711 --> 00:16:58.382
This is the moment
where reality sets in.

00:16:58.465 --> 00:17:00.008
We're on our own.

00:17:23.740 --> 00:17:26.118
- We are trying to get
over this pass

00:17:26.201 --> 00:17:28.745
before we get struck
by lightning.

00:17:28.829 --> 00:17:30.289
And it seems to be

00:17:30.372 --> 00:17:31.915
coming in fast, but we think

00:17:31.999 --> 00:17:33.917
the safest thing
is up and over.

00:17:34.001 --> 00:17:35.794
So we're gonna find out
if we're right.

00:17:41.675 --> 00:17:43.218
- The difference between
the lightning and thunder

00:17:43.302 --> 00:17:45.178
was not even a second.

00:17:47.764 --> 00:17:50.684
You could feel the static
electricity in the air.

00:18:03.989 --> 00:18:07.075
Still going a little bit,
but it moved on.

00:18:07.159 --> 00:18:08.827
It was a little scary, though.
- It was definitely legit.

00:18:08.910 --> 00:18:10.037
- A little freaked out.

00:18:10.120 --> 00:18:12.122
- Kind of the first reminder
that we're in the mountains.

00:18:17.419 --> 00:18:18.962
We have to anticipate
those storms are gonna come

00:18:19.046 --> 00:18:21.381
every day we're on the wall.

00:18:21.465 --> 00:18:23.216
They're gonna be
a significant challenge

00:18:23.300 --> 00:18:25.677
of how to deal
with them safely.

00:18:30.098 --> 00:18:31.850
Mountain experience is

00:18:31.934 --> 00:18:35.354
they can be so beautiful
and so powerful

00:18:35.437 --> 00:18:39.191
because of that
risk-reward equation.

00:18:40.776 --> 00:18:43.779
It's also something
that I struggle with.

00:18:46.073 --> 00:18:48.200
I was guiding
with a Sherpa partner

00:18:48.283 --> 00:18:49.368
named Nima Sherpa,

00:18:49.451 --> 00:18:52.913
that I'd worked with
since my first trips to Nepal.

00:18:52.996 --> 00:18:58.835
And he caught one crampon on
the pant leg of his other leg

00:18:58.919 --> 00:19:02.798
and fell off the ledge,
like, exactly in front of me--

00:19:02.881 --> 00:19:04.341
what I would estimate to be

00:19:04.424 --> 00:19:06.843
a, you know, 800-foot cliff.

00:19:08.136 --> 00:19:09.054
And it was very real.

00:19:09.137 --> 00:19:12.849
He had a six-year-old son
and a family.

00:19:12.933 --> 00:19:15.560
This brought the whole reality
of this thing

00:19:15.644 --> 00:19:17.562
that I was having
so much fun doing

00:19:17.646 --> 00:19:20.732
into very stark, like,
different terms.

00:19:23.026 --> 00:19:25.404
Whether it's worth it,
why I do it,

00:19:25.487 --> 00:19:26.697
why we're doing it--

00:19:26.780 --> 00:19:29.366
like, it was so clearly
not worth it

00:19:29.449 --> 00:19:32.244
to Nima's family.

00:19:32.327 --> 00:19:35.706
My risk tolerance today
is incredibly different.

00:19:35.789 --> 00:19:38.583
And this was the beginning
of that change.

00:19:50.345 --> 00:19:52.097
- I like my pack.

00:19:52.180 --> 00:19:54.599
- I have full cold.
My nose is clogged.

00:19:54.683 --> 00:19:57.519
My ear's, like, doing
the popping thing.

00:19:57.602 --> 00:20:00.564
- It's mainly just around
my eyes and not in my nose.

00:20:00.647 --> 00:20:02.107
- In your nose yet,
or in your throat?

00:20:02.190 --> 00:20:04.276
- No, nothing.

00:20:04.359 --> 00:20:06.820
- It's definitely not normal
to me.

00:20:06.903 --> 00:20:10.490
- We say high
and angled, like, that way.

00:20:17.914 --> 00:20:20.751
- Pass number four
or five of the trip.

00:20:20.834 --> 00:20:22.794
I can't even keep count.

00:20:22.878 --> 00:20:27.007
That was hard for me today.

00:20:27.549 --> 00:20:29.718
Wow, crazy.
We came from back there.

00:20:32.053 --> 00:20:33.221
I don't think
I've felt that weak

00:20:33.305 --> 00:20:35.849
on a day hiking in decades.

00:20:39.936 --> 00:20:42.439
All the way through that hike,
I was telling myself

00:20:42.522 --> 00:20:44.691
that, like, it felt hard
because we had been traveling

00:20:44.775 --> 00:20:46.818
for a week
and I was still jetlagged.

00:20:48.236 --> 00:20:51.490
I know my body,
and something is not right.

00:21:00.832 --> 00:21:02.501
- Okay.

00:21:04.753 --> 00:21:06.004
- Yeah,
it's definitely positive.

00:21:06.088 --> 00:21:07.047
- It's definitely positive?

00:21:07.130 --> 00:21:08.298
It came out
within three minutes.

00:21:08.381 --> 00:21:09.633
No question.

00:21:09.716 --> 00:21:11.718
- Like, Emily needs
to take one.

00:21:11.802 --> 00:21:13.178
Let's see what it says.

00:21:13.261 --> 00:21:15.013
But you should definitely
take another one.

00:21:15.096 --> 00:21:16.348
- Pretty sure.

00:21:16.431 --> 00:21:18.767
I'm so sorry, Ems.
- It's okay.

00:21:18.850 --> 00:21:20.769
I mean,
it's no one's fault, right?

00:21:20.852 --> 00:21:23.146
We were all negative
a few days ago, right?

00:21:23.230 --> 00:21:24.397
- Yeah.

00:21:24.481 --> 00:21:26.274
- Well, let's hope
it's a false positive.

00:21:27.609 --> 00:21:29.402
- You took another one?
- Yeah.

00:21:32.823 --> 00:21:34.741
- You're still looking
negative, Em.

00:21:36.535 --> 00:21:41.039
Yeah, I'm already positive--
instantly.

00:21:43.708 --> 00:21:45.085
*.

00:21:49.422 --> 00:21:51.132
*.

00:21:57.472 --> 00:21:58.723
I've taken a lot
of these tests.

00:21:58.807 --> 00:22:01.393
I never thought I'd see that.

00:22:01.476 --> 00:22:03.061
- We're all testing.
We're all vaccinated.

00:22:03.144 --> 00:22:09.568
Like, it's just
so unlikely-feeling, but...

00:22:09.651 --> 00:22:11.403
I think we're all
in a little bit of disbelief.

00:22:11.486 --> 00:22:13.405
Like, how could this
possibly happen?

00:22:13.488 --> 00:22:15.448
We took COVID tests
before leaving,

00:22:15.532 --> 00:22:18.159
while we were in Bishkek,
while we were in Osh.

00:22:19.327 --> 00:22:21.162
And then here we were
on the track,

00:22:21.246 --> 00:22:23.582
getting further
and further from hospitals,

00:22:23.665 --> 00:22:25.250
from medical care,
from all these things.

00:22:25.333 --> 00:22:27.335
And now we had one person
who was COVID-positive.

00:22:28.962 --> 00:22:31.339
It all just comes
crashing down.

00:22:32.424 --> 00:22:34.259
I think the first part
of the puzzle

00:22:34.342 --> 00:22:37.429
is making sure the local staff
doesn't get COVID.

00:22:37.512 --> 00:22:38.513
- For sure.

00:22:38.597 --> 00:22:41.558
Like, yeah,
I feel really strongly.

00:22:41.641 --> 00:22:43.935
We have to ensure their safety.

00:22:44.019 --> 00:22:47.272
- Yeah,
this is * out here.

00:22:47.355 --> 00:22:49.065
- It's kind of
my worst nightmare

00:22:49.149 --> 00:22:52.652
to negatively affect
a local community.

00:22:52.736 --> 00:22:54.195
If my case got worse,

00:22:54.279 --> 00:22:55.947
or if other cases happened
in the group,

00:22:56.031 --> 00:22:58.575
we might not be able to get
them to medical care quickly.

00:23:00.994 --> 00:23:03.914
We've both worked
for almost two years

00:23:03.997 --> 00:23:06.625
to get ready for this trip.

00:23:06.708 --> 00:23:08.084
- It took so much effort,

00:23:08.168 --> 00:23:12.255
but it's just the way
the world is right now.

00:23:12.339 --> 00:23:15.008
And it's just
a stupid climbing expedition.

00:23:15.091 --> 00:23:16.259
It's, like,
not that big of a deal.

00:23:16.343 --> 00:23:18.428
But it is to me.

00:23:25.310 --> 00:23:28.104
It just felt so close.

00:23:39.032 --> 00:23:41.660
- Uh, yeah,
maybe a little bit better.

00:23:41.743 --> 00:23:44.579
But sore throat,
difficult to swallow,

00:23:44.663 --> 00:23:46.998
a little cough, congestion.

00:23:47.082 --> 00:23:49.292
My oxygen saturation
had actually dropped

00:23:49.376 --> 00:23:51.461
into the low 80s.

00:23:51.544 --> 00:23:54.130
That's about the same
as in the tent.

00:23:54.214 --> 00:23:56.591
At home, if you're saturations
were less than 90%,

00:23:56.675 --> 00:23:59.177
you'd be in the hospital
on oxygen.

00:23:59.260 --> 00:24:02.430
What was yours?
- 92 to 94.

00:24:02.514 --> 00:24:04.557
It's pretty normal
for this altitude, I think.

00:24:06.518 --> 00:24:09.020
- We made the decision
that the only safe option

00:24:09.104 --> 00:24:11.439
was to go back
to the road head

00:24:11.523 --> 00:24:14.025
and then see if we can
piece together the logistics

00:24:14.109 --> 00:24:15.360
to still make an attempt.

00:24:15.443 --> 00:24:20.991
But right now, an attempt
feels really far away.

00:24:24.828 --> 00:24:27.205
That meant three days
of walking back

00:24:27.288 --> 00:24:30.875
over all the passes we had
crossed on the way in,

00:24:30.959 --> 00:24:34.254
and then taking
a 10-hour drive to Osh,

00:24:34.337 --> 00:24:37.173
where we knew
there was medical resources

00:24:37.257 --> 00:24:39.592
if one of us got even sicker.

00:24:41.928 --> 00:24:43.388
It's gonna be okay.

00:24:43.471 --> 00:24:47.767
- I know, but this
is just such a nightmare.

00:24:49.477 --> 00:24:52.564
I've sort of let go
of climbing at this point.

00:24:52.647 --> 00:24:55.567
Just one step at a time.

00:25:00.488 --> 00:25:03.867
- I have officially lost
my sense of taste--

00:25:03.950 --> 00:25:06.703
just in case the two
positive COVID tests

00:25:06.786 --> 00:25:08.705
and the saturations in the 80s

00:25:08.788 --> 00:25:10.165
didn't tell us anything.

00:25:19.424 --> 00:25:23.219
But I was
just so disappointed.

00:25:23.303 --> 00:25:24.596
What did I do wrong?

00:25:24.679 --> 00:25:27.766
And did I ruin this dream
trip for so many people

00:25:27.849 --> 00:25:29.601
by being careless somewhere?

00:25:35.436 --> 00:25:38.606
- Adrian tested positive
for COVID,

00:25:38.689 --> 00:25:43.027
and then I tested positive,
like, two or three days ago.

00:25:43.110 --> 00:25:45.112
- Good news.
None of our local staff

00:25:45.196 --> 00:25:47.448
has shown any symptoms,

00:25:47.531 --> 00:25:49.450
which is what we were
mostly afraid of,

00:25:49.533 --> 00:25:50.868
since they're unvaccinated.

00:25:50.951 --> 00:25:52.745
So that feels really good.

00:25:52.828 --> 00:25:56.207
I think we have three or four
more days in isolation.

00:25:57.541 --> 00:25:59.877
Thank you.
See you later on.

00:26:01.256 --> 00:26:03.634
It actually took
a surprisingly long time

00:26:03.717 --> 00:26:06.011
for Emily and I
to test negative.

00:26:06.094 --> 00:26:07.638
We kind of came
to the realization

00:26:07.721 --> 00:26:10.808
there was no way time-wise
that we could hike back in

00:26:10.891 --> 00:26:13.852
and still have an opportunity
to climb the mountain.

00:26:13.936 --> 00:26:15.938
- We already tried that.

00:26:16.021 --> 00:26:18.148
We had a bad experience
with COVID.

00:26:18.232 --> 00:26:20.984
We're repeating the same
behavior that we did before.

00:26:21.068 --> 00:26:23.237
So we started looking
at helicopter options.

00:26:23.320 --> 00:26:25.405
And the helicopter options
in Kyrgyzstan

00:26:25.489 --> 00:26:28.659
turned out to be really,
really complicated.

00:26:28.742 --> 00:26:30.661
Just waiting for word

00:26:30.744 --> 00:26:33.163
whether we can take
the Kyrgyzstan helicopter in.

00:26:33.247 --> 00:26:36.124
We got a tiny glimmer
of hope, so...

00:26:36.208 --> 00:26:38.335
- Just hoping
for good news tonight.

00:26:40.796 --> 00:26:42.047
- I know you've been getting
bits and pieces

00:26:42.130 --> 00:26:44.299
of updates from Topo's team

00:26:44.383 --> 00:26:46.385
just as this
continues to unfold.

00:26:46.468 --> 00:26:49.054
Situation right now,
we basically don't have

00:26:49.137 --> 00:26:51.139
a viable helicopter option

00:26:51.223 --> 00:26:53.725
to get everybody back up
into camp.

00:26:53.809 --> 00:26:57.396
Just essentially
put an end to this expedition.

00:26:57.479 --> 00:26:58.981
What we're gonna start doing,

00:26:59.064 --> 00:27:01.191
kind of planning
the exit strategy.

00:27:01.275 --> 00:27:02.693
My plan is to have that

00:27:02.776 --> 00:27:04.319
kind of detailed out
for everybody

00:27:04.403 --> 00:27:06.113
by the time you guys all
wake up tomorrow--

00:27:06.196 --> 00:27:07.656
tomorrow morning.

00:27:23.171 --> 00:27:26.633
- We were packing our bags
into the truck

00:27:26.717 --> 00:27:31.138
when our local guide,
Yusef, came to us and said,

00:27:31.221 --> 00:27:33.390
"We can make the heli work.
We can do it."

00:27:36.518 --> 00:27:38.896
It doesn't seem like
we're gonna go home anymore.

00:27:39.521 --> 00:27:42.524
- Doesn't seem like we're
gonna go home anymore.

00:27:42.608 --> 00:27:44.860
- But we were gonna go home,
like, a half an hour ago.

00:27:46.486 --> 00:27:49.489
- Yeah, it's the restart
to our expedition.

00:27:55.739 --> 00:27:59.785
Yeah, one step closer.
One step closer.

00:27:59.868 --> 00:28:01.995
Yeah, I like that sound.

00:28:07.251 --> 00:28:10.045
We've spent years dreaming
about this trip.

00:28:11.797 --> 00:28:13.799
And then we spent
pretty much a month

00:28:13.882 --> 00:28:16.343
trying to get
to the objective.

00:28:16.426 --> 00:28:17.594
It was exciting.

00:28:17.678 --> 00:28:19.012
It was more exciting
than it would have been

00:28:19.096 --> 00:28:20.973
if everything had gone
as planned.

00:28:24.434 --> 00:28:26.979
It really was unlike anything
I'd ever seen before.

00:28:29.731 --> 00:28:31.483
You know, as a climber
it's sort of, like,

00:28:31.567 --> 00:28:33.652
this idyllic-looking
challenge.

00:28:35.404 --> 00:28:37.531
Look at that.

00:28:37.614 --> 00:28:38.657
- We were surrounded

00:28:38.740 --> 00:28:40.909
by, like, some of the most
beautiful granite towers

00:28:40.993 --> 00:28:42.369
I've ever seen in my life.

00:28:43.787 --> 00:28:45.205
- And that was gonna be
our home

00:28:45.289 --> 00:28:46.707
for the next two weeks.

00:28:46.790 --> 00:28:48.292
It was, like, really hot.

00:28:51.545 --> 00:28:52.963
- We spent the morning
setting up.

00:28:53.046 --> 00:28:54.840
And then me and Em
have just been, like,

00:28:54.923 --> 00:28:56.717
you know, caged up
for so long, we were like,

00:28:56.800 --> 00:28:59.011
"We gotta go and at least find
the base of the wall."

00:29:08.437 --> 00:29:10.647
You see it?
- Oh, holy shit.

00:29:12.524 --> 00:29:15.611
- It's really intimidating,
actually.

00:29:15.694 --> 00:29:17.029
I think we should move up
a little bit,

00:29:17.112 --> 00:29:18.655
and then we can look at a map.
- Yep.

00:29:21.742 --> 00:29:23.577
The way you ascend
a big wall is,

00:29:23.660 --> 00:29:26.788
you climb one rope length,
and you stop.

00:29:26.872 --> 00:29:28.749
And then oftentimes you swap.

00:29:28.832 --> 00:29:31.418
And your belayer climbs
one rope length and stops.

00:29:31.501 --> 00:29:33.128
And then you keep going up
like that.

00:29:35.339 --> 00:29:37.758
- In order to, like, do
a clean ascent,

00:29:37.841 --> 00:29:39.301
each one of those rope lengths

00:29:39.384 --> 00:29:40.385
she has to climb

00:29:40.469 --> 00:29:42.054
without falling.

00:29:42.137 --> 00:29:43.889
If she falls,
she has to go back down

00:29:43.972 --> 00:29:44.890
to the beginning of that pitch

00:29:44.973 --> 00:29:48.352
and do it again
until she doesn't fall.

00:29:48.435 --> 00:29:50.437
- And a lot of times,
that is how you fail.

00:29:50.520 --> 00:29:53.649
You get stuck at a pitch
and you can't complete it.

00:29:53.732 --> 00:29:55.400
You know, sometimes you
continue, and then you say,

00:29:55.484 --> 00:29:58.570
"Well, I freed every pitch
except this one pitch."

00:29:58.654 --> 00:30:01.031
But that wasn't my goal.

00:30:03.659 --> 00:30:06.828
So in my ideal world,
we could free climb

00:30:06.912 --> 00:30:08.956
the route in its entirety.

00:30:09.039 --> 00:30:10.624
And you don't return
to the ground

00:30:10.707 --> 00:30:11.959
until you've reached the top.

00:30:12.042 --> 00:30:14.253
So we're going straight
underneath that wet streak.

00:30:14.336 --> 00:30:16.171
And then it--
you're definitely gonna trend

00:30:16.255 --> 00:30:18.048
over into that corner system
right there.

00:30:18.131 --> 00:30:19.007
And that's where that...

00:30:19.091 --> 00:30:20.634
I had a lot of doubts
on pitch two,

00:30:20.717 --> 00:30:22.636
because it was
this really long pitch.

00:30:22.719 --> 00:30:26.390
And there were lots
of difficult sections.

00:30:26.473 --> 00:30:27.391
- I've only climbed probably

00:30:27.474 --> 00:30:29.101
three or four pitches
of that difficulty,

00:30:29.184 --> 00:30:32.437
and they've all taken me weeks
of working on them.

00:30:32.521 --> 00:30:34.731
So you see these big corners?
- Uh-huh.

00:30:34.815 --> 00:30:38.026
- Then it goes--
- And then it goes left.

00:30:38.110 --> 00:30:39.653
I see the Kyrg Monster.

00:30:41.363 --> 00:30:42.531
For me, the Kyrg Monster

00:30:42.614 --> 00:30:44.783
was one of the hardest parts
of the climb.

00:30:44.866 --> 00:30:47.661
It's named after
this famous pitch

00:30:47.744 --> 00:30:50.956
on El Capitan in Yosemite
called the Monster Offwidth.

00:30:53.041 --> 00:30:55.669
It's this type of climbing
called wide climbing.

00:30:55.752 --> 00:30:58.255
It's something that I've
always struggled with.

00:30:58.338 --> 00:31:00.340
You're literally having
to wedge your body

00:31:00.424 --> 00:31:02.884
inside of it
and inch your way up.

00:31:02.968 --> 00:31:07.139
And it's so, so uncomfortable.

00:31:07.222 --> 00:31:08.640
I've spent 2 1/2 hours

00:31:08.724 --> 00:31:11.685
on the Monster Offwidth
on El Cap.

00:31:11.768 --> 00:31:13.020
It's a necessary evil

00:31:13.103 --> 00:31:15.022
when it comes
to big-wall climbing.

00:31:20.402 --> 00:31:23.030
Oh my God, it feels
so * good to climb!

00:31:24.573 --> 00:31:28.076
- So I think it's probably
a mix of being so psyched

00:31:28.160 --> 00:31:30.203
to be on the rock
after all this.

00:31:30.287 --> 00:31:34.041
But also, it doesn't feel quite
as natural as it usually does.

00:31:34.124 --> 00:31:37.502
- Not 100% sure where to go.

00:31:37.586 --> 00:31:40.547
- This 3,000 feet or so
of climbing above us,

00:31:40.630 --> 00:31:43.008
we're playing
on the first hundred feet.

00:31:47.846 --> 00:31:50.515
- This style of climbing
is called free climbing,

00:31:50.599 --> 00:31:53.685
which means using
our hands and feet to ascend,

00:31:53.769 --> 00:31:56.772
and the rope
only in case of a fall.

00:31:56.855 --> 00:31:58.023
And so that's
not to be confused

00:31:58.106 --> 00:32:00.150
with free soloing,
which is free climbing,

00:32:00.233 --> 00:32:01.568
but without a rope.

00:32:05.489 --> 00:32:07.282
- You all right?
- Yeah.

00:32:10.577 --> 00:32:13.413
There is a risk of bad falls.

00:32:13.497 --> 00:32:16.625
And the consequence
can be pretty high.

00:32:17.834 --> 00:32:20.212
- You're on belay.
We'll just start romping.

00:32:20.295 --> 00:32:22.422
- Okay, we'll hopefully romp.

00:32:22.506 --> 00:32:24.424
I don't like the first pitch,
at least...

00:32:24.508 --> 00:32:26.176
- Well, I love it, so...
- You do?

00:32:26.259 --> 00:32:28.637
- Between the two of us,
we're balanced.

00:32:28.720 --> 00:32:30.597
Yeah, it's like one of
my favorite pitches actually.

00:32:30.680 --> 00:32:32.349
- Really?

00:32:36.978 --> 00:32:41.024
- So injury to the left elbow,
injury to the left leg.

00:32:41.108 --> 00:32:42.901
- I can wiggle my feet.
I can feel everything.

00:32:44.152 --> 00:32:46.238
- So I just got,
like, this text message.

00:32:46.321 --> 00:32:48.782
"Emily fell.
It's not okay."

00:32:48.865 --> 00:32:51.493
It was one of the hardest,
scariest moments of my life.

00:32:51.576 --> 00:32:52.828
And like, I didn't know

00:32:52.911 --> 00:32:56.915
my brain could think that much
in 30 minutes.

00:32:56.998 --> 00:33:00.794
She slipped
and took a 50-foot fall,

00:33:00.877 --> 00:33:04.923
and hit a ledge before
the rope caught her fall.

00:33:05.006 --> 00:33:07.217
No broken bones.
- No broken bones.

00:33:07.300 --> 00:33:09.010
We don't think--no.

00:33:09.094 --> 00:33:10.762
- I think you got
a massive rope burn

00:33:10.846 --> 00:33:11.930
around your neck.

00:33:12.973 --> 00:33:14.641
It was
the most serious accident

00:33:14.724 --> 00:33:16.518
I'd ever had in climbing.

00:33:16.601 --> 00:33:19.896
But I walked away.
I got really lucky.

00:33:21.523 --> 00:33:23.316
It's still in my head.

00:33:25.527 --> 00:33:29.197
But at the same time,
it was my mistake.

00:33:29.281 --> 00:33:30.949
You know, a lot of times,
things aren't in your control,

00:33:31.032 --> 00:33:32.617
like rock fall.

00:33:33.869 --> 00:33:35.328
You can be pretty
traumatized from that

00:33:35.412 --> 00:33:37.330
because you don't know
when it's gonna happen again.

00:33:41.751 --> 00:33:43.962
- What the *?
- What's that noise?

00:33:45.589 --> 00:33:47.340
- Oh, my God.

00:33:49.968 --> 00:33:52.179
- Rock!
- Oh!

00:33:58.810 --> 00:34:00.270
- Rockfall, or loose rock

00:34:00.353 --> 00:34:01.521
on a big vertical
wall like this,

00:34:01.605 --> 00:34:04.107
like, it's one of the ways
that I've come closest

00:34:04.191 --> 00:34:06.318
to getting myself killed
in the mountains.

00:34:08.487 --> 00:34:10.322
When anything comes down

00:34:10.405 --> 00:34:12.866
from, like,
baseball-sized or bigger,

00:34:12.949 --> 00:34:15.869
if it hits you
it will kill you.

00:34:15.952 --> 00:34:18.038
- Oh, there it is.
Look at it.

00:34:19.122 --> 00:34:20.415
I just don't think
this rain is

00:34:20.499 --> 00:34:22.334
the kind
that's gonna go away.

00:34:24.836 --> 00:34:26.046
- Topo, Tico, if you copy,

00:34:26.129 --> 00:34:29.716
we're gonna begin
moving downwards, Emza.

00:34:29.799 --> 00:34:32.219
Wisely done leading today.

00:34:35.972 --> 00:34:39.392
- You kind of have
to just keep forging ahead.

00:34:39.476 --> 00:34:42.437
There are a lot of factors
that are out of our control.

00:34:53.615 --> 00:34:56.952
- I really don't think
it's rope draggy.

00:34:57.035 --> 00:34:59.412
And then remind me--
went pretty far right.

00:35:00.497 --> 00:35:02.082
Rock!

00:35:33.822 --> 00:35:37.450
- I've spent the last
25 years of my life

00:35:37.534 --> 00:35:40.912
trying to avoid
uncontrollable risk.

00:35:43.206 --> 00:35:45.875
There's no escape if we're
in the middle of that slope

00:35:45.959 --> 00:35:48.003
when something falls
out of that gully.

00:35:57.387 --> 00:35:59.472
- It's the process
of analyzing the risk

00:35:59.556 --> 00:36:02.517
and making decisions
around that risk.

00:36:04.019 --> 00:36:07.355
If everything was perfectly
safe and comfortable and easy,

00:36:07.439 --> 00:36:10.317
all of these things
would lose their allure.

00:36:14.195 --> 00:36:16.448
- Me and Emily ultimately
decided we were willing

00:36:16.531 --> 00:36:18.408
to go through
the rockfall potential

00:36:18.491 --> 00:36:20.327
one more time.

00:36:20.410 --> 00:36:22.037
It was worth it for the goal

00:36:22.120 --> 00:36:24.456
that we had worked
so hard for.

00:36:26.416 --> 00:36:27.334
We're gonna take that risk,

00:36:27.417 --> 00:36:28.835
but it doesn't mean
it goes away

00:36:28.919 --> 00:36:30.712
in your brain or your heart.

00:36:33.298 --> 00:36:35.467
- I'm just gonna lay
like this.

00:36:36.343 --> 00:36:37.969
I feel fine when I lay down.

00:36:40.096 --> 00:36:44.142
I woke up with this really
weird, like, vertigo.

00:36:44.225 --> 00:36:46.478
I just am really dizzy
if I move too fast

00:36:46.561 --> 00:36:49.814
or move my head too fast.

00:36:49.898 --> 00:36:51.650
And I can't get rid of it.

00:36:52.734 --> 00:36:54.444
I'm leaning towards
still going,

00:36:54.527 --> 00:36:57.113
just 'cause we only have
this short weather window.

00:36:57.197 --> 00:37:00.241
It's taken a lot
of time and energy

00:37:00.325 --> 00:37:01.951
just to get to this point.

00:37:04.287 --> 00:37:05.705
- I guess we got
good news and bad news.

00:37:05.789 --> 00:37:08.166
The good news is, for the
first morning in six weeks,

00:37:08.249 --> 00:37:09.459
there's not a cloud
in the sky.

00:37:09.542 --> 00:37:11.586
Bad news?
- I don't feel good.

00:37:13.129 --> 00:37:14.756
- Em's still having
some dizziness...

00:37:14.839 --> 00:37:16.383
- I feel really dizzy.
- Stuff going on.

00:37:16.466 --> 00:37:19.719
- I'm trying to fight it
and pretend it's not there.

00:37:19.803 --> 00:37:21.638
Just have to start
walking, maybe.

00:37:21.721 --> 00:37:23.348
- Yeah, let's do it.

00:37:23.431 --> 00:37:24.724
- Okay.

00:37:26.393 --> 00:37:27.852
- Fine with it.

00:37:27.936 --> 00:37:30.563
- It was nerves,
and it was stress.

00:37:32.399 --> 00:37:36.111
It was really just my body
and brain freaking out.

00:37:37.445 --> 00:37:43.535
You know, not trusting myself,
wanting to succeed too badly.

00:37:48.164 --> 00:37:49.749
We were planning on--

00:37:49.833 --> 00:37:51.918
hoping to have
five days on the wall.

00:37:52.001 --> 00:37:56.464
We wanted to spend one night
on a ledge at pitch eight,

00:37:56.548 --> 00:37:59.050
and then set up camp
on the bare ledge up higher.

00:38:02.345 --> 00:38:05.557
- Double back through both.
Just back through.

00:38:05.640 --> 00:38:07.600
Wow, *, it's been
so long to get here.

00:38:07.684 --> 00:38:09.644
I feel like I might puke.
- I know, It's like nerves.

00:38:12.814 --> 00:38:14.607
Yes, Adrian!
Perfect!

00:38:14.691 --> 00:38:19.070
Stand up!
So good!

00:38:19.154 --> 00:38:20.739
Now you step right.

00:38:22.282 --> 00:38:24.242
Nicely done, Adrian.
- *, yeah.

00:38:24.325 --> 00:38:26.786
- Good job.
- One down!

00:38:28.830 --> 00:38:32.125
- I followed and was actually
super stressed and nervous.

00:38:34.919 --> 00:38:37.464
Got through it just fine
and arrived at the belay

00:38:37.547 --> 00:38:38.631
and was like,
"Oh my God, this is gonna be

00:38:38.715 --> 00:38:40.091
"a long climb,

00:38:40.175 --> 00:38:43.887
'cause I am just not
feeling on."

00:38:47.307 --> 00:38:48.600
Just takes so much
mental energy.

00:38:48.683 --> 00:38:50.226
And I'm like,
I don't know if I have it.

00:38:52.270 --> 00:38:54.564
Okay.

00:38:54.647 --> 00:38:56.983
Pitch two is
a 45-meter face climb,

00:38:57.066 --> 00:38:58.818
so there's no cracks.

00:38:58.902 --> 00:39:00.612
The holds are all
really, really tiny.

00:39:00.695 --> 00:39:03.698
- All right now.
Nice and confident.

00:39:11.080 --> 00:39:12.749
* stop panicking.

00:39:13.750 --> 00:39:17.587
It's really intricate
climbing.

00:39:17.670 --> 00:39:18.922
Put your feet
in the right place

00:39:19.005 --> 00:39:21.341
at exactly the right time
in the right order.

00:39:26.221 --> 00:39:28.515
Everything has to be
pretty perfect.

00:39:33.436 --> 00:39:34.813
I'm nervous.

00:40:02.340 --> 00:40:04.092
Come on, Emily.

00:40:04.175 --> 00:40:06.386
Now move to your left.

00:40:06.469 --> 00:40:08.429
Relax, you can do it.

00:40:23.820 --> 00:40:26.072
- Yeah!
- Oh, my God.

00:40:26.155 --> 00:40:29.492
That's * up.
- Good work, Em.

00:40:29.576 --> 00:40:30.952
- I made it
through The Crux,

00:40:31.035 --> 00:40:32.745
and there was this relief.

00:40:32.829 --> 00:40:34.914
I think I can do this.

00:40:34.998 --> 00:40:37.292
Off belay!

00:40:38.501 --> 00:40:42.255
- * yes.
- Oh, man. That was a fight.

00:40:42.338 --> 00:40:45.300
Holy shit.

00:40:46.801 --> 00:40:49.304
And then, you know, the fear
and anxiety sets in,

00:40:49.387 --> 00:40:51.347
because you look up,
and you're like, "Oh, wow.

00:40:51.431 --> 00:40:54.809
You know, I have another
2,800 feet of climbing left."

00:40:57.478 --> 00:40:59.189
- I knew that pitch
was gonna be

00:40:59.272 --> 00:41:01.399
very difficult
for me to ascend,

00:41:01.482 --> 00:41:03.234
which I kind of knew
coming in,

00:41:03.318 --> 00:41:05.361
but you never know
until you really get on it.

00:41:11.117 --> 00:41:15.538
God.

00:41:19.876 --> 00:41:21.502
It was too hard for me.

00:41:21.586 --> 00:41:22.795
There was no way
we were gonna risk

00:41:22.879 --> 00:41:24.422
missing this weather window.

00:41:26.090 --> 00:41:27.550
The only way Em
was gonna have a shot

00:41:27.634 --> 00:41:29.302
was if I backed off
and sacrificed

00:41:29.385 --> 00:41:31.512
a little bit of my time.

00:41:32.889 --> 00:41:35.767
We've got
a big mountain to climb.

00:41:35.850 --> 00:41:38.436
I don't even know
if I can do it from there.

00:41:38.519 --> 00:41:40.772
- I don't think
you should be that bummed.

00:41:40.855 --> 00:41:42.774
I thought it was * hard.

00:41:44.192 --> 00:41:46.110
I wanted every pitch still.

00:41:46.194 --> 00:41:47.820
But if I didn't send a pitch,

00:41:47.904 --> 00:41:49.864
I was willing to let it go
to make sure

00:41:49.948 --> 00:41:51.407
the team could keep moving.

00:41:53.534 --> 00:41:56.037
- In a way, he was doing
what he does best,

00:41:56.120 --> 00:41:58.331
which is helping other people

00:41:58.414 --> 00:42:01.167
be successful
in the mountains.

00:42:01.250 --> 00:42:03.127
- Oh, I'm so happy for you.

00:42:03.211 --> 00:42:04.545
That was amazing.
- Thank you.

00:42:04.629 --> 00:42:06.172
- So proud of you.

00:42:07.674 --> 00:42:09.258
- I was in a mode
at that point.

00:42:09.342 --> 00:42:12.720
I was moving well,
I was climbing well.

00:42:12.804 --> 00:42:15.348
I was still very much trying
to not get ahead of myself.

00:42:18.393 --> 00:42:19.978
- Do it. Do it.

00:42:20.061 --> 00:42:21.980
- The pitches
are just so long.

00:42:26.567 --> 00:42:27.902
If I'm feeling tired

00:42:27.986 --> 00:42:31.030
or if I'm starting to feel
doubt creep in,

00:42:31.114 --> 00:42:34.909
I try to block everything out
except for one word,

00:42:34.993 --> 00:42:36.369
and that word is "yes."

00:42:38.079 --> 00:42:40.206
I say that word in my head.

00:42:56.222 --> 00:42:58.850
It helps me, like,
hold on tighter.

00:42:58.933 --> 00:43:00.727
I don't know how else
to describe that,

00:43:00.810 --> 00:43:03.021
but I've been doing it
since I was 12 years old.

00:43:03.104 --> 00:43:04.814
I just call it
"the yes factor."

00:43:47.815 --> 00:43:49.692
I'm scared.

00:43:51.694 --> 00:43:55.531
Okay.
Looks like we're done.

00:43:57.617 --> 00:43:59.786
And then the final pitch
of that day

00:43:59.869 --> 00:44:03.623
was pitch seven,
the Kyrg Monster.

00:44:03.706 --> 00:44:05.583
All right, you're climbing.

00:44:07.627 --> 00:44:10.838
I had been thinking
about that pitch for days.

00:44:29.732 --> 00:44:31.818
- Take?

00:44:31.901 --> 00:44:33.486
Is that what you said?
- Yeah.

00:44:33.569 --> 00:44:35.363
- Gotcha.

00:44:38.116 --> 00:44:40.243
I think I got 15 feet

00:44:40.326 --> 00:44:41.661
before I was
completely exhausted

00:44:41.744 --> 00:44:43.079
and like,
"This isn't working."

00:44:44.622 --> 00:44:45.873
Can you lower?

00:44:45.957 --> 00:44:47.542
- You don't want
to think about it?

00:44:47.625 --> 00:44:49.418
- I just couldn't climb it.

00:44:49.502 --> 00:44:50.670
- You were climbing it.

00:44:50.753 --> 00:44:52.046
- No, I was barely moving.

00:44:52.130 --> 00:44:54.882
Like, you see how far I got?
- Yeah, no, of course I did.

00:44:57.051 --> 00:44:58.302
- It's one of those moments

00:44:58.386 --> 00:45:01.139
where the doubt starts
to creep in.

00:45:01.222 --> 00:45:03.808
What if I am not gonna get
through it?

00:45:06.811 --> 00:45:08.688
It's still so hard.

00:45:08.771 --> 00:45:10.898
And it's not gonna get
any easier.

00:45:10.982 --> 00:45:13.526
So I just needed
to grit my teeth and do it.

00:45:23.619 --> 00:45:25.121
- Come on.

00:45:27.248 --> 00:45:28.708
Come on.

00:45:28.791 --> 00:45:31.252
- I don't feel safe.
- You're safe. I promise.

00:45:35.131 --> 00:45:37.216
You're safe.

00:45:37.300 --> 00:45:38.384
Do what you do.

00:45:38.468 --> 00:45:43.181
Get it back and clip
or place your stake,

00:45:43.264 --> 00:45:46.517
whichever one feels easier.

00:45:46.601 --> 00:45:48.978
- Either one.
- Come on, Em.

00:45:52.273 --> 00:45:53.691
- I got through that section

00:45:53.774 --> 00:45:57.361
and became really scared
that I was gonna fall.

00:45:57.445 --> 00:45:59.071
And I didn't know
if I had the energy

00:45:59.155 --> 00:46:01.532
or strength to repeat it.

00:46:18.007 --> 00:46:23.346
- Come on, Em.
Come on, come on.

00:46:27.975 --> 00:46:29.685
You got it.

00:46:34.398 --> 00:46:35.691
- I was really afraid

00:46:35.775 --> 00:46:37.568
that I was gonna blow it
on the final, final move

00:46:37.652 --> 00:46:40.696
of this pitch that
I'd spent so much energy on.

00:46:40.780 --> 00:46:43.324
But I couldn't really reach
the ending hold.

00:47:07.515 --> 00:47:11.143
- Emily, trust yourself!

00:47:14.689 --> 00:47:17.900
* yeah!

00:47:17.984 --> 00:47:20.152
Whoo!

00:47:20.611 --> 00:47:22.989
- * yeah!
- Please don't break.

00:47:25.700 --> 00:47:28.202
I'm so psyched.
I tried so hard.

00:47:28.286 --> 00:47:29.829
Oh, my God.

00:47:29.912 --> 00:47:33.374
And I knew that I didn't have
another try in me.

00:47:33.457 --> 00:47:38.170
Oh, my God.

00:47:38.254 --> 00:47:40.881
Oh, that was insane.

00:47:43.759 --> 00:47:45.386
Jesus.

00:47:45.469 --> 00:47:47.179
You know, that could have
resulted in a failure

00:47:47.263 --> 00:47:51.142
on free climbing
the entire wall.

00:47:51.225 --> 00:47:54.979
And having that under my belt
gave me a lot of confidence.

00:48:01.068 --> 00:48:04.238
- You good?
- Yeah.

00:48:04.322 --> 00:48:06.157
We're gonna set up camp
right here.

00:48:06.240 --> 00:48:09.201
I'm tired and hungry and cold.

00:48:09.285 --> 00:48:10.870
We've got a lot of work to do,

00:48:10.953 --> 00:48:12.413
but it's kind of
just part of it.

00:48:18.294 --> 00:48:19.712
Whoa.

00:48:26.510 --> 00:48:29.555
There's a really unique
kind of fear that you have

00:48:29.638 --> 00:48:33.017
when you realize that you're
capable of something--

00:48:33.100 --> 00:48:34.518
- I might not move again.
- It's pretty nice.

00:48:34.602 --> 00:48:35.519
- You should try it.

00:48:35.603 --> 00:48:37.480
You haven't laid down here.
- I haven't.

00:48:37.563 --> 00:48:38.647
I am laying down.
- Oh.

00:48:38.731 --> 00:48:41.317
- The desire to achieve it
is that much stronger.

00:48:52.995 --> 00:48:55.414
I slept really good
in the ledges.

00:48:55.498 --> 00:48:57.583
Maybe the best night of sleep
we've had so far.

00:48:57.666 --> 00:49:00.461
- In five weeks or six weeks.
- Which is awesome.

00:49:00.544 --> 00:49:01.712
Today, we're just
hoping to make it

00:49:01.796 --> 00:49:04.799
up two pitches
with all our stuff

00:49:04.882 --> 00:49:07.551
to establish
kind of our final camp.

00:49:11.972 --> 00:49:13.432
- Once you're getting
that high off the ground,

00:49:13.516 --> 00:49:15.768
you're also adding
all these risks.

00:49:15.851 --> 00:49:17.561
It has rockfall,
it has weather,

00:49:17.645 --> 00:49:19.939
it has all these
additional facets.

00:49:26.362 --> 00:49:29.073
- Rock!
- Ugh.

00:49:30.825 --> 00:49:32.535
Let me know if you move
much further left.

00:49:32.618 --> 00:49:34.328
- Okay.

00:49:34.412 --> 00:49:36.914
- Think I'm in a good position.

00:49:36.997 --> 00:49:38.749
- Ropes don't get cut
very often,

00:49:38.833 --> 00:49:40.459
but that's--pretty much
the only way

00:49:40.543 --> 00:49:42.002
is through rockfall.

00:49:42.086 --> 00:49:46.257
I lost a friend last year.

00:49:46.340 --> 00:49:49.552
He was, like, standing on
a ledge clipped into a bolt,

00:49:49.635 --> 00:49:51.762
and the ledge gave out
and cut his rope.

00:49:54.014 --> 00:49:55.724
There was literally nothing

00:49:55.808 --> 00:49:58.227
that could have been done
differently.

00:50:02.731 --> 00:50:04.567
And there are things
that happen

00:50:04.650 --> 00:50:07.236
that take people away from us,

00:50:07.319 --> 00:50:10.114
and that could happen to us.

00:50:10.197 --> 00:50:13.951
And it's part of the life
that we choose to live.

00:50:15.911 --> 00:50:19.748
We've all come to accept that
in some way.

00:50:54.575 --> 00:50:57.036
- So we're at pitch 11 ledge.

00:50:57.119 --> 00:51:00.289
I'd say we're now
officially halfway up.

00:51:00.372 --> 00:51:01.832
- We set up camp.

00:51:01.916 --> 00:51:06.212
We got here with plenty
of time to kind of organize

00:51:06.295 --> 00:51:08.047
and make it feel like home.

00:51:08.130 --> 00:51:10.549
That said, it still does
drop off significantly

00:51:10.633 --> 00:51:12.384
all the way to the ground.
I'm staying tied in.

00:51:12.468 --> 00:51:14.887
Just to be clear.

00:51:20.100 --> 00:51:22.811
Everything's going as planned,
which is weird.

00:51:22.895 --> 00:51:24.522
I mean, every day
we've been here,

00:51:24.605 --> 00:51:26.023
except the days
we were on the wall,

00:51:26.106 --> 00:51:28.192
it's rained every day.

00:51:28.275 --> 00:51:30.194
And so we feel pretty lucky.

00:51:43.791 --> 00:51:44.959
The ledge
that we were sleeping on

00:51:45.042 --> 00:51:48.003
basically was just sitting
under these teetering blocks

00:51:48.087 --> 00:51:49.380
that was this next pitch.

00:51:49.463 --> 00:51:52.091
- Good work, Emily!

00:51:52.174 --> 00:51:54.593
- *.
I'm right under it.

00:51:56.345 --> 00:51:58.222
I was definitely, like,
knocking on things,

00:51:58.305 --> 00:52:00.558
listening for hollow noises,

00:52:02.643 --> 00:52:04.228
making sure that it was
in solid rock

00:52:04.311 --> 00:52:05.896
and not the loose rock.

00:52:10.568 --> 00:52:12.778
So a lot of times
in free climbing,

00:52:12.861 --> 00:52:16.407
in order to find
a passage up the wall,

00:52:16.490 --> 00:52:18.659
it entails having
to climb down.

00:52:24.665 --> 00:52:26.417
You're climbing down,
and your feet feel the holds

00:52:26.500 --> 00:52:28.002
before your hands feel
the holds.

00:52:30.713 --> 00:52:32.298
It's just
a different movement,

00:52:32.381 --> 00:52:34.300
and it's
a different kind of trust.

00:52:37.928 --> 00:52:39.305
- Another route
Emily had done,

00:52:39.388 --> 00:52:40.764
called Golden Gate
in Yosemite,

00:52:40.848 --> 00:52:44.143
we spent two days stuck
on the down climb

00:52:44.226 --> 00:52:46.312
while she tried
to work it out.

00:53:14.131 --> 00:53:16.800
Whoo!

00:53:16.884 --> 00:53:19.678
Ha!

00:53:19.762 --> 00:53:21.639
Oh, I'm psyched.

00:53:23.223 --> 00:53:24.308
After the down climb,

00:53:24.391 --> 00:53:25.809
the route changes character
dramatically.

00:53:25.893 --> 00:53:28.228
You feel so high up.

00:53:29.271 --> 00:53:31.732
Come on, Emily.
That knot's good.

00:53:31.815 --> 00:53:33.150
It's good.

00:54:00.094 --> 00:54:02.388
The rock climbing is so good,

00:54:02.471 --> 00:54:05.683
kind of what you want
in a granite pitch.

00:54:05.766 --> 00:54:07.226
And it just so happened to be

00:54:07.309 --> 00:54:09.853
2,500 feet off the ground
in Kyrgyzstan.

00:54:33.502 --> 00:54:35.421
We are four pitches
from the summit right now.

00:54:35.504 --> 00:54:36.630
But it's a little late.

00:54:36.714 --> 00:54:40.926
We're gonna go down
and spend one more night.

00:54:41.009 --> 00:54:43.137
We had this really
big, nice ledge

00:54:43.220 --> 00:54:45.222
that we'd set up camp at.

00:54:45.305 --> 00:54:47.725
We repelled back down
and spent that night

00:54:47.808 --> 00:54:50.561
and then were able to go back
up to our high point

00:54:50.644 --> 00:54:52.396
the next day.

00:54:52.479 --> 00:54:53.564
I'm really excited
to see the summit.

00:54:53.647 --> 00:54:54.565
I feel
like we've been dreaming

00:54:54.648 --> 00:54:57.276
about climbing this wall
for a while now.

00:54:57.359 --> 00:54:59.862
And so being on the top
is gonna be pretty special.

00:55:08.245 --> 00:55:11.206
- Summit day.

00:55:11.999 --> 00:55:14.960
Here on this corner, on this
arête, you just look out

00:55:15.043 --> 00:55:17.963
and we can see base camp
all the way down there.

00:55:27.723 --> 00:55:30.267
- We were
at the high point yesterday,

00:55:30.350 --> 00:55:32.561
and it's my turn this morning.

00:55:32.644 --> 00:55:34.229
- Go get it.

00:55:59.421 --> 00:56:01.256
- And we were just cruising.

00:56:01.340 --> 00:56:02.341
But at the same time,

00:56:02.424 --> 00:56:03.842
the clouds were building
up the valley.

00:56:03.926 --> 00:56:06.720
And they were building fast.

00:56:06.804 --> 00:56:08.597
There is no doubt
this weather is coming in,

00:56:08.680 --> 00:56:10.933
and it's gonna be
an issue for us.

00:56:11.016 --> 00:56:12.559
Hey, Em.
- What?

00:56:12.643 --> 00:56:13.852
We're getting pretty late.

00:56:13.936 --> 00:56:16.522
You're gonna climb through.

00:56:16.605 --> 00:56:19.316
Hopefully, Emily can make up
a little bit of time,

00:56:19.399 --> 00:56:21.401
since she's obviously
a stronger climber.

00:56:27.074 --> 00:56:29.034
- I was getting
a little bit stressed,

00:56:29.117 --> 00:56:31.954
feeling like we were gonna get
rained out and snowed on.

00:56:32.037 --> 00:56:34.373
It hasn't looked this way
the last four days.

00:56:34.456 --> 00:56:36.208
So we're definitely keeping
a heads up

00:56:36.291 --> 00:56:39.044
and trying to move
relatively quickly.

00:56:41.630 --> 00:56:42.756
Emily actually
had been sitting

00:56:42.840 --> 00:56:44.216
in that belay thinking,

00:56:44.299 --> 00:56:45.884
"Adrian's gonna say
it's too dangerous

00:56:45.968 --> 00:56:47.970
and we have to go down."

00:56:48.053 --> 00:56:49.847
I get up there.
I'm like, "Okay, I'm going."

00:56:49.930 --> 00:56:52.099
And she just burst out crying.

00:56:52.182 --> 00:56:53.517
"What if we can't summit?"

00:56:53.600 --> 00:56:55.727
I'm like,
"We're going to the summit!"

00:57:00.816 --> 00:57:03.944
- His calm nature
is very much a part

00:57:04.027 --> 00:57:06.738
of his background
as a mountain guide.

00:57:06.822 --> 00:57:09.575
That's, again, where our
partnership shines in a way.

00:57:17.082 --> 00:57:18.709
Holy shit.

00:57:18.792 --> 00:57:21.378
- Oh, my God.

00:57:21.461 --> 00:57:24.256
- Dude!
- Whoo!

00:57:24.339 --> 00:57:26.967
- Yeah! Ha-ha!

00:57:28.010 --> 00:57:31.555
Holy shit!

00:57:31.638 --> 00:57:33.390
I'm so proud of you.

00:57:41.982 --> 00:57:43.775
You're the first human being

00:57:43.859 --> 00:57:45.944
to free every pitch
of that route.

00:57:46.028 --> 00:57:47.613
How does that feel?

00:57:47.696 --> 00:57:49.156
- I don't know.

00:57:49.239 --> 00:57:51.366
I'll be--
ask me when I'm down.

00:58:15.390 --> 00:58:16.600
- My favorite moment is

00:58:16.683 --> 00:58:18.101
when everyone's safe
in base camp.

00:58:18.185 --> 00:58:19.770
And it's so close now.

00:58:19.853 --> 00:58:21.229
And like, I can feel it.
Wow.

00:58:21.313 --> 00:58:22.648
- Oof.

00:58:25.275 --> 00:58:27.945
Okay, let's get out of here.

00:58:28.028 --> 00:58:29.404
Yeah.

00:58:29.488 --> 00:58:30.572
Just to actually get

00:58:30.656 --> 00:58:32.908
to celebrate this, like,
wild accomplishment

00:58:32.991 --> 00:58:34.785
for Emily
and for all the team.

00:58:36.411 --> 00:58:39.039
Yeah!

00:58:39.122 --> 00:58:40.499
Ha-ha!

00:58:40.582 --> 00:58:42.000
- Whoo!
- Hi, guys.

00:58:45.671 --> 00:58:50.050
I am truly happiest when
I've gone and done something

00:58:50.133 --> 00:58:53.595
that feels full,

00:58:53.679 --> 00:58:57.641
and sort of took me to all
the spectrums of emotion,

00:58:57.724 --> 00:59:02.813
where I've been scared,
elated, uncomfortable,

00:59:02.896 --> 00:59:05.357
or felt like I'm gonna fail.

00:59:05.440 --> 00:59:06.942
Had to try really hard.

00:59:07.025 --> 00:59:09.653
Whoo!

00:59:09.736 --> 00:59:12.364
Honestly, it just feels
that much more rewarding.

00:59:16.576 --> 00:59:21.540
I hope that that mentality
of exploration and curiosity

00:59:21.623 --> 00:59:25.002
and adventure inspires
other people

00:59:25.085 --> 00:59:27.045
to kind of find their own--

00:59:27.129 --> 00:59:28.380
find their own form of that.